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Moody Blu'
06-18-2005, 09:42 AM
I know this has been talked about but im working hard on my boat to get it in the water this weekend. I need to know the different ways i can get a volvo ultra onto my 250 drive. i have always had the short hub props, If you guys have pics of what you did to make it work please share them or explain. I REALLY DONT trust the volvo lock cone and i dont feel like losing my fastest prop because of it. would a nylon lock nut work to hold it???

I appreciate any advice in advance, now back to work for me!

Lenny
06-18-2005, 10:40 AM
Remove the two piece lock nut/ cone, separate it so it is only the outer pice (torpedo) and then have the center drilled and tapped for recieving the Allen Screw used on later drives. Then all you do is put a round bar through the nut/cone, tighten it up, then put the Allen Bolt into the end center and tighten it. I haven't lost any of my 3 SS ones yet. :)

Moody Blu'
06-18-2005, 01:00 PM
Remove the two piece lock nut/ cone, separate it so it is only the outer pice (torpedo) and then have the center drilled and tapped for recieving the Allen Screw used on later drives. Then all you do is put a round bar through the nut/cone, tighten it up, then put the Allen Bolt into the end center and tighten it. I haven't lost any of my 3 SS ones yet. :)

what size allen screw??

Lenny
06-18-2005, 02:01 PM
Broque, this is a Volvo thing. I do not know. When I say "tap it" I mean the propshaft. You need the cone with the hole in the center of it as well. All cheap stuff. To have the drive tapped cost me about $225.00 US for a Volvo Mech/Machine shop to do it. He removed the shaft from the drive. Unfortunately it cost me a lot more due to the fact that the existing shaft was "bent" and couldn't be centered in the chuck on the lathe.

Anyways, many here have drilled and tapped their own, I just seem to shy away from this kind of thing and I can pay for it to be done right by doing things elsewhere that I know how to do, in order to pay for the service.

It is no big deal. Stainless is interesting to thread I have been told. But it can all be done.

No biggy :)

Moody Blu'
06-18-2005, 03:19 PM
5/16 - 18 coarse thread....

Drill carefully and straight...


Tap carefully and straight...


Once finished you can drink again :) :)

Take the spacer off of the nose cone...

You may have to get the front spacer (line cutter) trimmed 3/16" or it will look like the first picture. Once it is cut your prop should fit like the third picture... Use loctite on the allen screw...

thanks mr poody!

i never had a front spacer on this drive since i bought it. i suppose that would create more cavitation if its not there?

I just dropped my ultra (rh)and my elephant ear prop(lh) off at tuckerton propellor. the elephant prop is being rehubbed and perhaps repitched and cut to a smaller diameter.

HOTFOOT
06-18-2005, 05:05 PM
I screwed the cone on the shaft and used the hole in it as a guide to keep the drill and tap straight.

Moody Blu'
06-18-2005, 07:35 PM
I screwed the cone on the shaft and used the hole in it as a guide to keep the drill and tap straight.
theres no hole on my cone

HOTFOOT
06-18-2005, 08:53 PM
You will need to get the long shaft cone that has the counterbored hole for the allen head bolt. This bolt locks the cone to the shaft.

Lenny
06-19-2005, 02:35 AM
Moody, that cone is peanuts... Go get one :)

Moody Blu'
06-20-2005, 11:05 AM
Moody, that cone is peanuts... Go get one :)

lenny or poodle, where can i order that cone i need it asap, i am having my elephant ear prop repitched to 25 with a cup for 26.. i dont want to lose it.
anyone know of a dealer i could call to order it as well? or does someone have one lying around?

mattyboy
06-20-2005, 12:56 PM
you need the long hub thrust washer as well or you're going to chew up the screws on the anode
KJLY63 reproduced the setup I had and we exchange long and short hub props no problem with the right thrust washer
he might be open to selling a setup
basically a threaded washer in SS with grooves and a tool to tighten then a backing nut no drilling no pucker factor
I'll post pics later

Moody Blu'
06-20-2005, 07:22 PM
you need the long hub thrust washer as well or you're going to chew up the screws on the anode
KJLY63 reproduced the setup I had and we exchange long and short hub props no problem with the right thrust washer
he might be open to selling a setup
basically a threaded washer in SS with grooves and a tool to tighten then a backing nut no drilling no pucker factor
I'll post pics later

its been all day where are those damn pics matty! :p

I think i understand though, pretty much two nuts backed onto each other to lock them in place?

mattyboy
06-20-2005, 08:09 PM
here

BigGrizzly
06-20-2005, 08:21 PM
I guess I have been dooing it wrong for all these years. the only difference is the nose cone, Infact Volvo sold me a dial cone pu;\ll off the base and it is the long hub. the hub refers to the nose cone not the shaft, the Volvo one has a Monell helicoil in it to eliminate the anode cathode thing. Like Lenny says they are cheep

Moody Blu'
06-20-2005, 08:48 PM
here

so how can i get in touch with this fella matty? id rather not tap my shaft. i have ideas in my head now though.

Tony
06-20-2005, 08:55 PM
I had a shop make me several different thicknesses of thrust washers. That way I am all set for any prop. I drilled my shaft, it was not difficult. I know about scoring the zinc screws...at AOTH I Poodle and I were on our stomachs working on that situation!

Be careful also, with your clearance. Under a load I believe the prop smushes itself closer to the zinc ring, thus scoring the ring and set screws.

Moody Blu'
06-20-2005, 09:46 PM
I had a shop make me several different thicknesses of thrust washers. That way I am all set for any prop. I drilled my shaft, it was not difficult. I know about scoring the zinc screws...at AOTH I Poodle and I were on our stomachs working on that situation!

Be careful also, with your clearance. Under a load I believe the prop smushes itself closer to the zinc ring, thus scoring the ring and set screws.
have any pics tony?

Tony
06-21-2005, 03:00 PM
You're in luck, Moody, I just took some today. Drill your shaft, you will not regret it. Buy brand new bits, one smaller and one the right size, and go for it. They say don't let the shaft heat up...there is a post explaining the whole process.

The second pic below shows the various thrust washers I had made. Another pic shows various things that any Volvo owner has likely accumulated. Even a plain old nut & washer for when you lose your cone on Mullet Lake and discover it while docked at the Hack-A-Matack Inn for dinner...about 9:00 p.m. on a Saturday night after several totties!

The water was crystal clear (damn zebra mussels!) and as I was admiring the boat I noticed the missing hub! Good thing I don't use reverse very often. Luckily a local scrounged around and took care of me with the right sized nut and washer. Man was I thankful, since my car was on the other end of the Michigan's Inland Waterway, basically the other side of the state.