Just How Good Are Drive Showers?

[donzi182003]

I was contemplating installing a drive shower on my Alpha. I wanted to get others opinions on them before drilling 2 holes in my cavitation plate. I have seen that they are relatively inexpensive and their function seems to make alot of sense. What do ya think? Why or why not?

[Last Tango]

There are at least two great threads on this topic already. I suggest you use the search button above and look for "drive shower" under that. We have had some "rousing discussion" on this topic over the last couple years, both pro and con. I am a "pro" on this topic. That means I love my drive shower on my Bravo One and would recommend it for an Alpha.

Addendum (since we seem to be opening this topic again anyway): ZERO speed loss on my boat - look at the picture on the Donzi factory website of the 18 Classic. The cavitation plate in nearly out of the water. That means if you mount it correctly you can't possible have any affect on top end.

[Lenny]

It cost Todd S about 2 mph I believe on his Bravo and shortie.

Also think he removed it.

:confused:

[donzi182003]

Thats my concern......I would hate to lose speed. Has anyone else lost speed with showers?

[MOP]

Bad Tat taped into his raw line after the pump and ran water to a cap, pretty slick!

Phil

[Ranman]

18 Classic - 350MAG / Bravo One. Zero speed loss. Well worth the money. Didn't think twice about the holes.

http://www.donzi.net/hull/DNAC8015J697/water5.jpg

[JimG]

I'm with Randy on this one. My Bravo is handles 600hp, and has had zero problems. I'd never be without a drive shower...

[KRAVEN]

After spending $48,000 on my 18 classic,whats another $119.00.Cheap insurance for the Bravo1xz.

[Sam]

Zero mph loss on my Alpha Gen II or the Alpha SS. To me it's not worth the chance of toasting a drive.

Sam

[BUIZILLA]

I have 3 of them. I swear by them. No loss of speed on any of the 3 boats.

JH

[TREYSTJOHN]

Gen II Alphas don't really need a shower unless pushed real hard with 350+hp. Showers will lower drive oil temps about 20-50 degrees. On Bravos we always use the IMCO Shower Caps as opposed to the tube showers. IMCO part #SK-2 Bravo or SK-1 Alpha. More important than the shower for your Alpha is oil quality. Only use either AMSOIL or Red Line synthetic gear lube spec GL-5. Do not use any of the Mercury lubes. We use Amsoil mixed with 1 ounce Militec per quart in all our drives and lowers. No lube related failures yet.


Hope this helps.

[Sam]

TREYSTJOHN, as far as I know heat does not discrimnate I.E Alpha Vs Bravo. Although I have no personal experience with the lubes you mentioned I'm sure they do the trick based on what I have heard. What I don't understand is what do you know that a world class corporation like Mercury dosen't................Hmmmmmm?
Maybe I've just been lucky, but after logging a LOT of hours on the water with all kinds of boats I have yet to have a single drive failure due to Merc gear lube. In fact I have never heard of a failure due to Merc lube.
Based on the surveys I've seen published on performance boat web sites Merc High Performance lube has been the number one choice. If your going to make a broad brush comment like " Do not use any of the Mercury lubes" I for one would like to hear and or see your hard data to back that statement up.
My comments here are not intended to start a verbal joust they are just that, my personal comments. And no I don't own Merc stock.

Sam :eek!:

[MOP]

THe Red Line in particular has my interest, I have Merc Hi Po in the BH now which I will be draining after a few hours. I saw the most convincing tests on Moble 1, Red Line and Merc Hi Po gear lubes. One of the mechs at a buddies shop flushed an Alpha out and filled it with each of the three oils testing each in the simplest test. After each filling he tipped the holder so the drive was prop shaft up then used an inch pound torque wrench to turn the prop shaft, Merc 35 in lbs, Mobile 1 32+ in lbs, Red Line 29 in lbs. No way will I run anything but Red Line from now on!!!!

Phil

[JimG]

There's an interesting thread going on OSO about this very subject. Some evidence of Red Line foaming, and cooking a drive or two.

[Mudball]

This got a little OT, but I can tell you about my experiences with drive showers on my Bravo.

Before, my drive would be caked with that white chit all over it after a few hours. This is on a fresh water lake. So, pull the boat and use a bunch of CLR or Limeaway, and it looks good again. I hated doing that.

After I installed my Simrec shower, the drive is just as black and purdy as it was the day I bought it, even after MONTHS of boating!!

In other words, I no longer have to de-white the drive.

Isn't that enough reason?

Also, ZERO speed difference for me.

Kent

[Ranman]

In other words, I no longer have to de-white the drive.

AMen. If this were the ONLY benefit of simrek shower (which I don't believe it is), I say the $119 is well worth it.

[john445]

I dare ask. What is a drive shower. I am a sailor who is thinking of buying a power boat and have been looking for a Donzi Classic 18 or 22. I have been following this board for a couple months and reaped alot of knowledge from you fine people. And I thank you. But, again, what is a drive shower?

John

[donzi182003]

JOHN,
A DRIVE SHOWER IS A DEVICE USED TO COOL DOWN THE TOP HALF OF YOUR OUTDRIVE WHILE YOU ARE ON PLANE. SINCE THE TOP HALF OF THE DRIVE IS OUT OF THE WATER IT CAN GET REAL HOT AFTER RUNNIN A LONG WHILE. GO TO THIS SITE IT WILL ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS.

http://www.driveshowers.com/


FORTUNATELY I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY CHALKING ON MY DRIVE. tHE CHALKING DOES HAPPEN ON MY TWIN FOURSTROKES ON THE CONTENDER. I SEE STEAM WHEN I TAKE OFF BUT THAT IS OBVIOUSLY COMING FROM THE THRU HULL EXHAUST. DO ANY OF THE SALTWATER GUYS ON HERE GET CHALKING OR IS IT MOSTLY IN FRESHWATER????


P.S. CONTENDER IS MY FATHERS BOAT NOW THATS WHY I DECIDED TO NOT SELL THE DONZI:yes: :yes: WOULDA KICKED MY SELF IN THE ARSE A MILLION TIMES IF I WOULD HAVE SOLD IT

[TREYSTJOHN]

In response to Sam.

Most HP Bravo guys like Bravo Shop or Imco do not recommend the Mercury Lubes. My uderstanding from them is that under high heat conditions, the Merc lubes begin to lose viscosity and foam. Under normal operating temps the Merc lubes work just fine. Our in-house findings back that up. The last side by side test we ran to prove this to a customer was last summer on a 24' Switzer with twin Modified 2.5 mercs which make about 295hp a piece. We drained both lowers (the lubes looked equal) and cleaned plug magnets, filled one with Merc HP lube and the other with our Amsoil. Our customer ran the boat between 5,500 and 7,000 rpms for 10.4 hours (2 weekends of running). Upon draining both lowers, the Green Merc HP lube came out black, burnt and foamy...The Caramel Colored Amsoil came out a little darker, no signs of burning and with no foam. The Merc magnet was covered with metal while the Amsoil magnet had 90% less metal than the Merc magnet. We have run other tests such as this and the findings were always similar. As I said before under normal conditions, the Merc lube or any quality lube will work just fine. Under big load and high heat conditions 100% synthetic (Amsoil, Mobil-1, RedLine) is the only way to go. Hope this helps.

[MOP]

DO ANY OF THE SALTWATER GUYS ON HERE GET CHALKING OR IS IT MOSTLY IN FRESHWATER????

It looks about the same except its SALT, when we used to run I/O's on a prop shaft dyno with just muff water they would get real hot to the touch after only about 10 minutes.

Note as far as I know Merc still has not gone to circulating the drive oil like Volvo and OMC which makes one heck of a difference, you never see either of them with any deposits what soever!!!!!!