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onesubdrvr
04-02-2005, 12:28 AM
Well,

I made the fix to the distributer, and was cleaning up the garage a little, and ran across the paper for the FlameThrower Coil. It states - "To remove a resistance wire, trace the coil power wire, which was previously connected to the positive coil terminal, back to the fuse block. Bypass this wire with a 12-gauge copper stranded wire."

The resistance wire (on my OMC) is purple and red. In the manual, to test it, disconnect this wire, and the purple wire at the distributer. Is this where I need to run the wire (replace purple at distributer with new wire to purple / red at coil) - obviously disconnecting the old ones?

Wayne

MOP
04-02-2005, 09:24 AM
What they are saying is to eliminate that wire, replace it with regular and supply a full 12volts to the coil #14 will work fine. The resistance in that wire drops the voltage down about 4 volts, if you fish it out of the harness right at the plug you can solder and heat shink right there anf get your 12 volts the resistance is built up in the length. If you run your hand along the harness you will find that the wire is doubled over along the way to get the exact lenght needed for the required resistance.

Phil

onesubdrvr
04-02-2005, 09:42 AM
What they are saying is to eliminate that wire, replace it with regular and supply a full 12volts to the coil #14 will work fine. The resistance in that wire drops the voltage down about 4 volts, if you fish it out of the harness right at the plug you can solder and heat shink right there anf get your 12 volts the resistance is built up in the length. If you run your hand along the harness you will find that the wire is doubled over along the way to get the exact lenght needed for the required resistance.

Phil
Thanks, I'll try that, although I must admit, my soldering skills leave some to be desired, now if it was brazing pipe, no problem!! I may just jump out that wire for now, and run it like that for the season,..... Next winter, one project will be to re-do all the wiring, or atleast tidy it up, I have some stragglers from the new engine, and I'd like to do it in nice wire runs / etc.

Wayne

MOP
04-02-2005, 09:49 AM
You can do a crimp connetion for now, solder and shink just can be hidden better. You will have good voltage either way, go for it!

Phil

MOP
04-02-2005, 09:53 AM
An idea to keep it a bit cleaner looking, cut it slidethe heat shrink on. You can with a little care push the metal piece out of a crimp connector reducing the size considerably, then shrink and tape it over it should look fine. Try to keep the wire fairly short (3-4") coming out of the connector.

Phil

onesubdrvr
04-02-2005, 10:00 AM
An idea to keep it a bit cleaner looking, cut it slidethe heat shrink on. You can with a little care push the metal piece out of a crimp connector reducing the size considerably, then shrink and tape it over it should look fine. Try to keep the wire fairly short (3-4") coming out of the connector.

Phil

You know, I've used the bare connectors before, but have always opted to the insulated ones, as I deal primarily in 110v control circuits and what not. Anyway, that is a great idea, easy, and definately neater than trying to shrink wrap over the insulated one!

Thanks again Phil,
Wayne

Rootsy
04-04-2005, 06:22 AM
a pen torch makes soldering OH SO MUCH easier and quicker :)

JR

onesubdrvr
04-04-2005, 03:32 PM
Well,

Spent a little time on the boat this afternoon,

1) checked the carb (best I can without a vacuum gauge),
2) Adjusted initial timing from about 7.5 to 10, giving myself a total of 34*
at between 3000 and 3500 RPM.
3) On the carb, there was no screw in the fast idle adjustment, so the choke flap could EASILY flap open and shut. Now I'm not trying to be funny, but it seems to me the engine would just starve and die, but with rapid cycling, could that have caused my problem?

I ran in it the driveway again, and see no problem, idle temp is about 165, holds 800rpm pretty good (a little surging, but OK), Timing stayed right at 10*, revving unit up and rapid to idle OK, I'm running 93 octane,....This means I THINK I'm ready to test again, but is there a way to load test this without putting it in the water? Last 2 tries have been unsucessful, and am getting frustrated limping the Donzi back home,....

Wayne
PS, who wants to come "Be my hero", and help me "get er done?"