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Dalelama
08-20-2005, 09:52 PM
I ran Kenny's boat one last time this morning........ then drug it's ass back out to the hangar at the airport to commence with some butchery. Took about 2 hours to disconnect & label all wiring, remove windshield, and remove caulk and screws, before pulling the whole assembly off the boat. Those little screws at the top were a bitch... the side screws were accessable by crawling up under the bow and making a u-turn around the sides to get at 'em......

Tomarrow we'll remove the panel, gauges, switches and hardware, trim the remaining glass... form up a mold for the front, pour in gel-coat from the backside, layup some glass and set the plywood "patches" to solidify the deal.
Another layer of glass, remove front mold, some fine tuning with some sand paper, and we'll be ready to cut in the 10 new Livorsi Monster gauges!
A shot of interior matching Awl-grip will eliminate the need for any plastic panels on this dash......
Add some sporty Carling switches, breakers and a trick dimmer and that should do it. I guess we'll toss in a new Livorsi throttle assembly and wheel for good measure......

Hope to be done by next weekend....... ish.........

I'll post pics as soon as I can find the damn digital camera.............

MOP
08-21-2005, 09:08 AM
Man you guys will be some busy, will be great seeing the results.

Phil

gcarter
08-21-2005, 09:59 AM
Hi Dale, I read your PM to me. It's an interesting project.
However, the Carling switches and circuit breakers aren't intended for such thick panels (I think). So how are you going to mount those items w/o a panel.
Even all the new Classics use a panel for switches and circuit breakers, don't they?

MOP
08-21-2005, 10:55 AM
George I have run into the thick panel thing many times, they can be relieved from the back side using a plunge router. If the panel is on the flexi side route for each individual item to maintain strength.

Phil

Dalelama
08-21-2005, 08:12 PM
George,

You dont build up w/ plywood in the switch area! Just layup enough glass for strength, but not depth. MOP's suggestion of routing out the backside was an option considered, but a real mess, if it can be avoided.

Stripped everything off the dash today.... ground out the raised portions, and saved a small piece at the bottom left to keep things straight. Unbelievable how sturdy it still is... no flexing at all! I was suprised to see the wood in the layup was SOLID pine! Figured they woulda used some sort of laminate?

Set the mold up... decided to use some ultra thin alumimum sheet, backed with a board for added ridgidty. The metal bends to make the inside radius removed along with the raised portions of the dash.

Thinking about using this work as a plug for a mold, if any one is interested in going to a "Flat Dash" in thier Minx too.

Tim Morris
08-22-2005, 12:09 PM
Hey Dale,

Find the camera please!