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Rootsy
05-12-2005, 12:29 PM
this'll teach ya not to seal the faces of holes...

Just Say N20
05-12-2005, 12:33 PM
And what major project are we looking at here.....?

penbroke
05-12-2005, 01:21 PM
I thought the foam was supposed to go around the fuel tank. :eek:

Frank
oops, I said it again. :rolleyes:

boldts
05-12-2005, 04:33 PM
why a red and white barrelback 18' Classic. Nice

mattyboy
05-12-2005, 08:42 PM
is that were the term rotten to the core comes from????? ;)
come on Jamie stop taking pics and get moving we need that puppy up at 1k isles :yes: :)

Scott Pearson
05-13-2005, 05:11 AM
Hay....I know that boat..... :D


Scott
LGDCC

Rootsy
05-13-2005, 06:56 AM
so how do i get this area correctly contoured again without the use of massive quantities of glass and filler???? both areas where the hatch latches were mounted to the deck are sunken severely... it is very flexible but springs right back...

MOP
05-13-2005, 07:47 AM
I would use a light weight filler like micro ballons to fill, get the shape right but leave the surface low enough to apply two layers of glass.

Phil

Rootsy
05-13-2005, 08:23 AM
let me reiterate... without massive use of glass and filler... i don't need new stress cracks in thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours... it is sunken from the outside inward... :umbrella:

Lenny
05-13-2005, 08:43 AM
Jamie, you could brush a bit of resin on there, that area, cut a piece of 1/4" ply to cover that area required, then roll out one mat (1 1/2 OZ") and then one 18OZ roven, roll that out, (just that little area) then cover with wax paper, then place the 1/4" ply on top of the paper and put a stick up into the ceiling, pushing down on the 1/4" ply till you get the desired effect when viewed from underneath. That is only going to add about a 1/16-3/32 of a inch to the area. Then you will be covering that whole area with a mat again anwyay, and then bedding compound (putty) prior to pressing in your balsa core.

Should work.

MOP
05-13-2005, 08:55 AM
You can also try a heat lamp and like Lenny said jack it from above apply the heat from the bottom, we have pushed out depressions in the sides of sail boat over an inch deep from people over tightening the shrouds. Hull sides are some thick and the heat works just fine, the heat lamp should be kept about 16-18 inches from the surface. Let it get good and hot to the touch then let it cool thuroughly before releasing tension. You may have better luck trying that and not have to add much material to fair it out.

Phil

smoothie
05-13-2005, 10:43 AM
same here I would try the heat first...used to make some cool stuff out of "plexie" glass.

Rootsy
05-13-2005, 10:47 AM
just how "HOT" do i want to get the surface and do i need to let it heat soak for a certain period before attempting any deflection?

smoothie
05-13-2005, 12:23 PM
I knew you were going to ask that :biggrin: I would try the heat lamp first and maybe on a piece of scrap before attempting on the boat.

MOP
05-13-2005, 12:57 PM
Jamie I am guessing that the glass is about 3/16" to 1/4" thick what I would do is to set up the light below the area let it warm up until it feel the it is pretty hot on top. Then I would take a piece of 1/2" or better plywood lay it on top with about 20lbs to keep pressure on it, make sure you overlap onto the OK area next to the dimple. That should when cooled get you real close, to get it real perfect is a little bit of a chore. Cut another piece of plywood that matches the area you want to shape, this piece needs to be shaped so it has a crown. From looking at the photo I would make the crown about 1/16" high, get the heat back on it when it cools it will spring back a tad. Many times you get it right the first time, if not increase the crown slightly. What you do want to avoid it pushing it to far then you end up back tracking, take your time let it cool thoroughly it may take an hour or so. You will get it.

Phil

penbroke
05-13-2005, 09:31 PM
You're worried about that little depression with those vent holes and that hatch????? :wink:
And I thought my boat needed some cosmetic work.

Just kidding. You do have a bit of a job in front of ya...


Frank :umbrella:

Rootsy
05-15-2005, 08:52 PM
AHA!!! i found a new use for a valve spring compressor!!!!

Lenny
05-15-2005, 11:08 PM
0-90 Kyntex, nice. Looks good Jamie. This will be one to watch for sure. Call me if you have any problems. 250-474-4005

MOP
05-16-2005, 12:30 AM
Jamie looking good, real nice cradle job. Can't wait to see the results I know its goning to be a cool 18 well maybe not to cool :checkered

Phil

Rootsy
05-30-2005, 03:31 PM
The progress on the "red mistress" continues...

MOP
05-30-2005, 03:39 PM
Hmm I see you are cranking along, maybe the 18 at 1K run is in sight after all.

Phil

BERTRAM BOY
05-30-2005, 03:42 PM
She looks much better than when I had her.........Great job.

penbroke
05-30-2005, 09:46 PM
Nice! Looking good. :yes:

Frank

txtaz
05-31-2005, 06:47 AM
WOW, Nice job. I wish I had the time, tools and talent to attempt a project like that.
Good luck with the rest of the project.
Wes

mattyboy
05-31-2005, 08:48 AM
nuff posting get to work, ;) and remember temperature is critical when doing this type of work Jamie
nobody likes warm beer

looking good

Rootsy
06-22-2005, 12:55 PM
moving right along... at a snails pace these days... off to the deck... much better shape than the rear end... :)

penbroke
06-22-2005, 09:27 PM
Looking good! It's a lot of work but it will be worth it in the end. :yes:

Does the motor/drive setup exist yet or is that another adventure? Looks like you'll be needing it sooner rather than later...

Frank

Rootsy
06-22-2005, 10:20 PM
power has yet to materialize... it'll be an R-W Original to be sure... with a bravo in tow... not quite sure how much ooomph i want to stick in it yet... need to sell the 16 to get to that step anyway :banghead: