Distributor in, carb back on, plumbed RIGHT etc...

[Lenny]

Distributor in, Demon back on and plumbed and filtered to the tune of $225 US. Swauged rubber and stainless braid, AN fittings etc. Awaiting my mech to get back with a Ballast resistor for the distributor/coil and a mounting bracket for both. Be back soon. That filter takes a while to prime... :eek: Compression check too while I am in there. Makes for a good base line for the Solas prop. The Morse control does not allow for "overtravel" on the Demon tho. Idle is "idle", but there is a ton of room on the throttle lever after the BG Demon is maxed out. I know that is a bad thing. Are there anyways to limit the forward travel of the throttle handle to prevent bending throttle plates?

Zudnic, we'll see how this goes. It is raining now, it was sunny, now it's not. :( Don't know about Chelan yet.

This pic would explain why the line didn't stay primed... :eek:

[txtaz]

Lenny, I'm no mechanical pro, but I think your supposed to mix the fuel and air in the carb, not the line... :boggled: :boggled:
Wes

[penbroke]

Running the drive trimmed up too high can do that. :biggrin: ;)

Frank

[MOP]

Quote!!
I know that is a bad thing. Are there anyways to limit the forward travel of the throttle handle to prevent bending throttle plates?

With a Volvo drive the throttle linkage should be able to slide in the connecter at the carb. Many guys eliminate the sliding block when they change carbs or it was done before they got the boat. The sliding block is a protection feature for the drive, it allows the drive to fully engage the cone before applying any throttle. I may have some of the slide type connecter in my junk I will look later!

The proper setup for ALL Volvos is! The throttle handle must be in the full throttle position go back and pull the throttle to full open and run both nuts up to the block and lock them together. Go forward and work the throttle a couple of times and again leave it the full throttle position the cab should be still at wide open, bring the throttle handle back to neutral and look at the carb linkage the securing nuts now will be about ½-5/8" away and forward of the sliding block this does away withe the drive banging into gear and gives you soft shifts and full throttle with out stressing the cable or carb linkage. I will look to see if I can find the Swedish rendition of what I just typed! Anyone with solid linkage should make this change it is nat a factory recommendation but a factory MUST!

[penbroke]

Quote!!
I know that is a bad thing. Are there anyways to limit the forward travel of the throttle handle to prevent bending throttle plates?

With a Volvo drive the throttle linkage should be able to slide in the connecter at the carb. Many guys eliminate the sliding block when they change carbs or it was done before they got the boat. The sliding block is a protection feature for the drive, it allows the drive to fully engage the cone before applying any throttle. I may have some of the slide type connecter in my junk I will look later!

The proper setup for ALL Volvos is! The throttle handle must be in the full throttle position go back and pull the throttle to full open and run both nuts up to the block and lock them together. Go forward and work the throttle a couple of times and again leave it the full throttle position the cab should be still at wide open, bring the throttle handle back to neutral and look at the carb linkage the securing nuts now will be about ½-5/8" away and forward of the sliding block this does away withe the drive banging into gear and gives you soft shifts and full throttle with out stressing the cable or carb linkage. I will look to see if I can find the Swedish rendition of what I just typed! Anyone with solid linkage should make this change it is nat a factory recommendation but a factory MUST!

Where can I get this sliding type connector. Mine is the solid type.

Frank
Bold works for me... :wavey:

[MOP]

Qoute! Where can I get this sliding type connector. Mine is the solid type.

Frank you can modify the existing connecter can be simply drill out the threads just enough for the cable to slide within the connecter. The trick is to have the cable able inserted through the connecter with both nuts on the end, have the shift handle in the full throttle position then run the nuts up until the carb is at full throttle then lock the second nut against the other. It is a very common mistake on boat builders riggers behalf to install the linkage incorrectly, at least half the new boats delivered to use would have the connecter locked between the two nuts. You knew right away without lifting the engine hatch they would slam into gear, for many years was the only Volvo tech on Eastern LI. No joke I would have to change over 20-30 a season, people would bring their boat in with the banging into gear problem. They would get a kick out of the 10 minute or under fix me two our bottom rate was 1 hour minimum so at the time it was $65 for 10 minutes work, never once did any of them complain they were so pleased with the smoothness in the shift that most of the time I even got a tip.