PDA

View Full Version : 350 Build



onesubdrvr
01-08-2005, 10:39 AM
OK !!!
well, the work on the new engine starts next weekend :hyper: (teardown, inspection, clean), so I'm starting to get input on "building" it. :idea: I have assembled engines before, but am not a performance guru, so wouldn't know where to start with cam selection, rockers / lifters / etc. So, here goes. I want to build to about 325+- hp, let's start from the crank up, should I stroke it?, or will I even need to to get 325? All input is highly desired. Money is a little bit of an object, so going super / turbo charged is not really an option, but (for example), if there is $100.00 difference in the crank between stock and stroker, no problem. (but the more money I can save the better)

Oh yeah, if your wondering what the goal is here (I may be underestimating the HP needs), the goal is to get the Ragazza into the 60's, or higher,....

Thanks in advance, this will be a fun thread for me!!

Wayne :wrench:

Cuda
01-08-2005, 11:23 AM
What engine are you starting off with?

onesubdrvr
01-08-2005, 11:42 AM
What engine are you starting off with?Well, I'll have the get the #'s off the block, but it was a 1980 OMC 5.7l 260 (?) It came out of my dad's Formula, the guy that he bought it from said it was a screamer, which makes me question if he had anywork done to it? OH well, next weekend it gets it's new home here.

Cuda
01-08-2005, 12:23 PM
Was it still running when they removed it?

onesubdrvr
01-08-2005, 01:39 PM
Was it still running when they removed it?
Was last run about 6 mos ago, but boat hasn't been used in over 5 years.

Wayne

f_inscreenname
01-08-2005, 09:53 PM
The first thing I would do is take it apart to see if it need any over sizing (rings, bearings) and if it need any machine work then I would go to northernautopart.com with my sizes and make a order.

Start with a “street performer” master rebuild kit. That comes with flat top pistons, molly rings, rod, main and cam bearings, melling oil pump, Crain energizer cam & lifters of your choice, Cloyes True roller timing set, freeze plugs (you will have to upgrade to brass for a couple bucks) and every gasket you will need from carb to the oil pan and a lot more you wont need but they are there just incase. Get this, for $286.97 You can upgrade or change anything you want for very little money. I have used and told everyone I could about these guys for years and have never had anyone say a bad thing. For that matter they always tell me they are awesome. They are all quality, name brand parts. I’ve built a Chrysler 360ci with 330hp out of there store 4 years ago and I started with there master rebuild kit. I had the motor apart for some upgrades last spring and while I was at it I redid the bottom end so I got a chance to check it out after a couple years of running hard. Everything look great. Another thing is when I had the motor speed balanced (like you should do, very cheap for the benefits) when I first built it. The balancer said that all the pistons were all within a half of a gram of each other off the shelf. That is quality.

I would also pick up a Edelbrock Air Gap performer intake. You see them on e-bay all the time cheap and with a intake there isn't much that can be wrong with it (no risk of a bad one)

A 383 kit with the 400ci crank is $610.00 without the crank $412.13

Trust me you are not going to beat there prices. I had three months of winter to research my motor build and Northern blew everyone’s doors off and they have great customer service. If interested I will run down what I would do (change in the kit) but I need to know what your intentions are. Like do you put around or like to go? I ask because if you want the top end you will have to sacrifice a little like a tumpy idle etc.

I will be around.

onesubdrvr
01-08-2005, 10:33 PM
If interested I will run down what I would do (change in the kit) but I need to know what your intentions are. Like do you put around or like to go? I ask because if you want the top end you will have to sacrifice a little like a tumpy idle etc.

I will be around.

Let's put it this way, I like to go, but, there are many places where I boat that there are speed restrictions / minimum wake zones (hey Scott, got Manatee's?). There will be alot of mid-range stuff with the kids tubing / etc. But ultimately, I'm going up to a v-8 from a v-6 for one reason, top end.

Thanks
Wayne

mattyboy
01-08-2005, 11:55 PM
I'd
go to a BB !!!!:rolleyes:

f_inscreenname
01-09-2005, 12:12 AM
You know you will have to change drives? The gear ratios are not the same. If so we can move on, if not it is time to rethink it.

onesubdrvr
01-09-2005, 07:20 AM
You know you will have to change drives? The gear ratios are not the same. If so we can move on, if not it is time to rethink it.

I figured with the Cobra outdrive, I'd be able to use the same drive, just pitch the prop (currently turning only a 17, imagine I could compensate for power up to 25p?

Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-09-2005, 07:21 AM
I'd
go to a BB !!!!:rolleyes:
Or should I say boat,...... not in the Rag though. The price was right on the engine I got, so,......

Wayne

Lenny
01-09-2005, 09:41 AM
If, (when) you blow your Cobra drive, you are going to have a hard time finding parts for it...Does a Bravo figure in your equation?

Cuda
01-09-2005, 10:18 AM
I think the Cobra will hold up ok.

MOP
01-09-2005, 10:42 AM
Scot is right, it is harder to break a Cobra. Yours is a bottom shifter similar to an Alpha, a bit stronger but not as strong as a King Cobra or Bravo. Your gear ratio is an issue but should be alleviated by going to a Michigan Vortex prop setup, pretty good availability of types and pitch. Opinion I would just freshen up the 350 with a respectable cam, that would give you a nice boost in performance without breaking the bank. It is some easy to go overboard and that will slow you down getting into your next boat, you do have a plus yours will draw a better buck with the V8.

You are joining the ranks of the AFFLICTED, it can be a very expensive hobby with many hidden $$$ pits!

Phil

Cuda
01-09-2005, 10:50 AM
Do you have through hull exhaust? It will make a difference on what cam you can run.

Rootsy
01-09-2005, 10:51 AM
For the HP you are lookin at i don't think longevity of the cobra is gonna be a big issue... being at a 17P you have a long way to go before running out of pitch.

now do you want 325 propshaft hp or crankshaft hp? reason i say this is because the difference is "roughly" 30 hp... which strongly dictates valvetrain selection and possibly cylinder heads.

Either way you don't need to go 383... it's a waste of your budget, you can easily aquire these power numbers with a 350. You won't need any fancy internals, all of the stock parts will serve you fine.

spend the money and get things machined properly...

JR

f_inscreenname
01-09-2005, 12:50 PM
I agree with the most of what was posted by others but a few questions or statements.

First; “Your gear ratio is an issue but should be alleviated by going to a Michigan Vortex prop setup”.

Now this is where I don't know (cobra’s are not my strong suit) but using a six cylinder geared drive and “propping it up” to get your motors RPM down to a reasonable rate is going to be a lot of prop. That means you will have a very slow take off. Second is you will be beefing up your motor (more power) then you will be spinning that drive awful fast. Then there is the age and condition of the drive. I don't know, I will leave that up to the drive guru’s here but I would definitely look into it a little more.

“there are many places where I boat that there are speed restrictions / minimum wake zones”

To get that kind of HPyou want you will need a good size cam and that means a thumpy idle. With what I built, I don't like long 6mph zones and that is the trade off I am will to take. I has since moved to a duel plain cam that helps but I wouldn't want to put around in a “boat parade” with it. I would end up running over the boat in front of me. So realistically you should be shooting for about 300hp out of a 350ci. A good strong motor that will last and probably (in your boat) only be a mile or two slower top end.

“Opinion I would just freshen up the 350 with a respectable cam, that would give you a nice boost in performance without breaking the bank. It is some easy to go overboard and that will slow you down getting into your next boat”

I am sorry but this is where I totally disagree with you MOP and most people who have a motor out of a boat. If you are going to install a untested (used) motor in a boat without doing a rebuild is just asking for trouble. Then pop in a performance cam and boom in no time. Especially a 350ci, the parts for these motors are so cheap its sick. The master kit I recommended would give him 9.5/10 to 1 and the motor would be basically brand new. Lastly a total rebuild would give me piece of mind and $300 bucks pretty cheap for that .

“Do you have through hull exhaust? It will make a difference on what cam you can run.”

Even with the cam I would recommend (a duel plain cam for exhaust restricted motors) that is a good point. Thru hull is a must.

“Either way you don't need to go 383... it's a waste of your budget, you can easily acquire these power numbers with a 350. You won't need any fancy internals, all of the stock parts will serve you fine.” “spend the money and get things machined properly...”

True but again the motor is out and for $300.00 it would be well worth it. I would not do a 383 in a boat either. They are to fickle for that type of environment. And yes spend the money for the machine work. A must!

So is here what I would do.

From Northern-auto parts

STREET PERFORMANCE KIT - Hypereutectic Pistons
INCLUDES
*Federal Mogul or Hastings Moly Rings - Go with the Moly’s they will seat faster and smoother in the cylinders
*Federal Mogul flattop Hypereutectic Piston - I use the same pistons in my motor now
*Clevite Rod Brgs - Give them you size (.10 .20 etc under) I use them now
*Clevite Main Brgs - Give them you size (.10 .20 etc under) I use them now
*Clevite Cam Brgs - Give them you size (.10 .20 etc under) I use them now. You may have to have a shop install theses if you haven't done them before.
*Melling Hi volume Oil Pump - Good pump I use now also.
*Crane Energizer Camshaft and Lifter Kit (USE VALVE SPRINGS TO MATCH CAMSHAFT LIFT)- This I would change this to a duel plain cam. There part # for that cam and lifters set are- 113942 and the for the matching valve springs is - 99848-16

You have to check into these cams. They are cool as sh.. They have duel patterns for exhaust restricted motors (even with thru hull all boats are exhaust restricted). It opens the valves in a pattern to allow it to breath better and the bes thing is its only $30.00 more then a standard cam.
*Cloyes TRUE Roller Timing Components - good chain, Worked great for me
*Pioneer Frost Plugs- These are steel. You must upgrade to brass, doesn't matter what brand
*Felpro Gaskets - Great gasket set, Comes with everything you will need for the motor plus a bunch of other gaskets you will not need but I guarantee even if your motor has a odd ball gasket in there somewhere it will be in the kit.

There isn't any penalties for changing the kit. They credit you for what you take out and you just have to pay the difference. Then this is the one! http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2352&prmenbr=361

Then I would top it off with a good 650cfm carburetor. A carb is a carb to me. I favor Edelbrock a little because that is what I have now and they are real easy to work on if needed or for tuning.

If you have the old points style distributor clean it out good and do away with the points and condenser. You can do this by adding a kit to it from this company http://www.pertronix.com/

You want a “Ignitor II”. I have had mine for about three years now. Best 65 bucks I have spent to date. A lot of times you see them on e-bay. You just have to know what distributor you have. Most times there is a tag on the side of it that will tell you. Add a good coil. I used the yellow “Super Stock” from Pep-Boys and you are all set.

Now that would be a good strong, reliable motor and rock at the same time.

I hope your motor came with all the marine parts (carb, exhaust, dist, alt, etc) you will need since you are swapping from a six cylinder or it will become very expensive to put this motor together. Good luck.

f_inscreenname
01-09-2005, 01:04 PM
After that long post I forgot the most important thing. Have any machine work done that is needed or at least have them look it over to make sure. Things have to perfect. Then get everything speed balanced. Cost about a hundred bucks and it will double the life of your motor again pretty cheap.

IMHO If you plan on keeping the boat don't half ass it now because in two years you will be sorry when you are doing it again. :)

Rootsy
01-09-2005, 01:11 PM
Yeah, thanks. Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon some juice. But it ain't exactly street legal so keep it on the down low. :smash: :smash: :smash:

MOP
01-09-2005, 03:38 PM
The word freshen is the term used by more than a few for a complete rebuild IE: what ever it takes to make it fresh. I have a bud with a 540 blower motor that is being freshened as we type guaranteed no short cuts!

I know I left out the words "and add" and used "with" sorry!

My opinion I would not go over 9.5 on compression, let him have some tolerance on gas and timing. I am running compression at 9.2 in my 383 yeah its built for a hell of a lot more but what price dependability, near 6k in my mouse motor. 383 for him humm 400lbs+ torque, sounds like lunch time for the drive and much lost boating time. Most of us are leading him down a path of non destruction, let him keep it easy this round, rebuild, cam and exhaust. He has stated several times that his budget is a bit pinched, lets get him boating not breaking. Rootsy can steer him to a nice flat tappet Hyd cam, that and good exhaust will put a real good smile on his face.

Phil

Cuda
01-09-2005, 03:59 PM
Guess I'll head out to the garage and start ripping that fickle 383 outta the boat... :cool: :biggrin:

Please package that fickle 383 for shipment to Deland. I'll even pay the freight. :)

f_inscreenname
01-09-2005, 04:14 PM
Don't take it out so fast. Not saying it cant be done but like you said he is on a budget. I am one for the longer stroke. That is one reason I replaced my last 302 with a 351W and also took the 318 out of the boat I have now and replaced it with a 360. I just hear a lot of people talk about having timing problems with stroked motors always adjusting it back and forth. I would be the first to say I don't know that much about them so if yours has no problems I will take your word for it.

The cam; here is a link check it out.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=113942&lvl=2&prt=5

It works by opening the exhaust valve longer (but not to long) allowing the motor to breathe better. I replaced a Crain Energizer with the same intake specs with there duel plain cam. When I installed the cam in my motor I got better top end, better idle and better gas mileage. Also I swear the exhaust sounds better. All that and the intake specs were the same meant to me it works. IMHO there is no better cam made for boats. Like I said all boats are exhaust restricted (unless you have dry headers). Just pushing water through exhaust tip and elbows causes back pressure and if you run the cast iron manifolds you really need them. Also works very well with Nitrous and Superchargers if you ever want to do that in the future.

Cuda
01-09-2005, 04:31 PM
What I would do:

Have the crank ground and install new rod and main bearings
Install new hotter cam and lifters
Hone the cylinders

I don't know what carb is used on that engine, but it would probably be ok.

onesubdrvr
01-09-2005, 06:04 PM
Well,

Where do I start?

First of all DAAAANNNGG, thanks for all the input y'all.

Second, I think 325-350 hp is all I need (in this boat). I do want a 500+hp monster,.... but in something like a 22 classic. Anyway, with my current motor, I was able to scrape up 40mph at 4300rpm today, 4 hefty adults, and 3/4+ fuel. Oh yeah, about 100 gallons of water in the bilges too,....don't worry, it wasn't the drain plug.

Third, rebuild was already budgeted,.... I would never put an unknow motor in anything (except maybe my lawnmower) without rebuilding it. Also, like you mentioned Phil, I'm not wanting to break the bank on this boat, as I plan on getting either another boat, or a new boat some time in the future (not ready to make that jump right now though, I'm holding out for Donzi to introduce a new line of bow riders (lol) (I know, I know, 28zxo, I wish)

EXHAUST,.... Well, I do not currently have through hull, but would like to budget it in,... any ideas on what a complete system will cost me (I'm sure they go all up and down the spectrum, but ball park, and keep in mind, on this boat, I'm NOT GOING TOP OF THE LINE ON THIS BOAT)

Drive replacement is not an option at this time.

So, where to go now?
The engine will be rebuilt, during the rebuild, obviously any performance parts to be installed WHICH at this point, concensous seems to be 1) Cam, 2) exhaust 3) rebuild 4) Machine work
Am I right?
Looking forward to those responsese

harbormaster
01-09-2005, 06:13 PM
You really need to hook up with an engine machinist in your area.
They know all the tricks to building an engine that is going to hold together. They can save you time and money

Meet with the machinist, and get his ideas.

Let him take the motor and spec it out to see what you really have.

Then, when you know what you have, you can consullt with him on a stroker kit.

I used my machinist when I had my 18's 350 lose a piston.

He bored all 8 cylinders .30 over, and milled the heads. He then re-assembled the long block with new pistons, rings bearings, gaskets and seals. He even balanced the competed assembly.

final cost for everything 1370.00.

All I had to do was put on the starter, manifolds, carb, and distributor.

To stroke it add 1000 bucks.

And you even get a warranty!

Cuda
01-09-2005, 06:33 PM
For thru hulls, a lot of time you can find a set of used tips for around $100 or so. Then all you need is to block off the old exhaust at the drive.

MOP
01-09-2005, 07:06 PM
Scot is right!
But first thing that bothers me is your location and the motor being older and used in salt.
Yup it is time for serious thoughts about the blocks condition before you plunk down your $$! Was it stored with anti freeze in th block? That is a major plus as it retards corrosion in the block. You need someone knowledgeable to pull the heads and look inside to make sure you really have something worth re-doing. OK now that I have worried you, if the block checks out OK then get a recommedation for a decent machine shop. Let them determine what is needed to get the motor up to snuff and find out before you go forward.

Phil

onesubdrvr
01-09-2005, 07:30 PM
Scot is right!
But first thing that bothers me is your location and the motor being older and used in salt.
Yup it is time for serious thoughts about the blocks condition before you plunk down your $$! Was it stored with anti freeze in th block? That is a major plus as it retards corrosion in the block. You need someone knowledgeable to pull the heads and look inside to make sure you really have something worth re-doing. OK now that I have worried you, if the block checks out OK then get a recommedation for a decent machine shop. Let them determine what is needed to get the motor up to snuff and find out before you go forward.

PhilHonestly, I'm not sure how it was stored, like I said earlier, it was my understanding that it was run <6 mos ago BUT, that doesn't mean anything, my engine ran today, but I won't run it again. Anyways, when I get and start working on it next weekend, the first thing I will do is disassemble it, and take the block to a shop to have it checked out.
Thanks
Wayne

harbormaster
01-09-2005, 07:58 PM
Wayne do not disassemble the long block!!!!

Take the hole freakin thing to the machinist. Let them disassemble it so that they can see any problems accurately!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rootsy
01-09-2005, 08:07 PM
Honestly, I'm not sure how it was stored, like I said earlier, it was my understanding that it was run <6 mos ago BUT, that doesn't mean anything, my engine ran today, but I won't run it again. Anyways, when I get and start working on it next weekend, the first thing I will do is disassemble it, and take the block to a shop to have it checked out.
Thanks
Wayne

take the connecting rods, crankshaft and cylinder heads along with you... they all need some machine work done...

if the block is solid have them hot tank it, punch the bores and make sure the decks are flat. They will hone it when they fit your pistons, once you receive the rebuild kit.

Have them resize your rods and hang the pistons, have them gap the rings for you... and install new rod bolts...

they will also mic the crank when you are there so you know what size bearings to get with your kit... they'll turn it for you and polish the journals... imho i wouldn't balance the rotating assembly... it really isn't going to be of any benefit in terms of longevity and reliability until 5700ish rpm

Let them install your cam bearings when you get them in your kit also...

As for cylinder heads.. if you are going to use the stock ones have them go through the valves, and if they are really needed replace the valveguides... i prefer to avoid knurling, i feel it is nothing but a bandaide. If you plan to use a camshaft in excess of about .480 gross valve lift you are gonna need to have the valveguides shortened and cut for teflon seals for retainer clearance. I'd also consider screw in studs, not strictly necessary but added insurance if your camshaft specs higher spring pressures. invest in new head bolts also...

350 crankshaft hp isn't going to be too difficult to achieve and with the camshaft restrictions due to exhaust your idle will be JUST fine... it'll be easy to achieve a nice steady idle of 600 rpm in gear.. and if the carb is adjusted properly you won't have to worry about loading up.

if you go straight thru-hull with stock merc center riser exhaust you are going to be limited to about 224* of duration @ .050 on a 112* lobe seperation.. this is just a "rule of thumb". the further back you dump the water the more duration you can get away with. remember the more camshaft you run the higher in the rpm range you are gonna make peak hp and torque... once you get into the 224* range you are getting over 5000 rpm for an HP peak... if you have a free flowing air path...

stick to 9.3:1 or less for 87 octane fuel. cylinder pressure and heat dictate what kind of fuel you need to run and that is based upon static CR and valve timing events. with a smaller camshaft you'll have to run you'll build more cylinder pressure or translated into what is known as dynamic compression ratio. when assembling measure the distance your piston is down in the bore @ TDC... with the head gasket thickness you want to shoot for a total of about .040 inches... this will all depend on a few factors.. gasket selection, the amoutn the block is decked if any at all, amount the machinist takes off the big end of the rod when resizing and the compression height of the piston. it would be a good choice, for safeties sake to verify valve to piston clearances with some clay also...

with the stock cylinder heads and the camshaft selection you have... the performer eps is a good intake.. stay away from the rpm airgap, it's a little large for what you are looking to do... a 750 cfm carb is going to be entirely too large and will give you problems more than joy from your combination...

if you have the budget look at a pair of the GLM aluminum merc manifolds... they are "reasonably" priced and offer some benefits of runner seperation, as well as weight savings.

if you want to pick up some extra oomph in the cylinder head department... look at the GM vortec cylinder heads... you will require a vortec intake manifold for use with them though... they are much better than earlier stock castings.

the stock ignition if it is a TBolt IV system will be plenty to run the motor... if it is a point ignition look into a pertronix kit... if it is a mallory distributor look into mallory's unilite conversions to make it electronic...

i'd also not put it together without a HV/HP oil pump and ARP steel drive shaft for the pump... and make sure it has a windage tray in it.

camshaft selection isnt rocket science for this motor combination... if you go thru-hull you are going to have many more options... set of used 4 inch tips with internal or external flappers... and 3 feet of 4 inch exhaust hose, 8 hose clamps and a block off plate for the transmo assy and you are there...

JMHO

Root

onesubdrvr
01-10-2005, 07:15 AM
OK,

So the plan is
1) Get engine back to the ranch to remove all items that are unnecessary for the machinist.

2) Take them the long block

3) Rootsy,.... If I'm getting a rebuild kit, won't I need to wait until they go through the block to order it? (to make sure I order the right bore) I planned on getting a kit with new rods / pistons / cam / bearings / etc etc.

Also, keeping in mind that they are doing the work, should I give them the courtesy of the parts business (the rebuild kit), or is there a way a tactfully handle that situation myself to save some bucks? OR, do most of them just do the machining and assembly?

Thank-you everybody, I will be in constant contact with you throughout the build.

Wayne

f_inscreenname
01-10-2005, 07:33 AM
Take it to them first. They will need to figure out if it needs anything over-sized (bearings, rings etc) before you order. If you are having someone do your work they will probably have there own parts supplier. I am sure they will tell you if you don't use there parts they wont guarantee the build so get out your check book. They probably buy from where I told you to buy from (that is how I found them, a friend who builds motors for Baltimore city turned me on to them) but with a good mark up. Good luck.

Rootsy
01-10-2005, 12:03 PM
OK,

So the plan is
1) Get engine back to the ranch to remove all items that are unnecessary for the machinist.

2) Take them the long block

3) Rootsy,.... If I'm getting a rebuild kit, won't I need to wait until they go through the block to order it? (to make sure I order the right bore) I planned on getting a kit with new rods / pistons / cam / bearings / etc etc.

Also, keeping in mind that they are doing the work, should I give them the courtesy of the parts business (the rebuild kit), or is there a way a tactfully handle that situation myself to save some bucks? OR, do most of them just do the machining and assembly?

Thank-you everybody, I will be in constant contact with you throughout the build.

Wayne


guess you have 2 options here.. hand it over to them and have the machine shop order and assemble everything OR... when you drop your block, crank, rods, etc off they will mic em right there in front of oyu and tell you what you need to order for undersized bearings and oversized pistons. then they;ll go off and machine... you bring your pistons, etc to them and they measure the pistons and hone the bores to final dimensions which is only a few thou of an inch...

JR

TREYSTJOHN
01-10-2005, 01:09 PM
Wayne,


I have a complete HD gear set 5.7/8.1 late model Cobra Set-up (Bellhousing to drive) 1.41 ratio which I took out of my 18' in favor of New Bravo. I had all the gears magnafluxed, new seals and bearings installed in preparation to hold up to the same exact motor configuration you are shooting for. If you are interested call me at 410-761-1337. I also have the original OMC 3" center riser exhaust system which is in great condition.

All the other suggestions are good, I would add a Crane 113801 cam, Performer Rpm Air-Gap Manifold, Holley 650 vacum Secondary Carb and a set of Imco Thumper Power Exhaust Manifolds to your list. This set up with stock GM Old Style 76cc 194 heads and 4 valve relief pistons would give you 8.8 compression and should accomplish your goals Peak power should be 5100-5300 rpm. If you desire an additonal 50hp and 500rpm peak, change heads to Dart Iron Eagle 200cc/64cc heads with single springs, this will give 9.7 compression and require 93 octane.

Have fun.

onesubdrvr
01-11-2005, 06:12 PM
I hope your motor came with all the marine parts (carb, exhaust, dist, alt, etc) you will need since you are swapping from a six cylinder or it will become very expensive to put this motor together. Good luck.

Yup, it sure did, and the boat is still at my dads, so I may look at scavenging the shifter and some other odds and ends.

Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-12-2005, 05:54 PM
Well, trying to get my build cost tallied up before I hit momma with it (at least she loves the boat). So far I'm looking at a set of GLM manifolds and risers with corsa captains call and side hull exhaust. I was thinking of doing some work on the heads for a little more power, thinking about going to Vortec heads. Is there any difference between marine and automotive heads? I know I'll need a new intake manifold to match.

Wayne

Cuda
01-12-2005, 07:22 PM
Cast iron intakes are hard to find for the Vortec heads. I've got a brand new set of GLM cast iron manifolds if you're interested.

Cuda
01-12-2005, 07:24 PM
There is really no difference in the heads themselves. The marine engines originally came with heavier castings, you can actually feel that they are heavier, but automotives are fine. SS valves are needed.

onesubdrvr
01-13-2005, 08:52 PM
Well, was pricing heads tonight to try to finish tallying up the total, found that Jegs had Vortec heads $259.00/ea. These do not have stainless steel valves, so add another $160.00 for valves, total,...680.00 Also, **REQUIRES THE USE OF SELF ALIGNING ROCKER ARMS** - are the ones in my 1980 motor self aligning? if not, add another $200.00 Grand total - $880.00

The other option would be stay with non vortec heads - S/R Torquers for $800.00 or Sportsman II's for the same $880.00 Either way, I'm going with a new manifold, 165 (Vortec), or 130 for non Vortec.

So really, both prices are pretty much the same, which do you guys perfer? why?

Also, to sum up, I plan on going with the Street Performer rebuild kit that was mentioned earlier, GLM CAST IRON exhaust, SS Risers, Captains Choice with side hull exhaust, HEADS (ABOVE), and last but not least, a 600-650cfm carb (my pop told me it needs replaced) (considdering all, speed demon, Edelbrock, and Holley), is there a huge difference in them (range from 300-375-570) am I forgetting anything? (except for the obvious machine work that will be getting done).

Also, I know with cam selection, you are limited (whether or not you go through hull). If you run a captains choice, are you still limited as if you were not going through hull at all? I'd like to be able to keep it quiet with the wife and kids on board, but be able to flip the switch and rumble,.... any input? Is it RPM related, or is RPM irrelivant?

Wayne

Cuda
01-13-2005, 09:05 PM
I bought a set of reconditioned non vortec heads with 2.02 intakes, stainless valves for around $325 I think. They also had the screw in studs.

Rootsy
01-13-2005, 10:19 PM
i am pretty sure... like 110% that my stock 217 castings that came off my 350 did NOT have stainless valves... 11/32 stem intake regular ole and 3/8 stem exhaust sodium filled... stock valves will suffice... stainless and inconel are nice but honestly not necessary for what you are doing.

you don't NEED roller rockers for self aligning but they don't hurt especially in reducing side loads on the valve and some friction... if you NEED and WANT a set of stock self aligning rockers i THINK i still have enough extras lying around to supply you with 16 in 1.5 ratio with fulcrums... you pay shipping... hope i didn't toss em, i can't quite remember, i'll take a look.

honestly the 600 edelbrock will fit well... if you have a servicable quadrajet and the manifold will accept it... i say go for that... if it comes down to demon or holley... i prefer demon... comes with all the bells and whistles and quality and manufacturing is better...

we can talk bumpsticks next... i have a PBM P/N that is inexpensive that'd probably work pretty well...

JR

mattyboy
01-14-2005, 08:24 AM
dude for all this work I 'd seriously think about getting a classic or a 22 zx

onesubdrvr
01-14-2005, 08:49 AM
dude for all this work I 'd seriously think about getting a classic or a 22 zx
Well, I appreciate what your saying, but, I figure about $3500 to build a respectable engine, plus my labor. I know, if I trade the boat (say get 5000 trade), plus the $3500, getting close to the $10k mark, why not spend it and get a used classic or Z, well, it's just not in the cards now. We are having a new house built, and until that is done (about 9 mos. of prime boating season), and our current house is sold, the answer is no. So I figure I'd do the work now, increase the value of the boat by about $2k, then after things settle down (say this time next year), look at a new boat. Right now, because of the size of the family, and the ages of the kids, I want to stay in a bow rider. The z-22 bow rider is an option (Phil, that one you've got listed on your sight looks nice). But ideally, I'd sell this, buy a 22 classic, and talk momma into picking out the "Family" boat (whether or not it be a deck boat, center console, bow rider, cuddy, whatever, let her pick it). But once again, right now, with all the obligations, it's a no. In the next year or so though,...

Thanks again
Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-16-2005, 10:57 PM
Well,

Finally got the new engine back to the ranch (after a fiasco with renting a trailer and having to install a hitch on a,.....CARAVAN!!!) Oh well, so be it, it's here. Pulled the exhaust manifolds off and loosened the valve covers, then lost my energy (it's too late, been too long of a weekend, lots of driving to get this thing). But, anyway, Cuda, you asked early in the thread what type of Motor, unsure of year, OMC King Cobra 350. Valve casting #14096217, block casting # V04268AS or T (or 7) 1039812.

I am excited though, will take pictures as work gets done and keep up to date.

Thanks again for all the input,
Wayne

Rootsy
01-16-2005, 11:33 PM
same cylinder heads that came on my 350. are teh center intake manifold bolts at a different angle than the end bolts? next, take a gander down past the pushrods with a flashlight, looking under the intake manifold. do you have a tin piece bolted to the valley holding down some pieces that encompass the lifters? if so the motor is 87 or later and is a roller camshaft motor which opens up some other opportunities...

shoudl look like this...

onesubdrvr
01-17-2005, 01:36 PM
same cylinder heads that came on my 350. are teh center intake manifold bolts at a different angle than the end bolts? next, take a gander down past the pushrods with a flashlight, looking under the intake manifold. do you have a tin piece bolted to the valley holding down some pieces that encompass the lifters? if so the motor is 87 or later and is a roller camshaft motor which opens up some other opportunities...

shoudl look like this...OK,

First, yes, the center manifold bolts are at a different angle than the end ones.
Second, there is no tin piece in the valley, but there is three bolt holed that look like they are at the same place as in your photo.

Block# 14093638

Thanks
Wayne

Cuda
01-17-2005, 10:42 PM
If you need heads, you might want to check these out. Not too far from you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50442&item=4519805609&rd=1

onesubdrvr
01-18-2005, 08:31 AM
YEAH!!

Well, have the engine stripped down to long block form, hoping to take to machine shop by end of week so that I can get the rebuild kit on order (after inspection)! Everything came apart nice and easy, but exhaust, intake manifold and thermostat housing were very rusty. Heads visually appear good, same with block, but will have to let blockhead (name of machine shop) check it out and tell me for sure. I was pretty lucky too, coming off of the formula, had the through hull exhaust tips, just need a little cleaning. I am going to have to use my water pump (this one is locked up), am going to check out the starter, maybe keep a spare (same with power steering and alternator). OH YEAH, I almost forgot, this engine has a power steering cooler on it, any reason why?

Pictures soon,
Wayne

Cuda
01-18-2005, 08:35 AM
Wayne, let me know if you want that exhaust and risers. I have another guy ask me about them, but I told him you had first shot.

BUIZILLA
01-18-2005, 08:50 AM
Wayne, is the motor a roller cam/roller lifter or not?

somethings not right here..

JH

MOP
01-18-2005, 09:32 AM
Wayne you need a cooler on marine power steering, the engine hole can get pretty hot.

Rootsy
01-18-2005, 09:49 AM
Jim,

it is a roller camshaft engine block. With a flat tappet camshaft installed. Sam pilato's motor was the same way in his 96 16, machined for roller but installed with a flat and none of the hardware. where as my 97 16 had a roller installed with all of the lifter anti-rotation hardware.

Wayne PM'd me and described it as machined and it has the lifter dogbone retainer plate holes drilled and tapped... as well as the lifter bore tops machined flat.

Therefore Wayne, when you order your rebuild kit they NEED to know this because it is a 1 piece pan gasket and a 1 piece rear main seal block. When you buy an intake you also have to make sure you get one that has the center bolt holes at 72 degrees

One last edit... i hope you are replacing the rod bolts when you do this... i suggest ARP products.. but avoid the damn wave-loc bolts... they are strong but a ROYAL PITA... and overkill

JR

onesubdrvr
01-18-2005, 11:15 AM
Wayne, let me know if you want that exhaust and risers. I have another guy ask me about them, but I told him you had first shot.Definitely intersted, should have the clearance from the block doctor early next week, then we'll go from there.

Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-21-2005, 02:54 PM
Well,

The block went to the machine shop Thursday, a phone call Friday to let me know so far so good (couldn't believe that this engine was this old and hadn't been rebuild, "looks great" :shades: Only has one concern (after visual inspection), on the heads in the area of the cooling ports by where the head gasket seats (a little corrosion, but he is sure it'll be ok). He is going to pressure test everything, and after measurine everything we'll be ready to go.

In the mean time however, I decided to polish up these old exhaust tips, can you guess which one I worked on and which one I've still yet to do?
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9004&stc=1&thumb=1

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9003&stc=1&thumb=1


Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-30-2005, 09:57 AM
Well,

After a closer examination of my old heads and confering with my machinist, I decided instead of fixing my existing heads, I'd replace them (needed 3 new seats in both heads and was some pretty bad pitting in the mating surface of the intake manifold). So, I have a set of heads on the way.

The block itself was pretty good, going .020 on the bores, and .010 on the mains and rods. So, the rest of the parts will be on order tomorrow, should be able to bring the block home next weekend and start assembly!!http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/biggrin.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/biggrin.gif :wrench:

Getting more and more excited,
Wayne

Cuda
01-30-2005, 10:08 AM
So you're going to bore it anyway?

Cuda
01-30-2005, 10:09 AM
Good to meet you Friday, I'll hunt around for that other riser today.

onesubdrvr
01-30-2005, 12:06 PM
So you're going to bore it anyway?Yeah,

He pointed out some stuff to me I didn't notice before, Oh Well, no big deal,.....

Likewise, it was a pleasure to meet you Friday, and am looking forward to gettin 'er done for Mount Dora!!

Wayne

ps, whenever you find the riser, let me know, we'll get together again so that I can pick it up, and maybe we'll even have enough time to grab lunch and a beer then.:beer:

Cuda
01-30-2005, 02:37 PM
So you're going to bore it anyway?

Since you're going to bore anyway, might as well go to 30 over, I think that gets you a 383. Pistons and such are much more common on the 30 over.

Cuda
01-30-2005, 05:37 PM
Stock crank does not get you a 383.... It's a 355 I think??

You are correct Scott, I should have known that, that's what I have in my 20 SC. A 350 with a 400 crank gets you 383, right?

Rootsy
01-30-2005, 09:32 PM
lets put it more in terms of stroke... 3.75 inch stroke and a 4.030 bore gets you 383ish CID.... 3.75 is stock 400 stroke, BUT you cannot put a 400 crank directly into a 350 block due to main bearing journal size incompatibility... the 400 crank must be machined... if you use a 4.00 bore then you get 377 cid... 3.48 is stock 350 stroke...

30 over is the "most" common but no biggie getting pistons in 20 over fi you are going to be ordering them...

remember.. 1 piece rear main seal block when ordering gaskets and seals... takes a 1 piece pan gasket too... expensive damn thing at like 30 some bucks generally

J

onesubdrvr
01-30-2005, 09:43 PM
Will definately remember about the gasket / seal when ordering kit.

I'm going to stick with .020 on the bore because I'd like to keep as much beef in there as possible incase I have to rebuild again (although, hopefully, by then I'll have a different boat).

Not cryin for much longer,
Wayne

onesubdrvr
01-31-2005, 09:13 PM
Just have some odds and ends to order, intake manifold and carb. being most important.

I know it's no super charged bigblock with an arneson surface drive, but it should be one of the baddest rag's around,.... :biggrin.:

More to come,....

Wayne

Cuda
02-01-2005, 09:29 AM
Did you end up going with Vortec heads?

onesubdrvr
02-01-2005, 02:57 PM
Did you end up going with Vortec heads?
Well,........:D
Yeah, I got a pretty good deal on a set of "906"'s, and am starting to look around now for the intake (if I HAVE to go Aluminium I will), but I suspect I'll find one in cast,...

any luck on finding that other riser yet?

Thanks
Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-03-2005, 09:03 PM
Box #1 came today :biggrin.: :biggrin.: :biggrin.:
Lower end / rebuild stuff,.....
Scat rods w/arp's, roller cam, roller lifters, roller rockers, rollmaster timing chain, new HV Oil pump, gasket sets.

Box #2 Tomorrow (?)
Vortec Heads

Box #3 mid-late next week
Intake / Carb / misc. stuffs
TBD

:biggrin.: :biggrin.:
Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-09-2005, 08:19 PM
Well,

Machine work is done :hyper: :hyper: http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
All gaskets / bearings / lower end stuff is here http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

New Carb / Intake manifold / ignition and new ARP bolts will be here tomorroe
http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

Heads came today http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif right? well, not exactly, opened up box 1 of two,..... excitedly throwing popcorn packing and newspaper in a garbage bag at a frantic pace, then sit and stare lovingly, ahhh the beautiful Vortec head,......OH YEAH, BOX #2 of 2, same thing, ripping, taring, but WAIT, WHAT'S THIS? A SET OF 6 CYLINDER HEADS IN THE OTHER BOX!!!! :kaioken: :banghead: SO, box #2 goes back tomorrow to get the right HEAD!!

Thus being, I still feel like I am on schedule to make Mt. Dora!!!

Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-11-2005, 04:13 PM
Well, all parts are here, machine work is done, assembley starts next week!!http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/biggrin.gif

Here is what I ended up doing / going with

Heads, GM Vortec heads
Cam - Roller:
Duration @.050 int/exh 210/215
Intake valve lift .462
Exhaust valve lift .470
Lobe seperation 110 degrees
Operating range 1500-5000 RPM
Hyd Roller Lifters
Roller Rockers
Pertronix Ingitor II distributer & coil
Edelbrock performer intake manifold with Edelbrock 600cfm carb
Melling HV/HP oil pump with ARP drive shaft
ARP studs (head, mains)
And all the other standard "goodies" Parts cost $2700.00, look on momma's face when I handed her the bill,.....:splat:
well, let's get her on the water and see it change to http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif

Exhaust will be strait through hull with side exit tips (if I can decide on the tips)

Next project:
INTERIOR!!

Cuda
02-11-2005, 05:09 PM
Wayne, I haven't forgotten the missing riser yet. I'm having trouble locating it in that mess I call a garage. Especially after Debbie "straightened it up". :eek: :(

onesubdrvr
02-11-2005, 05:17 PM
Hold up on the ARP head studs a minute.. Will they clear the exhaust manifolds??
:wrench: :banghead: :wrench:
Good question, I'll check tonight

Thanks for the heads up!!

Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-11-2005, 05:18 PM
Wayne, I haven't forgotten the missing riser yet. I'm having trouble locating it in that mess I call a garage. Especially after Debbie "straightened it up". :eek: :(
No problem Joe,

As long as I gitter done before Dora!

Thanks
Wayne

Rootsy
02-13-2005, 03:42 PM
Hold up on the ARP head studs a minute.. Will they clear the exhaust manifolds??
:wrench: :banghead: :wrench:

should not be a problem MP... no issues with studs here or on a few other marine motors i've put together... as long as they are driven in the appropriate amount....

have some experience otherwise? i would like to hear it :)

Root

onesubdrvr
02-13-2005, 07:39 PM
Well,

I'll let everyone know for sure sometime next week. It'll be the Vortec heads with GLM Manifolds

Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-16-2005, 03:09 PM
Well,

Went and saw my block today (had to drop off some parts to the machine guru) It's looking GOOD!! (He hooked me up with a really nice block color). Dropped off all of the top-end stuff as I've decided to let him take it back to long block form. He and I are pretty excited as everything has gone pretty well thus far, and the engine should give me pretty good power.

Does anyone know a way of estimating horsepower without actually putting the engine on a dyno? I know with a car you can take weight, 1/4mile e/t, etc. but that's a little difficult to do in a boat. Would it be possible to estimat knowing start HP (270), then conservatively adding say 10hp for roller cam, etc.?
Just curious what I can expect when done.

Thanks guys
Wayne

MOP
02-16-2005, 03:31 PM
Jamie ( Rootsy ) has Desk Top Dyno, send him a note he can punch in you specs. The program is very good and gets real close.

Phil

onesubdrvr
02-16-2005, 03:33 PM
Jamie ( Rootsy ) has Desk Top Dyno, send him a note he can punch in you specs. The program is very good and gets real close.

PhilThanks, I'll shoot it off, I know he's been pretty busy lately though.

Wayne
ps, find it yet Phihl?

Cuda
02-16-2005, 04:09 PM
Wayne, I can't find that other riser to save my life. I guess I'll have to give you a refund. I'll keep looking though. I'll be in Melbourne tomorrow laying out the job.

onesubdrvr
02-16-2005, 04:50 PM
Wayne, I can't find that other riser to save my life. I guess I'll have to give you a refund. I'll keep looking though. I'll be in Melbourne tomorrow laying out the job.
Joe, not a problem, I am bidding on one on e-bay (after having received this e-mail), so far, $26.00 plus $13.00 shipping,.... but if you find it, even better.

Thanks
Wayne

Cuda
02-16-2005, 05:55 PM
Joe, not a problem, I am bidding on one on e-bay (after having received this e-mail), so far, $26.00 plus $13.00 shipping,.... but if you find it, even better.

Thanks
Wayne

Cool. Undoubtably what will happen is I will find it the minute you win the bid. :redface:

onesubdrvr
02-20-2005, 09:20 AM
Well,

Thank's to Jamie, I have gotten back preliminary desk top dyno results that are showing around 340hp :eek!: . Me likey likey!! :D, although the TRUE test will be on the water. Everything is here now except for my exhaust, the Stbd. riser is on the way, I will be placing exhaust tips on order Monday, and my 85* elbows should ship like Tuesday, then all I'll need is some 4" exhaust tube to make it from my elbows to the hull.

I told the machinist building my block that I'd like it Yellow, he found a nice, shiney "Daytona" Yellow and it looks great!! I'll shoot some pictures off next weekend when the new baby comes home. In the mean time, I'm taking some time to strip and polish some parts, like oil and fuel filter blocks, mounting brackets / etc. I think they'll look great, and match the boat too. And also some time to pretty the boat up, I've replaced some broken plastic pieces aroung the windshield / etc. with stainless steel, and have gotten some clear stuff to brighten up the gloss of the white gel.

I can't wait to be where GCarter is at and finally get to run this enging!! It certainley is an exciting time for me!!

Until Later,
Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-20-2005, 09:30 AM
Well,

Thank's to Jamie, I have gotten back preliminary desk top dyno results that are showing around 340hp :eek!: . Me likey likey!! :D, although the TRUE test will be on the water. Everything is here now except for my exhaust, the Stbd. riser is on the way, I will be placing exhaust tips on order Monday, and my 85* elbows should ship like Tuesday, then all I'll need is some 4" exhaust tube to make it from my elbows to the hull.

I told the machinist building my block that I'd like it Yellow, he found a nice, shiney "Daytona" Yellow and it looks great!! I'll shoot some pictures off next weekend when the new baby comes home. In the mean time, I'm taking some time to strip and polish some parts, like oil and fuel filter blocks, mounting brackets / etc. I think they'll look great, and match the boat too. And also some time to pretty the boat up, I've replaced some broken plastic pieces aroung the windshield / etc. with stainless steel, and have gotten some clear stuff to brighten up the gloss of the white gel.

I can't wait to be where GCarter is at and finally get to run this enging!! It certainley is an exciting time for me!!

Until Later,
Wayne

Cuda
02-20-2005, 02:36 PM
Wayne, I have yellow engines in my Formula, and I HIGHLY reccomend black.

onesubdrvr
02-20-2005, 07:40 PM
Wayne, I have yellow engines in my Formula, and I HIGHLY reccomend black.Well Joe,

I guess I could have him change it, but I don't want to pay the extra, I should have asked before I did it,....anyone else running anything other than grey or black? how do ya like it?

Hey Joe, I got a riser, will ship out to me Monday, don't worry about the $$, we'll meet up again some time and when we do, we'll even up, and if you find it, I'll keep a spare!!

Wayne

MOP
02-21-2005, 10:37 AM
Well Joe,

I guess I could have him change it, but I don't want to pay the extra, I should have asked before I did it,....anyone else running anything other than grey or black? how do ya like it?

Hey Joe, I got a riser, will ship out to me Monday, don't worry about the $$, we'll meet up again some time and when we do, we'll even up, and if you find it, I'll keep a spare!!

Wayne

Wayne lighter colors show dirt quicker (mostly belt dust), but also lets you see the source of any leakage easier. Hey paint the manifolds black it will look like an angry Bee!

onesubdrvr
02-21-2005, 10:50 AM
Wayne lighter colors show dirt quicker (mostly belt dust), but also lets you see the source of any leakage easier. Hey paint the manifolds black it will look like an angry Bee!
Actually, now that you mention it Phil,

The manifolds are black, and so are the heads (why mess up the factory paint on them, it looks good), Risers will get painted again though, should look pretty cool. The interior (of the boat itself) is light grey, dark grey, black and yellow, so I'm going to be close on the colors, and of course, Stainless Steel!

Wayne

onesubdrvr
02-24-2005, 06:03 PM
Well,

Had a problem with getting sent the wrong main studs - so now I'm waiting for those to finish getting the block assembled !!:mad: Oh well, I'll have to suck it up. In the mean time, Jamie was kind enough to run my set up on his desk top dyno, and it's looking like about 315hp to the prop,...... a little less than I wanted to be, but I think it'll be plenty for this boat.

In the mean time, I'm going over some stuff that I'm going to have to do when I get the motor back and am looking for some knowledge.

1st, Difference in engine mounts (how far forward am I going to have to move my rear mounts)
2nd I've gotten the Pertronix II ingnition / coil, and MSD ESA module. I've done some reading, and it talks about removing the resistance wire, need help here identifying it.
3rd Outdrive, while I've got it off for the engine swap, I plan on painting it, I've read ZincChromate primer and Epoxy paint,...OK?
4th IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD DO WHILE THERE IS NO ENGINE IN THE BOAT?
5th Anything mechanical or electrical that I'm missing

Thanks
Wayne

Rootsy
02-24-2005, 08:20 PM
If it is not easy to get to with the motor installed... then replace the bilge pump...

motor mounts... rear mounts on bellhousing are the same... front ones are the same width... i had a drawing somewhere i made when a fellow member swapped from a V6 to a V8 in a 16 classic... i'll have to look for it... not sure if the motor mount position moves fore or aft on the V6 to V8...

Cuda
02-24-2005, 08:57 PM
Rootsy, what info do you need to run the desktop dyno?

Rootsy
02-25-2005, 06:26 AM
Rootsy, what info do you need to run the desktop dyno?

bore and stroke
cylinder head mfg and flavor.. or better yet.. actual airflow #'s
valve sizes
static compression ratio
type of intake (mfg and flavor)
carburator size and # of venturis - you can also do supercharger and turbo apps with custom parameter inputs
type of exhaust
camshaft type - lifter, ie hydraulic, solid, hydraulic roller, etc
advertised duration (In / Ex)
duration @ .050 (In / Ex)
intake valve centerline as installed
lobe seperation angle
gross valve lift with whatever rocker you are using
OR all individual timing events @ advertised and @ .050

you can model 2 ways, utilizing the advertised numbers or .050 numbers... in conjunction the program attempts to make a linear representation of lifter rise to see how aggressive the cam lobe is so it can extrapolate a valve opening and closing cycle... you ideally really truly need more info than this but it gets you "close"

onesubdrvr
02-27-2005, 12:53 PM
Well, as of 1:30 today, I have the old engine out of the boat and most accessories removed (that are going on the new engine).
Hopefully this afternoon I can clean the bilge, move the forward motor mounts forward 4", and remove the old bilge pump.

Schedule is to install new bilge pump Monday, Should have engine back Tuesday, Tuesday night, install all accessories onto new engine, Wednesday, place into position in boat, Thursday, run exhaust, connect all wiring, check all bolts for tightness. Friday, re-install drive, change all fluids. Saturday,....fire it up.

I HOPE I CAN KEEP THIS SCHEDULE!!!

As allways, tentatively,
Wayne

onesubdrvr
03-01-2005, 03:50 PM
Well,

I'm happy with my progress, I've replaced the bilge pump, cleaned the bilge, moved the engine mount, painted the upper 1/2 of the out drive, now I wait, waiting for the engine. Was supposed to get it today, now it looks like I'm not getting it until Thursday!! AND only 16 days until Dora,....ugggghhhh.

Oh well, so I guess tomorrow is pretty much shot, I'll touch up the paint on the gimble housing, finish the paint on the valve covers, pulley's / etc. Thursday pick up engine AND place in boat, then the rest of the schedule should be OK, but,...... I HATE relying on other people, even though no promises were made for today, I feel let down.

I knew I was cutting it close, the rest of my exhaust parts will not be here until Thursday. I REALLY want to get it in the water on Sat / Sun for some break in time so that I can run it a little harder at Dora

Speaking of which, what is the recommended break in for a rebuilt engine?

Wayne

onesubdrvr
03-05-2005, 11:43 PM
Well,

Tuesday was shot for the engine, so was Thursday, didn't get it home until 5pm Friday night,......

So as of right now, I have the flywheel, coupling and bellhousing back on, motor mounts back on, starter back on, crank pulley back on, Tomorrow I will re-install the wiring harness, exhaust manifold studs, Carb to intake manifold, then I'm at another wall, because I managed to leave the remainder of my gaskets at the engine shop :banghead: (water pump, exhaust manifold, valve cover)---I MAY go to my local parts place and pick up what I need -or atleast the water pump gaskets-, but as I've got in-laws in town, time will be short anyway. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif I do think that I will try to get the engine back in the boat tomorrow as well. The rest of the work I can do with it in place.

So, looks like I have to deal with the dissapointment of not being on the water for another weekend.:embarasse This unfortunately only gives me 1 weekend of break in before Dora.

Oh well, only 1 week of a break-in period before Dora is better than sitting at home, trying to get it done! Besides, I managed to replace the lower shift cable while I was doing all this and think that I will find my shift problem will be gone (man that old cable was stiff).http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif

Engine work was more $$ and time than I thought it would be, but I'll know for next time. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif

The new engine does look good (except for my attempt at a paint job on the valve covers), so that makes me happy http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/biggrin.gif, I'll shoot some pics when I get the rest of the auxiliaries on.

Eternally Tardy,
Wayne

onesubdrvr
03-07-2005, 08:10 PM
Well,

Got the engine in the boat today (YEAAAHHH), should have no problem getting it in the water this weekend. I still have to hook up all the wiring, intake manifold, fuel / carb / etc. Re-install the out-drive, run the exhaust, and finish up the paint on the lower unit. Do you post the .wav files the same way?

Wayne

gcarter
03-07-2005, 08:15 PM
Wayne, the Christmas lights are a nice touch! :biggrin: :shocking: :yes:

onesubdrvr
03-09-2005, 08:28 PM
Well,

Engine is in the boat, intake, carb, thermostat housing on,

Not much left, power steering cooler, all electric connections, all filters and fluids, fuel lines, check tighten all bolts, re-install out drive, replace out drive water pump, all control linkages. Oh yeah, and the new pimp'in exhaust!!:pimp:

UNFORTUNATELY IT HASN'T STOPPED RAINING HERE FOR TWO DAYS!!:angryfire

I think if I EVER get a full day of work on it I'll be able to get it done, hopefully It'll be done by Saturday though so I can get it wet!!:boat:

onesubdrvr
03-14-2005, 08:55 PM
Well,

I'm hiding here from Matty as he's crackin the whip for me to get my boat running, probably because I'm 2 weeks behind where I wanted to be, ;) BUT, I'm almost there.

Engine is in and complete (except exhaust), STBD side exhaust exit cut and fitted. Port will be done tomorrow. Outdrive back on.

All that is left
1) Exhaust
2) adjustment of shift cable linkage
3) Fuel lines - pump to carb.
4) move battery tray due to #1
5) new side vents and hose
6) touch up paint on lower unit.

I'm hoping to have port exhaust exit cut and fit tomorrow, at this rate though, it looks like I may not be ready for Dora - unless we are running Sunday too. But, who knows, depending on work schedule, I may take Friday off to get it done

Wayne

Cuda
03-14-2005, 09:10 PM
Keep at it Wayne! I sure hope you make it to Dora. Are you going to come even if you don't have the boat ready? At this point, I don't know if I'm going to have mine. :(

BUIZILLA
03-14-2005, 09:16 PM
welp, I am now in thrash mode myself... geez, doesn't it ever end...

JH

MOP
03-14-2005, 10:23 PM
Got my :crossfing for you! You do deserve a pat on the back and an "A" for effort!

Phil

onesubdrvr
03-14-2005, 10:40 PM
Well fella's, thanks for the votes of confidence and the pep talk,...

I'm really striving to make it, as of right now, 50 - 50, but, all my testing will be done at Dora if I make it instead of before, but Hey, if I need a tow, no better time than at an event (although I'd become the new FishBoy, a title I KNOW he's dying to get rid of).

Anyway, was in the garage making another hit list, we'll have to wait and see!!

I'll try to make it either way.

Wayne

MOP
03-14-2005, 11:33 PM
Wayne just show up and run her easy, drink a lot and have fun.

Phil

onesubdrvr
03-19-2005, 02:12 AM
Wayne just show up and run her easy, drink a lot and have fun.

Phil
Well, I'm wrapping up work for the night,














ENGINE COMPLETE
EXHAUST COMPLETE

:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

Note though the time, 3:06am, cranked it over, but battery didn't hold up very well during the down time http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif

So, tomorrow, install hose, charge battery, start (I HOPE!!)

Therefore, I'm not making Dora,...... After I get it running tomorrow, it's all the small stuff, engine bulkhead, engine box, stern hand rail, etc. etc. A good washing, and HOPEFULLY, some time on the water!!

Until later,
Wayne

MOP
03-19-2005, 07:13 AM
it's all the small stuff

I know just what you mean, its the final details that drive you nuts and take the most time.

Phil

Cuda
03-19-2005, 08:11 AM
Good luck with it Wayne, at least you are farther ahead than I am, and I took mine for professional help. :frown: :angryfire

joseph m. hahnl
03-19-2005, 12:08 PM
[QUOTE=Rootsy]take the connecting rods, crankshaft and cylinder heads along with you... they all need some machine work done...

if the block is solid have them hot tank it, punch the bores and make sure the decks are flat. They will hone it when they fit your pistons, once you receive the rebuild kit.



you guy's are pretty funny. your telling this guy remachine, remachine that, do this do that. there is a thing called tolerence that all machined components on anything manufactured in the world have. be fore you make any dicision on what needs to be machined you need to either inspect"measure" all the components your self>or have some one do it for you . if you do it your self. you need a bore gage<or snap gages. and at least a 3" 4" micrometer. there is a tolerance spec on every component the crank journals. throws connecting rod,s pistons, bores. . if they fall in to the specification. there is no need to remachine it.any time you deviate from the stock sizes you increase the possibiloity of failure. remachining is acually a micky job because it less expensive than replacing.cast iron is very hard and the wear usually comes from the softer materials such as bearings and rings. they also sell bearing in different sizes.to eliminate the need for machining. pistons will wear before the iron sleave. my point is before you spend any money you need to inspect every thing. MEASURE, MEASURE,MEASURE, IF IT"S IN SPEC DON"T MACHINE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the only thing that would be a must is a valve job. because if you have any leaking in the exhaust valves. the exhaust gasses will melt them. machining doesn't come cheap either. average cost of a machine shop is $60.00 an hour. if your going to do that much rework on it you would have been better of buying a fully assembled remanufactured long block. again be fore you spend any money on parts. measure it. if you have some one else measure it have them give you an inspection report. that way you can see for your self what is in spec and what is'nt. if it had low hrs on it everything is probably just fine. and can be asembled with minimal parts.just to give a for instance. i inspected a ford 255cid that had 88,000 miles never had the oil changed and there was not one component that was out of factory specifications.

onesubdrvr
03-20-2005, 04:03 PM
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!


DO A LITTLE DANCE

MAKE A LITTLE LOVE

GET DOWN TONIGHT!!

THE BEAST LIVES!! - Finally, after being 180* out on timing (some how) -- Anyway IT RUNS AND SOUNDS GREEEAAATT!!

:biggrin: http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/yippie.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/tongue.gifarty: :checkered :bighug:

gcarter
03-20-2005, 04:11 PM
Congratulations!!! :yippie:
I well remember the experience. :biggrin:

Cuda
03-20-2005, 04:26 PM
Congratulations!!! :yippie:
I well remember the experience. :biggrin:

Unfortunately, I still waiting for that experience. :bawling:

Congratulations Wayne.

MOP
03-20-2005, 05:41 PM
A few of us know the feeling, at least I heard mine run on the busted dyno ant the machine shop. Now it is finally in the boat have to get cracking on setting things up so I too can go and play.

Phil

onesubdrvr
03-20-2005, 07:03 PM
Oh yeah, hey Wayne, it's really time to take the Christmas lights down :D :D :D


Did I say congrats on the fire up?? :)
Thanks everyone,....


Well, I'm confident enough now to send in my registration for the Angel Aid gig, will probably do that Monday. But hoping that as this Friday is Good Friday, and I have off, sounds like a good day for about 8 hours of water time.

AS FAR AS THE CHRISTMAS LIGHTS GO, :rolleyes: I know I know, but I was using them for additional lighting when I was working on the boat all those late nights!! YEAH, THAT'S IT, THAT'S THE TICKET!! :biggrin:

MOP
03-20-2005, 07:52 PM
COP OUT!

onesubdrvr
03-20-2005, 08:24 PM
you guy's are pretty funny. your telling this guy remachine, remachine that, do this do that. there is a thing called tolerence that all machined components on anything manufactured in the world have. be fore you make any dicision on what needs to be machined you need to either inspect"measure" all the components your self>or have some one do it for you . if you do it your self. you need a bore gage<or snap gages. and at least a 3" 4" micrometer. there is a tolerance spec on every component the crank journals. throws connecting rod,s pistons, bores. . if they fall in to the specification. there is no need to remachine it.any time you deviate from the stock sizes you increase the possibiloity of failure. remachining is acually a micky job because it less expensive than replacing.cast iron is very hard and the wear usually comes from the softer materials such as bearings and rings. they also sell bearing in different sizes.to eliminate the need for machining. pistons will wear before the iron sleave. my point is before you spend any money you need to inspect every thing. MEASURE, MEASURE,MEASURE, IF IT"S IN SPEC DON"T MACHINE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the only thing that would be a must is a valve job. because if you have any leaking in the exhaust valves. the exhaust gasses will melt them. machining doesn't come cheap either. average cost of a machine shop is $60.00 an hour. if your going to do that much rework on it you would have been better of buying a fully assembled remanufactured long block. again be fore you spend any money on parts. measure it. if you have some one else measure it have them give you an inspection report. that way you can see for your self what is in spec and what is'nt. if it had low hrs on it everything is probably just fine. and can be asembled with minimal parts.just to give a for instance. i inspected a ford 255cid that had 88,000 miles never had the oil changed and there was not one component that was out of factory specifications.

I appreciate what you are saying,....... I'm a young buck at 32, but started doing mechanical work at the even younger age of about 13, and have been around it all my life.
I am a certified diesel technician, air compressor technician and refrigeration guy. I understand about tolerences and appreciate what you are saying. I however did the rebuild for 2 reasons, (1) more power - yes that could have been achieved without machining the crank, cylinders / etc. but (2) Reliability: in my opinion, you don't just take something apart and put it back together. There was alot of stuff I could have done - my rods checked good / etc. BUT, I don't plan on taking this apart after 200 hours and rechecking the tolerances and redoing it - I will only take it apart if I have to. My opinion and option was to put in new rods and pistons (better quality and new - thus if a part is good for say 10million cycles, the new ones are starting from scratch, not 1/2 way or more there). Does reliability suffer when machined - I can debate that either way - if replacing with oe quality parts yes, if going with better than OE parts - no.
ANYWAY, I appreciate your input, and like I said, if budget was my sole issue 1) I wouldn't have a Donzi
2) I would have done exactly that - only what had to be done.

-I hope that my path crosses that of each and everyone that gave me input on my engine, and as far as that goes, everyone on the board.

Wayne

onesubdrvr
03-20-2005, 08:48 PM
A few of us know the feeling, at least I heard mine run on the busted dyno ant the machine shop. Now it is finally in the boat have to get cracking on setting things up so I too can go and play.

Phil
Phil,
Glad to see your boat is home now, it's nice having it there, you have 30 minutes to kill, you can do one of the many small things that needs to get done. Anyway, I hope things go smooth for you, and that you are waiting for the weather to get better to run it, not hoping to get it done before the weather gets bad again.

Wayne

Rootsy
03-20-2005, 10:17 PM
[QUOTE=Rootsy]take the connecting rods, crankshaft and cylinder heads along with you... they all need some machine work done...

if the block is solid have them hot tank it, punch the bores and make sure the decks are flat. They will hone it when they fit your pistons, once you receive the rebuild kit.



you guy's are pretty funny. your telling this guy remachine, remachine that, do this do that. there is a thing called tolerence that all machined components on anything manufactured in the world have. be fore you make any dicision on what needs to be machined you need to either inspect"measure" all the components your self>or have some one do it for you . if you do it your self. you need a bore gage<or snap gages. and at least a 3" 4" micrometer. there is a tolerance spec on every component the crank journals. throws connecting rod,s pistons, bores. . if they fall in to the specification. there is no need to remachine it.any time you deviate from the stock sizes you increase the possibiloity of failure. remachining is acually a micky job because it less expensive than replacing.cast iron is very hard and the wear usually comes from the softer materials such as bearings and rings. they also sell bearing in different sizes.to eliminate the need for machining. pistons will wear before the iron sleave. my point is before you spend any money you need to inspect every thing. MEASURE, MEASURE,MEASURE, IF IT"S IN SPEC DON"T MACHINE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the only thing that would be a must is a valve job. because if you have any leaking in the exhaust valves. the exhaust gasses will melt them. machining doesn't come cheap either. average cost of a machine shop is $60.00 an hour. if your going to do that much rework on it you would have been better of buying a fully assembled remanufactured long block. again be fore you spend any money on parts. measure it. if you have some one else measure it have them give you an inspection report. that way you can see for your self what is in spec and what is'nt. if it had low hrs on it everything is probably just fine. and can be asembled with minimal parts.just to give a for instance. i inspected a ford 255cid that had 88,000 miles never had the oil changed and there was not one component that was out of factory specifications.


welp if you don;t like how i do things or the advice i give.. i guess my track record will have to speak for itself... pretty close to the 200 mark for engines developed, built and thoroughly flogged on in my lifetime and i am yet to have one come apart... anything from a lowly 2 cylinder hercules NXB in my 39 John deere L (when was the last time you rebabbited a rod bearing?) all the way to hastily assembly of a 410 cid rodeck aluminum, kinsler injected sprint car motor... and a whole lotta stuff in between...

no one needs to speak tolerances to me... as a mechanical engineer, and mechanic i feel i am pretty competent at what i do and what i say... but tolerances are one thing and go right out the window when installing NEW parts in used castings... machine the castings to dimensions for use with NEW components.. hello?????....but most folks forget to take into account the Geometric tolerancing on components... you know.. perpendicularity, concentricity, runout, roundness, flatness, parallelism... etc etc etc... this is what you are correcting when you machine used engine components...

JR

mattyboy
03-21-2005, 09:06 AM
Rootsy,
it is amazing that your 16 even runs 75 :rolleyes: ;) :tongue: let alone almost 80 you must be lucky or something :) ;) :rlol: Luck has nothin to do with it!!!! :yes:
I was with ya there for awhile then you went techy on me and I lost ya
parallelagram what, isolinear who?? geometry I walked on that side of the school once :)

Sorry Jamie all I can picture when I read this was the scene in good fellas when Joe Pesce goes ballistic, "I'm funny, like a clown, like I'm here to amuse you??, Funny how?? ha ha funny, what do you mean funny

I do know that you do build a serious motor !!! :yes:

anyway ain't I the funny guy with the 16??



HELLO HELLO IS THIS THING ON
COME IN TOKYO
GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM???
AM I GETTING THROUGH??

Rootsy
03-21-2005, 09:12 AM
Rootsy,
it is amazing that your 16 even runs 75 :rolleyes: ;) :tongue: let alone almost 80 you must be lucky or something :) ;) :rlol: Luck has nothin to do with it!!!! :yes:
I was with ya there for awhile then you went techy on me and I lost ya
parallelagram what, isolinear who?? geometry I walked on that side of the school once :)

Sorry Jamie all I can picture when I read this was the scene in good fellas when Joe Pesce goes ballistic, "I'm funny, like a clown, like I'm here to amuse you??, Funny how?? ha ha funny, what do you mean funny

I do know that you do build a serious motor !!! :yes:

anyway ain't I the funny guy with the 16??



HELLO HELLO IS THIS THING ON
COME IN TOKYO
GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM???
AM I GETTING THROUGH??

almost 80 ??????????????? :boggled: http://www.donzi.net/forums/images/smilies/outtahere.gif

mattyboy
03-21-2005, 09:17 AM
sorry 80 + no almost ;) is that with Factory specs for the 16??

joseph m. hahnl
03-21-2005, 05:10 PM
[QUOTE=joseph m. hahnl]


welp if you don;t like how i do things or the advice i give.. i guess my track record will have to speak for itself... pretty close to the 200 mark for engines developed, built and thoroughly flogged on in my lifetime and i am yet to have one come apart... anything from a lowly 2 cylinder hercules NXB in my 39 John deere L (when was the last time you rebabbited a rod bearing?) all the way to hastily assembly of a 410 cid rodeck aluminum, kinsler injected sprint car motor... and a whole lotta stuff in between...

no one needs to speak tolerances to me... as a mechanical engineer, and mechanic i feel i am pretty competent at what i do and what i say... but tolerances are one thing and go right out the window when installing NEW parts in used castings... machine the castings to dimensions for use with NEW components.. hello?????....but most folks forget to take into account the Geometric tolerancing on components... you know.. perpendicularity, concentricity, runout, roundness, flatness, parallelism... etc etc etc... this is what you are correcting when you machine used engine components...

JR

wuups I didn't mean to get you all fired up. i,m sure your a very competent person. don't get me wrong. i fully under stand geometric tolerance . after all i use it every day in my job when i machine parts < i have made parts for NASA JPL even Boing. i use a 20 thousand dollar CMM> and have access to an 80 thousand dollar cnc CMM (coordinate measuring machine) not that that means anything about engines. so i do understand what your saying and you make a valid point.and yes if you use over sized anything obviosly you would need to remachine to fit it. i have been repairing crap my hole life and i get buy pretty good with out wasting money on unneeded costs. .i think to fully understand the properties of alloys and part trama you need to actuallly machine something . iron is actually one of the hardest and most stable elements on earth . there's a big difference between a parts replacer and a machanic."not that your a parts replacer" but in any case if he would rather spend money on the things that are not real horse power gaining elements that his choice. but i personally would keep things to minimum and poor the money into things that increase horse power cam,rollerrockers,manifold ,headers,carbuerator,
oversized valves.

joseph m. hahnl
03-21-2005, 05:32 PM
Yeah, I've built a bong or three in my life too... I think..... :eek: :confused: :rolleyes: :biggrin.: :wrench:
quit bogarting and pass that over here

onesubdrvr
03-21-2005, 07:44 PM
but in any case if he would rather spend money on the things that are not real horse power gaining elements that his choice. but i personally would keep things to minimum and poor the money into things that increase horse power cam,rollerrockers,manifold ,headers,carbuerator,
oversized valves.

Uhhhh,....you don't have to talk about him like he's not here :wavey: , you obviously have not followed everything on this post, so I will now recreate for you what I did to my engine,....
http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
Roller Cam - performance, not stock, hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers, vortec heads, edelbrock manifold and carb, not HEI, but better than stock ignition. Up to about 315hp from 260hp. So uhhhh, yeah, spent a little money there too.http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif

Really, little machine work done as heads were new (except for some spring upgrades). Basically just machined the crank and cylinders, I put new rods in (SCAT), and new Hyper pistons (once again not power gainers, but I believe to be better than stock). Melling HV oil pump, Cloyes Chain, uh, not a ton of machine work.

Anyway, as I said earlier, all input was requested and appreciated on this build and I truley do hope to cross paths with everyone

Wayne

Rootsy
03-21-2005, 07:48 PM
Yeah, I've built a bong or three in my life too... I think..... :eek: :confused: :rolleyes: :biggrin.: :wrench:

but i didn't inhale... :redface:

joseph m. hahnl
03-22-2005, 03:38 PM
Uhhhh,....you don't have to talk about him like he's not here :wavey: , you obviously have not followed everything on this post, so I will now recreate for you what I did to my engine,....
http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
Roller Cam - performance, not stock, hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers, vortec heads, edelbrock manifold and carb, not HEI, but better than stock ignition. Up to about 315hp from 260hp. So uhhhh, yeah, spent a little money there too.http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif

Really, little machine work done as heads were new (except for some spring upgrades). Basically just machined the crank and cylinders, I put new rods in (SCAT), and new Hyper pistons (once again not power gainers, but I believe to be better than stock). Melling HV oil pump, Cloyes Chain, uh, not a ton of machine work.

Anyway, as I said earlier, all input was requested and appreciated on this build and I truley do hope to cross paths with everyone

Wayne

OOPS Wayne: i am truely sorry in my haste i didn't read thru all of the post.
and as it appears you probably had allready done most or all of what you have done. so any way i apologize to you and to A.K.A.Rootsy. you do what you beleive in and the end result is something you are proud of. you Know how every one wants the last word "HUMAN NATURE" right or wrong. if i stop and open my mind i learned something from both of you and for that matter everybody.what i learn the most is sometimes you have to put your foot in your mouth before you clean the poop out of your ears. not to say i was wrong in my statements but that i fully understand the points made and that from following these ideas the end result is the best that it could possibly be.which translate to nothing but the best for my donzi. once again i appologize for any ill feelings i may have caused any body and for the record i did inhale and i say to you have a hit on me.

onesubdrvr
03-22-2005, 03:51 PM
OOPS Wayne: i am truley sorry in my haste i didn't read thru all of the post.
and as it appears you probably had allready done most or all of what you have done. so any way i apologize to you

No problem, like I said, all input was and is desired. I am very happy with how it turned out, runs great, and you can feel the power there. OF COURSE, I won't have the true test until Friday when I get it out on the water - ANY TOW BOATS AVAILABLE (lol)?

Wayne

onesubdrvr
03-25-2005, 01:16 PM
Oh yeah, hey Wayne, it's really time to take the Christmas lights down :D :D :D


Did I say congrats on the fire up?? :)
WHAT Christmas lights??:D

onesubdrvr
05-16-2005, 03:49 PM
Well, the results are in and are as follows,....
Plugging 315 PSHP into the Theo speed calculator, I show a Theo speed of 65 MPH.
Using that,....I came up with the following

Turbo I 22p prop
5200 RPM
Speed (GPS) 59.5 - 4 people, cooler, 3/4 full fuel, no power steering at the time.
Prop Slip - 9%

I think I might be able to milk another 1 or 2 out if I get rid of the crowd, loose some fuel, and get P/S back so I can trim out, which makes me think that the HP I plugged in might be a little low (5 hp or so)

I'm pretty happy with that, 60mph out of a Rag,... close to the 22zx with the 350 mag speeds (of course, there is ALOT of room to grow power in a ZX, or an 18)

Wayne

Cuda
05-16-2005, 03:56 PM
Nine percent is pretty damn good!

onesubdrvr
08-10-2005, 08:05 PM
Well, the results are in and are as follows,....
Plugging 315 PSHP into the Theo speed calculator, I show a Theo speed of 65 MPH.
Using that,....I came up with the following

Turbo I 22p prop
5200 RPM
Speed (GPS) 59.5 - 4 people, cooler, 3/4 full fuel, no power steering at the time.
Prop Slip - 9%

I think I might be able to milk another 1 or 2 out if I get rid of the crowd, loose some fuel, and get P/S back so I can trim out, which makes me think that the HP I plugged in might be a little low (5 hp or so)

I'm pretty happy with that, 60mph out of a Rag,...
Wayne
Why is enough never enough?


Poppa's been a bad boy,......:biggrin.:

gold-n-rod
08-10-2005, 08:11 PM
Why is enough never enough?


Poppa's been a bad boy,......:biggrin.:

Has he got a brand new bag? [/motown]

:cool:

Cuda
08-10-2005, 08:14 PM
Have you run it since getting the drive back?

onesubdrvr
08-10-2005, 08:17 PM
Have you run it since getting the drive back?
Nope, :confused: hoping that we all get together this weekend, but we'll have to wait and see. I just put the 1st coat of color on the drive (painted it myself to save a little change), but it's ready to go (with the obvious exception of needing a quick wash and stow)

Wayne

onesubdrvr
08-10-2005, 11:20 PM
Has he got a brand new bag? [/motown]

:cool:
Bag 'o Goodies on the way!!

:D

Wayne