is this a marine motor?

[turboed]

i wandering if this is a automotive motor or marine,cause im going to be boating in salt water,is on a 22 classic,thanks

[olredalert]

---------Well.............Its in a boat!.........But you just havent given us anywhere near the info we would need to make that call.
---------Actually, upon a closer look I see an aluminum manifold which wouldnt be the best when exposed to the dreaded killer salt!...............Bill S

[MOP]

You can get decent time out of aluminum in salt just look at all the outboards and stern drives out there. I have seen several boats with aluminum exhaust that actually got better time out of the manifolds then cast iron. But that is not the case with intake manifolds they go to hell a lot quicker from what I feel is the poor quality aluminum used to make them, you can slow the damage down somewhat installing a zinc. Your motor is so pretty I would put a F/W cooling kit on it, though if you flush religiously with fresh after every use you can get decent time out of the aluminum.

Phil

[turboed]

well thanks for all the replies the reason i dont have more info is cause the boat is not mine yet,but the boat is always in fresh water and i just thought that it might have automotive power.and all my boating is in salt water so i just want to make sure it could handle it,i think the owner said it was an hp 500,the motor is in a 22 classic.

[gcarter]

I agree w/Phil about fresh water cooling. It's a small investment compared to a new engine.
http://www.oceaneastmarine.com/

:wavey:

[Cuda]

A performance marine mechanic I used in Clearwater told me he ran a set of aluminum heads in salt water for seven years, took them off and sold them. It depends on your maintanence.

[turboed]

i beleive it,anyway i think it has iron heads and the owner of the boat told me is a marine crate motor from marine power called 500x and is supposed to make 500hp.

[knots2u]

Marine Power (http://www.marinepowerusa.com) 500x
502ci, 502hp @5200, 560 ft/lbs @4200
Forged crank, 4 bolt mains
Forged pistons
Hyd roller cam
110cc Alum heads, oval port
Holley 800cfm Demon carb
Gil Alum manifolds w/stainless risers

Marine Power EFI version is 539hp & 572 ft/lbs

[MOP]

Should be a real nice runner with that package, that is what I call a WOLF motor! The boys like Doc & Road Trip and many others that run the big ones are in my mind now grouped as "THE WOLF PACK" :checkered :checkered :smile:

MOP

[turboed]

claimed 75mph and i don't doubt it.

[vonkamp]

While we are on the subject, what makes a marine motor different from automotive?
I would like to buy a crate motor ( Summit Racing catalog ) for mine and was wondering what would have to be made different other than carb,and alt., or is this just the wrong thing to do?

[MOP]

Mainly pistons and bearings are a tougher grade, head gasket material and cam, automotive cams can suck water back into the motor. A marine engine is under far more stress than it automotive counter part. There are some good deals on marine crate motors, many have been listed up here. I have about 5 sites book marked, if you need them mail me.

Phil

[turboed]

mop got the list right and don't forget freeze plugs are also different,but if you're boating in fresh water don't worry about it.

[Walt. H.]

M.P
"TRW Clevite#77" they are harder less prown to spinning at high rpm's but do not like to embed dirt as well as the softer bearings found in regular production street engines. :smash:

Walt

[Rootsy]

last i knew... bearings "spun" when there was a lack of oil (call that a lack of Clearance) supporting the crankshaft or rod... :banghead:

J

PS as an FYI... my MARINE shortblock from mercury... is a production sbc from GM... there is nothing special ... cast dished pistons, PM rods, 2 bolt main... basically NOTHING SPECIAL... oh well there are a few different main bolts so the windage tray will mount i reckon...

[MOP]

Jamie is right, I have seen a lot of basic automotive engines in lighter fast boats that had no problems at all. I feel the marine engine comes more into play in the cruisers where they are under heavier loads for longer periods. As far as I know all marine engine manufacturers follow the same basic marine guide lines when building their motors. Even when you go on crate motor sites they will state for or not for marine use in their engine line up. I feel if you want longevity the extra bucks are well spent, no such thing as overkill when building an engine. You are not talking a ton of bucks, the doubt removal is worth it.

Phil

[Walt. H.]

Yes James, :chillpill Don't bang your head that part is true regarding clearance's but race or any hi-performance engine bottom end as you know take much more of a pounding due to heavier loads of making more H/P and rpm's, and that is all transmitted through the connecting rods, bearings and to the crank. This is why hipo parts are beefier. We used to pin the rod bearings to the rods for that reason and not rely on the "bearing tab" to insure they stay in place and not tear off from centrifugal force, but that doesn't have to be done anymore when using Clevite 77 bearings (they are harder less prown to fatigue) unless your building something like a top fuel engine for a AA/FD or AA/FC even a pro mod with nitrous oxide. When the guys pull the bottom end down between runs, one of the reasons are, their looking to see if the bearings are starting to move and catch it before it happens.

That why one fellows engine survives longer then his competitor's. :yes:

Walt