Motor oil

[jdp_509]

I have a 350 mag in my 22ZX and was wondering how important is it to use mercury oil or can I a good quality motor oil from a auto parts store ?

[Lenny]

I am using Valvoline Racing 40W in my motor. It comes highly recommended by others.

This is a HUGE topic :D

[Morgan's Cloud]

"HUGE topic" is right !

If you spend any time on that 'other site' you'll have noticed that there's this rather 'odd ball' who is obsessed with this topic... he starts endless threads on the subject and they go on for weeks and weeks.
Credit due though .. he appears to do a lot of research and digging for information.

From what I have read there I'm doing the absolute right thing running the Merc 25/40. For dino oil it's the next best thing to synthetics because of the additive package. Besides .. untill Merc 'makes' their own synthetic this is the only thing they warranty their engines with.

Fine with me.. because synthetics here start at $12 a quart and the Merc is a paltry $4.75 :rlol:

Steve

[Sam]

Ditto on what Lenny said !

Sam :cool:

[txtaz]

Here we go...Hold on... :p

AMZOIL synthetic 25/40 :biggrin.: :biggrin.:
Wes

[Cuda]

I thought Merc was making a synthetic now.

[roadtrip se]

hit the "SEARCH" button, enter "OIL" and you will find a vast array of responses, disertations, and opinions on this topic.

I'm with Lenny, 40W Valvoline Racing.

RT

[Rootsy]

hit the "SEARCH" button, enter "OIL" and you will find a vast array of responses, disertations, and opinions on this topic.

I'm with Lenny, 40W Valvoline Racing.

RT

same here but a bit lighter at 30W

[Cuda]

I just changed the oil in my 468's in my Formula with the last of the Moble 1 Redcap.

[smoothie]

Mobil 1 gold cap 15W-50...it dropped my oil temp 30 deg when running above 4000 rpm,,,hmmm maybe thats why 70% of nascar uses it :checkered

[Cuda]

I've read the Gold Cap doesn't have the ZDDP which is some kind of additive, that the Red Cap had. It was taken out due to environmental laws. You can put Valvolene Additive in with the Gold Cap to put the ZDDP back in.

[Rootsy]

Mobil 1 gold cap 15W-50...it dropped my oil temp 30 deg when running above 4000 rpm,,,hmmm maybe thats why 70% of nascar uses it :checkered

i do have 10 qts of M1 15-50 on the shelf... maybe i need to "experiment" :)

[Cuda]

I bought a jug of Rotella synthetic that I was going to put in the Minx, but I was advised against using it as it is too thin. It was cheap at $13 for five quarts. I guess I'll use it in my four wheelers instead.

[Cuda]

The oil nut on Oso says that Mobile 1 V Twin is the best to use, but it's pretty much overkill unless you are running HUGE hp engines. It's eight dollars a quart at Wal Mart. $40 per oil change may sound like a lot, until you pay 6 grand or so for a new engine. :(

[CHACHI]

"HUGE topic" is right !

If you spend any time on that 'other site' you'll have noticed that there's this rather 'odd ball' who is obsessed with this topic... he starts endless threads on the subject and they go on for weeks and weeks.
Credit due though .. he appears to do a lot of research and digging for information.

From what I have read there I'm doing the absolute right thing running the Merc 25/40. For dino oil it's the next best thing to synthetics because of the additive package. Besides .. untill Merc 'makes' their own synthetic this is the only thing they warranty their engines with.

Fine with me.. because synthetics here start at $12 a quart and the Merc is a paltry $4.75 :rlol:

SteveSteve, First let me say that synthetics have nothing to do with additive packages. Additives are just that, an addition to the base stock (be it synthetic or petroleum) that the oil blender chooses to use. One of the biggest issues with automotive lubricants is the lowering of the levels of the anti-wear additive ZDDP, (it's a very long word, so I'll call it just ZDDP). The additive is a zinc/phosphrous chemistry that the auto manufacters are limiting because of the effect zinc has on cats in the emission control system. Zinc is also a anti-oxidant which helps prevent your oil from oxidizing or getting "thick" with age or too much heat. Most modern day auto oils have zinc levels around 1000 parts per million. Another issue in lubricants today is the word "synthetic". A lot of lubricants are out on the market today being touted as synthetics, when in fact the base stock that is used is nothing more than a highly refined petroleum product claiming "synthetic properties". This petroulem base stock is known as a Group 3 base stock. Synthesied base stocks are known as Group 4 or 5. This information does not have to be on the label. Final note... Mercury recommends a 25-40 because this particular viscosity contains very little polymer. Polymer is a additive that make oil multi-viscosity. It control the thinning of oil as it gets hot. remember all oils thin with heat. A polymer prevents the oil from getting too thin. When polymers start to shear, thats when oil starts loosing its viscosity. Oils with narrow viscosity speads ie Merc's products or oils with no polymer ie straight weight oils have very little or no shear. But a over rich carb could contribute to thinning the oils through fuel dilution, but that could be anothe story. Ken

[Morgan's Cloud]

The oil nut on Oso says ...... :(

I figured you'd be up to speed Cuda .. :biggrin.:

[smoothie]

I've read the Gold Cap doesn't have the ZDDP which is some kind of additive, that the Red Cap had. It was taken out due to environmental laws. You can put Valvolene Additive in with the Gold Cap to put the ZDDP back in.

yep thats what I heard too...

Heres the additive:http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=21

or buy Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50.

I like it just because it doesnt break down at the higher oil temps that we all run.and runs cooler.

[smoothie]

i do have 10 qts of M1 15-50 on the shelf... maybe i need to "experiment" :)

Dont forget the bar charts :biggrin.:

[gcarter]

Minx Guy knows of which he speaks!!! :eek:
He sells specialty oils for many many very specific applications.

[Sam]

Donzigo, I like the way you think !!

Sam

[gold-n-rod]

Don't forget the the Mercruiser manual specifically recommends against any synthetic.

It's Kendall GT1 40 weight now for me (after many years of sucessfully running Royal Purple).

[Pismo]

All you need to know about oil

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83930


I am sure you could use just about any oil on a stock merc engine with little change in performance or engine life.

[CHACHI]

Marine Enigines work hard, never lofting, like auto engines. I've used 40 WT - (any good brand) for years and my vessels keep purring like a kitten.....I mean cat.....I mean *****cat.....oops, I think I'm on the wrong forum.....oh, well, you catch my drift, right?Your are correct, boat engines are always going up hill. But years ago when the API rating of you oil was SG or SH the zinc treatment was at a higher ppm. Its the new SJ, Sl oils that they have limitted the zinc levels in. As far as Mercury not paying a warranty because you did not use their oil, the Magnuson-Moss warranty act was inacted to protect the consumer from having to use the OEM product unless the manufacture( Mercury) gives the customer the oil free of charge for the length of the warrenty period. Ken

[smoothie]

All you need to know about oil

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83930


I am sure you could use just about any oil on a stock merc engine with little change in performance or engine life.


Bingo!

[CHACHI]

Don't forget the the Mercruiser manual specifically recommends against any synthetic.

It's Kendall GT1 40 weight now for me (after many years of sucessfully running Royal Purple).And up until 2 years ago Harley Davidson Motor Co wouldn't reccommend a synthetic, but now that they have a synthetic they reccommend it for their engine, trans, and primary. Coincidence, or did they change the seal and gasket material and machining processes to now be compatible with synthetic lubricants? Ken

[Cuda]

And up until 2 years ago Harley Davidson Motor Co wouldn't reccommend a synthetic, but now that they have a synthetic they reccommend it for their engine, trans, and primary. Coincidence, or did they change the seal and gasket material and machining processes to now be compatible with synthetic lubricants? Ken
That's what I was thinking when I said Merc made a synthetic. It was Harley I was thinking of. As if Harley has it's own refineries. :rolleyes:

[Cuda]

Just for the record, I run Amsoil in my Harley.

[smoothie]

And up until 2 years ago Harley Davidson Motor Co wouldn't reccommend a synthetic, but now that they have a synthetic they reccommend it for their engine, trans, and primary. Coincidence, or did they change the seal and gasket material and machining processes to now be compatible with synthetic lubricants? Ken

MINXGUY...your new name is OILGUY :yes: thanks for the good info!

[CHACHI]

Just for the record, I run Amsoil in my Harley.Cuda, even though the Motor Co. says it's ok to now run a synthetic in every component on your HD, you will still be better off to run a oil specificly blended for each componet. If you are running a motor oil in the primary, chances are it's an API SL rated product. One of the "issues" with an SL product is that it is a friction modified oil that may raise hell with your clutch in the future. As far as the tranny, yes motor will work, but a full synthetic GL-1 75w-140 gear oil will be heads and shoulders above any motor oil for a gear box application. You can use a API GL-1 gear lube because your trans has straight cut gears. Do not under any circumstances use a GL-1 in your lower unit. That needs a GL-5. Yes as I said , engine oil will work, at best it ok in the primary and trans. Use engine oil for the engine. Ken

[CHACHI]

yep thats what I heard too...

Heres the additive:http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=21

or buy Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50.

I like it just because it doesnt break down at the higher oil temps that we all run.and runs cooler.Smoothie, properly tuned engine, being a 4 stroke or 2 stroke runs in a certain temp range. I'm talking combustion temps not water temp. This combustion heat is taken out of the cylinder many different ways. The majority of the heat goes out the exhaust, and the balance is transfered to a bunch of internal engine parts, pistons, rings,valves, valve seats, etc. One function of an engine oil is to carry away the heat and bring it to cooler or a pan where the heat can escape. So if this engine runs in a specific combustion temp range and your engine oil is now running cooler isn't the combustion heat not getting transfered into the oil? If synthetic oils make a engine run cooler than sump temps should be higher, not lower. Changing to a different oil will not change the combustion temps, so if your combustion temps are the same and your oil temp is cooler than it stands to reason that you internal engine parts are hotter. Ken

[Moody Blu']

Here we go...Hold on... :p

AMZOIL synthetic 25/40 :biggrin.: :biggrin.:
Wes

ditto.

GUYS, we prolly have the best person around to talk about oils since he has done oil testing for major manufacturers.

the one and only BIG GRIZZLY.

p.s.
mobil one isnt as good as you think.

I run lucas synthetic in my I/O and amsoil in the motor(switched from mobil 1)

In my race bike i run Amsoil dominator 2 stroke at 50:1 most other oils have to be mixed at 32:1. ive taken apart my race bike motors and they look new with the amsoil.

[jdp_509]

Thanks for all the great information guys. I think I will go for the Valvoline 10W-40. Hope I am making the right choice.:lookaroun



I have a 350 mag in my 22ZX and was wondering how important is it to use mercury oil or can I a good quality motor oil from a auto parts store ?

[blackhawk]

Here's all my rules for oil in a performance boat:

#1. Keep fresh oil in your motor

It's taken me years to put this list together! :D

[CHACHI]

Thanks for all the great information guys. I think I will go for the Valvoline 10W-40. Hope I am making the right choice.:lookarounjdp_509, Being from Texas and all, you would be much better off running a 20w50 lubricant in your engine. The ambient temps in Texas are warm, hell maybe even in some circles people would call it hot. A 20w50 starts out "thicker" than a 10w40 when cold and offers more film strength at operating temps. Its the film strength of the lubricant that keeps piston rings off the cylinder bore, lifters off the cam, etc. When this film of oil fails thats when you need ZDDP as a reserve boundry lubricant to prevent componet wear. Up here in New York I run a 20w50 motorcycle lubricant to protect and give me the most reserve possible. Ken

[MOP]

OK Ken am I going to get spanked for running Kendal GT 1 10-40 in my stroker motor?

[CHACHI]

OK Ken am I going to get spanked for running Kendal GT 1 10-40 in my stroker motor?No, But 20w50 will handle the heat a lot better than 10w40, especially in your stroker. Ken

[MOP]

Ken the 10-40 was the first change, I ran the break in oil my machinest put in for a little over an hour then switched to the Kendal which I will dump at 5 hours then do the 20-50.

Phil

[JimG]

I run Kendall 20w50 GT1 in my Thoroughbred and my Donzi. I switched from 40wt Kendall when I found out that Mercruiser recommends it for the 600sci, the 850sci and the 1075sci. Keith Eickert, too. They have to know something about it.

Oh and I NEVER go over 20 hours on oil in my boat. Any oil...