Lenny
05-16-2005, 07:16 PM
Remember, the larger the container of resin you mix the faster it will kick. A gallon at a time seems like lots if you are working alone. Also remember that once it starts to kick in the can, throw the can away. You can't thin it or dilute it. It is all over. Start again. Hope these help ya. Based on 60 degrees F. Reduce the catalyst for hotter room temps. The max is about 1 1/2% to resin ratio, the least is about 1%. You should be fine at about 60-65 degrees.
Never do it in the sun. Ever.
If you want to see something "hot" , pour a couple ounces into a batch that is going off. It can (does if things are right) burst into flames and the smoke, ...well.. :D
Also, the BEST rollers to use are the 3/8-1/2" DIA white polyethylene ones. They don't react and leave the black lines in the lay-up and the small diameter makes for a FAR better lay-up. The aluminum ones are a pain. If you already bought aluminum ones, make sure they are small diameter. Bigger is worse. If you need to clean them cus they are "frozen" just use a Benzomatic torch and set fire to it. Then you're good to go again.
Here, I use "herring buckets" used by the fishing industry to ship herring. They are square and hold about 5 gallons. They allow for a full width paint roller and a large mix so if you have a helper and are able to do a lot of wet out and lay-up efficiently, it is the only way to go. But, they kick faster in the bucket and you have to throw more away if you are not watching. The stuff that kicks (or starts to) take outside and have a designated "junk" bucket of the stuff. Scrape it out into this junk bucket and go back inside and remix some fresh stuff into the container you were using. That outside bucket will end up getting VERY hot and smoke etc. with all the scrap you put in it. Keep it away from you and your house.
Pre-wet the side of your Balsa end-grain that does not have the scrim on it. Wet it WELL, easiest over a 45 gallon drum laying down. Then take it over to your deck and flip it over, wet side down. Then wet out the back side (scrim) till you're satisfied and cover with a 1 1/2 mat, 18 OZ roven. Make sure the balsa perimeters are chamfered or filled, fillet.
Trick to keeping stubborn Roven down in tight radiuses and bends is to put pieces of mat on top where the problem areas are.
Never do it in the sun. Ever.
If you want to see something "hot" , pour a couple ounces into a batch that is going off. It can (does if things are right) burst into flames and the smoke, ...well.. :D
Also, the BEST rollers to use are the 3/8-1/2" DIA white polyethylene ones. They don't react and leave the black lines in the lay-up and the small diameter makes for a FAR better lay-up. The aluminum ones are a pain. If you already bought aluminum ones, make sure they are small diameter. Bigger is worse. If you need to clean them cus they are "frozen" just use a Benzomatic torch and set fire to it. Then you're good to go again.
Here, I use "herring buckets" used by the fishing industry to ship herring. They are square and hold about 5 gallons. They allow for a full width paint roller and a large mix so if you have a helper and are able to do a lot of wet out and lay-up efficiently, it is the only way to go. But, they kick faster in the bucket and you have to throw more away if you are not watching. The stuff that kicks (or starts to) take outside and have a designated "junk" bucket of the stuff. Scrape it out into this junk bucket and go back inside and remix some fresh stuff into the container you were using. That outside bucket will end up getting VERY hot and smoke etc. with all the scrap you put in it. Keep it away from you and your house.
Pre-wet the side of your Balsa end-grain that does not have the scrim on it. Wet it WELL, easiest over a 45 gallon drum laying down. Then take it over to your deck and flip it over, wet side down. Then wet out the back side (scrim) till you're satisfied and cover with a 1 1/2 mat, 18 OZ roven. Make sure the balsa perimeters are chamfered or filled, fillet.
Trick to keeping stubborn Roven down in tight radiuses and bends is to put pieces of mat on top where the problem areas are.