Seat slide repair or replace

[DickB]

The seat slides in my ’99 Classic 18 are in need of repair or replacement, which I discovered while bringing my boat out of storage this weekend. Springfield Marine makes them out of extruded aluminum for the seat slide and cast aluminum for the base. On one of the bases a critical piece that engages the extruded slide is broken off and on the other it is cracked and bent and about to break off. Frankly I question the use of cast aluminum for this application. I’m not inclined to replace the parts even if I can find them (which I haven’t so far). I’m considering repairing the bases using aluminum bar stock or complexly replacing the whole mechanism. What do you have in your boat? What do you recommend for this application?

Also, the bases were attached to the floor with stainless screws. Removing the screws resulted in whatever they were screwed into falling off the bottom of the floor. I can’t see any easy access for reinstallation. Suggestions please?

[Ranman]

Check out this thread.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37898&page=2&pp=15&highlight=seat+garelick

I have broken numerous Springfield units and came up with the solid mounts shown in the pics. I may try a set of the Garelicks to see if they'll hold me (260lbs) and offer some adjustability.

To reinstall fasteners, I took 1/4-20 hex bolts with big fender washers and pushed them through from the bottom. You have to do this by opening and reaching through the center cooler access port for your fuel pickup and sender. When I replaced these bolts I had to have my wife (smaller arms) reach up in there and push the bolts through from the underside. Took a couple of tries to get the right length bolt too. Anyway, any time I remove the seat frames now, I loosen them enough to tie garbage bag ties around each bolt so it won't fall back through.

[glashole]

if you search past threads I think there was someone who was selling a set of seats for your boat


regards


Shea

[DonCig]

Dick, I have found that the only decent high quality replacement is from a compnay called Garelick. www.garelick.com
The rest of the garbage on the market just does not hold up.
I have tried Springfield, Todd, etc.
The model # that I like is Garelick part #75081. Their are some Garelick alternates that might work: 75080, 75090, 75091.

You can struggle to get to the bottom of the fiberglass seat pedastals by sticking your arm thru the gas tank inspection cover that is located below the floor storage cover. Or you can do what I did and purchase some "Fasco Fastner Company, Inc." Toggler Toggle Bolts 1/" x 20 and drill some larger holes in the pedastal to accomodate.

If you need some pictures to help; let me know since I am just completing the instalation of these on my 1997 18'

I also have 2 springfield units like the ones that you are replacing for sale for $15.00 each if you want to take the easy replacement route.

Do not worry about the hardware that fell into the bottom of the boat. It will all work itself to the rear by the end of the summer.

Their are a number of threads on this issue if you want to see some other solutions.

Sincerely,

DonCig

[Ranman]

DonCig,

Are the Fasco Toggle bolts some sort of special toggle? If they're just a wing toggle like I'm thinking, what did you do for support / backing plates? Please tell me you didnt use a SS wing toggle simply pushed through the hole that's pulling on the fiberglass from the backside with no support... I "struggled" to push the bolts though the floor from the underside, but those bolts have huge, thick fender washers to distribute the load forces. I would think this is especially critical when you bounce sided to side in the boat. I would think a simple wing toggle would tear through (or at least lead to stress cracking around the holes) on a good wave...

If I can do this to a seat frame, what would happen to wing toggles?

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8452

[roadtrip se]

on a 22.

No wear, no tear, and on a good day I weigh in at 233. At 6'4", I also have the seat a the very end of the track, which has got to put a ton of strain on the connection points.

Also keep in mind that there have been many days in the past two summers here in Michigan, where we seemed to spend more time in the air, than actually on the water.

Never forget the day I found myself gazing at the sky at 70mph, the Springfiled remains looked like shrapnel...

RT

[Ranman]

I'm going to try one of those Garelicks on my side to see how it works. Sounds like a superior unit to the Springfields. I was initially concerned about bolt pattern and overall height in an 18 since there are no pedestals like the 22's. Also, as Jeff mentioned, my legs barely fit under the dash so height and rearward travel is of big concern.

Anyway, I'll try one and if it's as nice (and functional) as you guys say, I'll pick up another and scrap my solid mount plan. If the Garelick's don't work, it's off to solid mounts.

[Tidbart]

Randy,
You have the raised fiberglass pedestal where the seat hardware mounts, correct? Bryant from Donzi told me that there is a steel plate mounted in that pedestal. I need to replace my original Springfields also and was going to helicoil the new bases in place as the bolts or threads seem to have stripped. I couldn't tighten them any more. Use of the helicoil would mean not having to get to the underside of the pedestals.
Obviously, the bolts go in from the top, were yours originally this way?

Bob

[Ranman]

Yes, I have the raised bases, but I don't know anything about a steel plate in the base. This is the first time I've ever heard of it. There doesn't seem to be one there on my boat. Similar to others here, when I first unfastened the original seat bases, I lost the hardware that was on the other side which led me to believe the holes are clearance holes and not tapped. I figured the bases were originally installed before the deck was installed and I was just lucky to be able to service them through the access hole. Maybe the new Donzis have a tapped plate in the raised pedestal (wouldn't that be nice). I "trialed and errored" different bolt lengths, pushing them through from the bottom (access hole) until I got the right amount of threads to come through. The way I have it now, I just know to wire tie the bolts when removing nuts on top of the seat frame so I don't lose the bolts into the bilge. If you find a steel plate embedded in your pedestals, I would drill it and tap it (or maybe go the helicoil route). Of course, you know not to try to embed a helicoil into the fiberglass...

On another note, you may not be able to tighten any more if the nuts are spinning on the underside. I found that lock washers will help keep the nuts/bolts from spinning on the opposite side of where your tightening. That or the holes may be stripped like you mentioned.

[Tidbart]

Thanks Randy,
I will take a closer look before proceeding. Maybe I just have a nut inside, spinning. I'll use the neighbor's 7 year old to get his arm in there. LOL

B

[DickB]

Dick, I have found that the only decent high quality replacement is from a compnay called Garelick. www.garelick.com (http://www.garelick.com/)
The rest of the garbage on the market just does not hold up.
I have tried Springfield, Todd, etc.
The model # that I like is Garelick part #75081. Their are some Garelick alternates that might work: 75080, 75090, 75091.

You can struggle to get to the bottom of the fiberglass seat pedastals by sticking your arm thru the gas tank inspection cover that is located below the floor storage cover. Or you can do what I did and purchase some "Fasco Fastner Company, Inc." Toggler Toggle Bolts 1/" x 20 and drill some larger holes in the pedastal to accomodate.

If you need some pictures to help; let me know since I am just completing the instalation of these on my 1997 18'

I also have 2 springfield units like the ones that you are replacing for sale for $15.00 each if you want to take the easy replacement route.

Do not worry about the hardware that fell into the bottom of the boat. It will all work itself to the rear by the end of the summer.

Their are a number of threads on this issue if you want to see some other solutions.

Sincerely,

DonCig


Thanks DonCig and all. I've ordered a pair of the Garelick slides. Hmmm, I'm not near my boat now, but as I recall that access hole was very small and the tank was very close to the opening. I'll give it a try, or ask my wife to help. But, if needed, what do you think of cutting say a 3" access hole in the center of the pedestal? It would be covered up by the slide base.

[gcarter]

It's funny you mentioned a cutout on the top of the pedistal.
That's what I did on my Minx!

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33784&highlight=monday

Even down to the Garelick sliders.

Good luck! :biggrin:

[DickB]

I installed the Garelick slides this weekend. Exact fit as advertised and they look very solidly built. The locking mechanism is also much easier to use than the originals. Thanks all for the tip. This forum is great. Even my wife was impressed (no mean feat!).