Break's over!

[gcarter]

A man died and went to Hell.
It wasn't a big surprise to the man that he ended up in Hell, for he had lived his whole life for the moment without any regard for God, or eternity.
After his arrival in Hell, the man was given a tour by a demon. While walking down a hallway with his host, the man looked into a room opening off the hallway.
Inside the room was a group of people standing chest deep in s**t.
"Oh my God" exclaimed the man to himself. "This is terrible"
"But I guess it could be worse!!"
At just about that moment another demon walked into the room and announced to the people "OK, break's over....
back on your heads!" :smash: :jestera:

And so starts my own voyage down the road to deck and fuel tank removal and foaming in a new one.
I got the deck off yesterday, today I'm removing the old tank and preparing to install the new one.
I have managed to lease an additional warehouse behind my business. It is perfect for this type of undertaking, 24' X 48' w/ 12' high truss type roof.
The deck will probably be off most of the rest of the month. If anyone wants to see a Minx w/o all of its parts, come on by.
My office # is 352-365-2337, my cell is 352-267-9801.
The location of my office is 2315 Griffin Rd, Suite 9, Leesburg, FL.
The warehouse is behind this building in a separate building on the back of the property and it's 2323 #4.
I'll be posting pictures as I go along, maybe tonight. :wavey:

[Tony]

Best of luck, George...shoot me an e-mail if you have any questions.

[Morgan's Cloud]

Yep ,, know that feeling real well . Been living it for quite a while now !

Tony .... I had asked a few questions of you about your foaming experience on your deck off post but not heard anything more ..

What can you tell me about how much was'nt enough..(you ran out right ?) and how it handled etc . You were using the 4lb right ?

I'm still waiting for mine to arrive and there is nothing more I can do to continue the project at this stage :lookaroun

Steve

[gcarter]

So here are a few pics of the deck off operation.
I messed up today by not taking my camera with me. So the pics of the tank being removed don't exist.
Tomorrow I will post pics of the old tank and the cleanup of the hull.
BTW, Fishboy and Budmann, are these someones initials on the inside of the hull? If so, who is it?
The truss roof worked out well. I put 4X4's across three of the trusses at each end of the boat. Next, I put a 20' strap across the 4X4's and hung two come-alongs on the two strap ends. On the bow end, I used a 2X6 and bolted an eye-bolt through it at the fuel fillhole. At the stern, a 2X6 along with a 2X4 and through-bolted with an eye-bolt in the engine hatch opening.
The gentleman removing screws is one of my service techs, Rick McGuire, who's worked for me for over 12 years. He's also a heck of a C&W singer.

[penbroke]

Good luck! Check/fix/replace everything while the deck is off. Let me know if I can help.

Frank

[marcdups]

George, by the looks of the pics you look a little shaky :shocking: NERVEOUS are we?? Good luck with the project, looks like you are off to a good start.

Towel boy :beer:

[boatnut]

Hi George, not sure what your plans are for new tank, material, installation method etc. I have been doing a lot of research as I am facing the same job soon on my 18 classic owned since 1973. I am convinced that completely foaming in a metal tank (esp aluminum or stainless) is incorrect and will ensure failure again. These metals need air to resist corrosion. No manufacturer today foams in such tanks. As one example of acceptable methods see
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm. I will either use a similar method or look into non-metal tanks. Moisture without a good flow of oxygen (or water with disolved oxygen) will pit stainless or aluminum extremely quickly.
Good Luck and I appreciate you sharing your experience, Ed

[gcarter]

George, by the looks of the pics you look a little shaky :shocking: NERVEOUS are we?? Good luck with the project, looks like you are off to a good start.

Towel boy :beer:
Yes, that's a problem I've had most of my life. I remember going to a doctor and him asking me how much I drink!
Anyone that knows me knows I rarely have a drink. I can't take beta blockers because I have a very slow heart beat.
So I just live with the occasional shaky picture. :D
:wavey:

[gcarter]

I feel that anytime someone does some work like this on a mid '80's Donzi. they need to analyze several areas.
First is the tub or cockpit support on the stringers.
Here are several pictures revealing how Donzi executed this task. In the area immeadiately behind the seat pedastals two small wooden wedges wrapped in wet roving were driven in between the cockpit bottom and the stringer tops. After 18 years the floor has sagged around the wedges and caused damage fore and aft of the wedges.
If you look at the two pictures of the tub bottom, you can see the two wedges (supports) and if you look to the left, you can see the damage the stringers did to the tub bottom. If you could see the top of the cockpit floor, you would see the cracks caused by the pounding on the stringers.
Next you can see the warp caused by the wedges on the port and stbd sides compared to the level.
The third picture shows that the area in front of the pedastals has no support at all and sits on the stringers.
I have conceived of a solution and I will be posting pictures as I go.

[gcarter]

One thing I discovered is you can remove most if not all of the old tabs with a wide wood chisel and a hammer. It saves a tremendous amount of time in almost totally removing any need to grind.

[gcarter]

The tank came out cleanly by sawing the foam out at the shallow (forward) end and lifting out the old tank with a pry bar. The old foam came out in very large pieces, some of them 4' long. The rear foam at the bottom was saturated with water, no fuel.
The old tank was pitted but not leaking (yet). I'm really glad I did this (thank you Donzigo).
Here are some pictures of the old tank and the pitting.
The new tank from RDS came with a heavy coat of primer, and it appears to be ready to install, but I'm going to add more zinc chromate primer.

[CMC]

George, Great work with the camera. Video the project and sell it to the Discovery Channel. :tv:It would be more interesting than Jesse James! Keep up with the posts.

[Cuda]

I feel that anytime someone does some work like this on a mid '80's Donzi. they need to analyze several areas.
First is the tub or cockpit support on the stringers.
Here are several pictures revealing how Donzi executed this task. In the area immeadiately behind the seat pedastals two small wooden wedges wrapped in wet roving were driven in between the cockpit bottom and the stringer tops. After 18 years the floor has sagged around the wedges and caused damage fore and aft of the wedges.
If you look at the two pictures of the tub bottom, you can see the two wedges (supports) and if you look to the left, you can see the damage the stringers did to the tub bottom. If you could see the top of the cockpit floor, you would see the cracks caused by the pounding on the stringers.
Next you can see the warp caused by the wedges on the port and stbd sides compared to the level.
The third picture shows that the area in front of the pedastals has no support at all and sits on the stringers.
I have conceived of a solution and I will be posting pictures as I go.


Stop it George, you're scaring me! :)

Just kidding. I'm enjoying seeing how the boat is put together in case I have to do a tank job in the future. I just got off the phone with my glass guy, he says he'll have it done monday or tuesday, that he fixed everything he could find. I hope it looks good, and I'm dreading seeing the bill.

[gcarter]

Hi George, not sure what your plans are for new tank, material, installation method etc. I have been doing a lot of research as I am facing the same job soon on my 18 classic owned since 1973. I am convinced that completely foaming in a metal tank (esp aluminum or stainless) is incorrect and will ensure failure again. These metals need air to resist corrosion. No manufacturer today foams in such tanks. As one example of acceptable methods ed, I've read this articlesee
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm. I will either use a similar method or look into non-metal tanks. Moisture without a good flow of oxygen (or water with disolved oxygen) will pit stainless or aluminum extremely quickly.
Good Luck and I appreciate you sharing your experience, Ed
Ed, I've read this article before, and while I can't fault it at all, I'm not sure I know how to mount a tank like this in my boat.
The problem as I see it is the tank's bottom sides don't match the shape of the hull. So how do you support the tank bottom without some sort of moldable, watertight material. I'm open if someone can demonstrate a method.

[gcarter]

Stop it George, you're scaring me! :)

Just kidding. I'm enjoying seeing how the boat is put together in case I have to do a tank job in the future. I just got off the phone with my glass guy, he says he'll have it done monday or tuesday, that he fixed everything he could find. I hope it looks good, and I'm dreading seeing the bill.
Yeah Joe, yours is even a little different from this with those hoist points in the cockpit.
You could come by this weekend or sometime next week and see it in person. I'll buy you lunch!

[Cuda]

Yeah Joe, yours is even a little different from this with those hoist points in the cockpit.
You could come by this weekend or sometime next week and see it in person. I'll buy you lunch!


Maybe I can come by with my Minx in tow. :)

[boatnut]

Ed, I've read this article before, and while I can't fault it at all, I'm not sure I know how to mount a tank like this in my boat.
The problem as I see it is the tank's bottom sides don't match the shape of the hull. So how do you support the tank bottom without some sort of moldable, watertight material. I'm open if someone can demonstrate a method.

I understand, and being I haven't looked at a new tank I haven't faced the situation yet. Being you have the tank shaped as the one that was foamed in, could you fabricate a shallow "pan" of glass covered plywood shaped to sit the tank on -- and then foam that into the bottom of the boat with a pvc pipe under it for bilge water--and then mount the tank on top of the fabricated pan as per the article?? I think this part of the bottom (mid-boat between the stringers) is very
stable and does not flex on these Donzis. Any solution that keeps air around the majority of the tank will keep this from happening again. I don't think a mid 80's boat should have a corroded tank. I have a 1964 boat with a steel tank sitting on top of a wood bed in the transom with no problems, and a 1971 Beismeyer with a fiberglass tank with no problem. Solve it for all of us George!!! thanks again, Ed

[gcarter]

Ed, one huge difference is the original tank was not protected in any way. Just plain aluminum.
The new tank is etched and primered. My plan is to attempt to make the surface watertight.

[gcarter]

I had some visitors this morning when I arrived at the shop. Jim And Jena Collins (Catch 22) and Jim's parents who live near me in Lady Lake.
Also Tom Bawsel (Donzi Racer) and his wife Rose stopped by with their 18 on the way back from Alabama. Unfortunately I didn't take their picture.
Jim and Jena thought the Minx's ski storage area is substantially longer than the 22's. What do y'all think.

[gcarter]

The main thing I got done today was to sand almost all of the inside of the hull and paint most of it.
Also I painted parts of the tub (cockpit) that are visible when the boat is assembled. Remember these older boats don't have firewalls. I'm using more of Dr. Dans Snake Oil and Interlux White Bilgecoat. I'm just kidding Dr. Dan, I love the stuff, that's why I've bought more than a gallon of it so far.

[CMC]

George, How do you plan on solving the gap problem between the floor an stringers? Also, how did you apply that bilge coat? Is that a gell coat type product?

[gcarter]

The paint is white Interlux Bilgecoat and I rolled it on with a small roller. It is absolutely wonderful stuff. It applies to EVERYTHING. Comes out smooth like gel but is glossy and is a lot easier to apply. Cleans up great. I can't say enough good things about it. It is available at West Marine for, I think, $25.00/qt, but I get it at Surplus Unlimited in Daytona for less than $14.00/qt. :yippie:
For the tub support system, I will explain when I actually do that particular job.
BTW, here is a pic of the support wedges I knocked off today, and some pics of the damage in the cockpit floor and the tub bottom in the same area.
:wavey:

[catch 22]

Hi George, You got alot done today. We just got home. I told my dad that once we stopped B.S.'ing with you that you would get some work done. Boat really looks good. Let me know how the back seat works out. Thanks for showing us the Minx. Jim :checkered

[Fish boy]

Looking good George. I am sure lots of owners contemplating a project like this will benefit from this thread.

Fish

[Donzigo]

.......told ya, didn't I.

George, you are my new hero.

You do it right every time.

Very nice project.

Donzigo

[Cuda]

See George, I told you that you and Richard are two peas in a pod! Perfectionists! I'm still in training. :)

[gcarter]

Good luck! Check/fix/replace everything while the deck is off. Let me know if I can help.

Frank
Yes, I agree. And that's what I've been doing the last few days.
Several issues have been on the table, such as the 3/4" PVC pipe under the tank used to drain the bow area. The pipe was secured and mounted at each end of the tank by wrapping the pipe w/double sided tape....guaranteed to leak and saturate the foam w/water! Another problem with this pipe, to me, is the fact it is only 3/4". The area of a 3/4" sch. 40 pipe is only .44 sq. in. while a 1" sch.40 pipe has an area of .79 sq. in. Actually I used thin wall 1" pipe like is used in irrigation systems and has almost 1 sq. in. of area. What this means is the bow area will drain more than twice as fast. The only modification required was to increase the hole size in the bulkheads from 1 1/4" dia. to 1 3/8" dia. I mounted the pipe in epoxy and essentially becomes part of the hull structure.

[gcarter]

The bow bulkhead where the fwd. lifting bracket is located has no drain. I used the same 1 3/8" hole saw and cut a hole in the bottom of this bhd. Out came about 1/2 cup of very rancid, very smelly water. I allowed the bhd. to dry out and filled the bottom of the hole so there would be a smooth transition through the bulkhead. I sealed all these holes with epoxy so there will be no future issues. :wavey:

[gcarter]

Another characteristic of the boats of this era, is the method used to attach the deck to the hull. A strip of wood is molded into the top of the hull sides and the deck wraps around the side of the hull about 1 1/4" where a wood screw is screwed through the two pieces. Well guess what, after a number of years the holes enlarge, the screws loosen, and it makes for a very shaky assembly. If you overtighten the screws, they strip the threads in the wood strip. My boat is no different.
My solution is to install 1/4-20 SST T-nuts on the inside of the wood strip. Now if you look at this photo, you'll see they don't fit exactly flat. I will be putting epoxy paste behind them so they will be well supported.
I will be doing the same to the screws through the rub rail where there is room to install the T-nuts.
Additionally, Blue thread locker will be used to retain the threads.
I ended up purchasing 200 of the SST T-nuts, and 100 each of 1/4-20 X 1" and 1/4-20 X 1 1/4" screws for a total cost of about $100.00.

[gcarter]

Ed, one huge difference is the original tank was not protected in any way. Just plain aluminum.
The new tank is etched and primered. My plan is to attempt to make the surface watertight.



The plan here is to make the tank waterproof. I picked MOP's brains, and he suggested Coal Tar Epoxy. :wrench:
This material is really designed for steel and concrete so it is important the tank is thouroughly primered to isolate the aluminum tank from the epoxy. After researching this material, I've come to the conclusion that properly applied, the only way a tank could fail is for corrosion from water inside the tank.
I was required to buy five gallons of the epoxy which has a two year shelf life. It will become apparent how much is reauired to seal a tank. My plan is to make the remainder of the epoxy available to the board members for the actual cost plus handling. The delivery truck will probably be arriving about Friday.
http://www.epoxy.com/216.htm

[CMC]

G, What was the integrety of this wood strip like? Was it damaged over the years? Also will you be re-using the original holes or drilling new ones. I believe your procedure is refered to as through bolting the deck and hull.Usually manufactors just use a lock not. Your system seems like a secure way to go. Continue the good work and posts.Also consider this. I worked for Wellcraft for a while and they had a design flaw on one model.They had a drain tube from a forward storage area(in a cuddy) to the bilge area. Well when the bilge would get water in it, the reverse effect would occur.If the boat was in motion, the water would pitch back up the drain into the cuddy area. The owners could never understand why the storage area in the cuddy was wet. Just my 2 cents.

[gcarter]

The strip is in good shape. I enlarged the holes with a drill bit a few thousandths smaller than the T-nut barrel. I considered using fender washers and lock-nuts but it's so difficult to access so much of the boat. And this arrangement makes it a one person job.
With a little imagination, the use of a floating ball check in the drain of a cabin could solve those kinds of issues.

[gcarter]

This post may upset some purists, I'm not sure, we'll see.
As you previously saw, the tub bottom (or cockpit) was supported with some roving covered wooden wedges. The total area of support is probably 3-4 sq. in. and of course some distortion has occured in the tub bottom core material. :shocking: I understand why these boats were assembled in this manner...Hey, it's a fiberglas shop...these materials were essentially scrap! :yes:
My solution is to bolt six pieces of 2" X 2" X 1/4" anodized aluminum angle to the outside of the stringers with the top surfaces an average of 1/8" above the stringer tops. There will be a thin shim of some flexible material to make up for irregularities in the tub bottom and act as a shock absorber. The tub will be secured to the angles by drilling several screw holes through the tub bottom into the angle which will be tapped. The only thing visible in the cockpit will be six or eight oval head screws with finish washers. :idea:
The gap in the two longer angles are in the area of the seat pedastals i.e. there's nothing to support. The total support area is approximately 120 sq. in., an increase of 3000%. :shocking:
The two short angles forward are for the ski storage support...a 2 X 4 sits across them.

[MOP]

Geez George you need to name it Sherman, should be as strong as the name when done. Really looking good!

[gcarter]

Thanks Phil!
And the angle only cost $40.00! :wrench:

[Lenny]

George, why don't you lay in some wax paper, 100%, pour in some foam, 100% fill capacity when it has gone off, and at the same time lower in the tank on top to displace the foam and let it creep. Let it go off, then lift out the tank, peel off the wax paper, and remove the "plug". Then you could seal it up so there would never be any osmosis.

ORRRR,... you could pour the foam into the hull, place wax paper on top only, (regular Renolds stuff) lower the tank into place, let it go off, remove the wax paper and have a shape that TOTALLY supports your tank shape AND is bonded to the hull bottom. Then seal it up with something, apply some 1/8 - 1/4" neoprene "strips" to keep it away from the sealed foam and to let it breathe, THEN, drop in the tank and secure it to the stringers.. ???

[gcarter]

Lenny, I tried to answer this this morning, but it all went Phtttt! when I tried to post.
The tank is 5' long, about 2' wide, the depth varies, it weighs about 50#, and it needs to be precisely placed. I spent a considerable amount of time measuring the location before removing it.
I don't see any way in the world a person could manipulate a loose tank against the force of expanding foam and place it properly. At least I'm not strong enough to do it.
It sounds like a good idea for something smaller though.

[gcarter]

I picked up my new carb & flame arestor in Miami today.
Also, while I was there, I picked up my new panel. I'll post pics next week or so. :) :yippie:

[MOP]

Lenny, I tried to answer this this morning, but it all went Phtttt! when I tried to post.
The tank is 5' long, about 2' wide, the depth varies, it weighs about 50#, and it needs to be precisely placed. I spent a considerable amount of time measuring the location before removing it.
I don't see any way in the world a person could manipulate a loose tank against the force of expanding foam and place it properly. At least I'm not strong enough to do it.
It sounds like a good idea for something smaller though.

George what I have done is glue several 2X2X3/4" blocks of plywood well spaced under the tank half way up the angled bottom panels to space the tank. Block it firmly from above, don't worry about sides the V configuration will hold center in the hull. Pour foam in small batches, the foam will stick to its self and everything else Mask anything with in a foot or so.

[CMC]

George, Will you be painting the exterior before you are finished?

[gcarter]

George, Will you be painting the exterior before you are finished?

Yes, I've already painted the sides, transom, and deck stripe. I covered the paint type and characteristics in another thread called "stripes" and also one on restoring outdrives.

[gcarter]

Sometimes my planning doesn't go so well, like ordering the tank sealer about two weeks after you need it. Well, with all the hurricanes I haven't been able to get to it anyway.
As I posted previously, I've decided to take MOP's advice and waterproff the outside of the new tank. It came from RDS etched and with a generous coat of primer, probably zinc phosphate. I had scratched it in a couple of places, so I applied a thick coat of zinc chromate particularly to the welds and scratches.
The method of sealing I'm using is two coats of coal tar epoxy (about 20 mils) Please see http://www.epoxy.com/216.htm .
This stuff is foul, evil smelling black goop. As per the web site, it is mixed 4:1 using one of the graduated ratio cups you can get at auto paint stores. It is so thick, after mixing, I just poured it on the tank bottom and spread it with a small foam roller. It actually couldn't be much easier. The first coat went on without any problems in about ten minutes. I'll apply the second coat tomorrow morning bofore leaving for Sarasota.
After seeing the first coat go on, I can see how water would not be able to interact with the aluminum. With the tank bedded in foam, it looks like the only way the tank can fail is from the inside.
Now the good news for the rest of you....
I had to buy five gallons of the epoxy, actually four gallons of coal tar and one gallon of clear hardener. It looks like a quart will do the job, I'll know for sure soon. I'll be happy to sell quarts to board members at my cost plus handling costs.
Here are a couple of pics taken this morning...

[gcarter]

Well, we got back from Sarasota and I was able to get back to work on the project on Monday afternoon.
As I posted previously, I installed 1/4-20 UNC SST Tee nuts in the hull/deck joint. After looking at the rub rails again, it was obvious #10-24 screws are needed. I was able to find the SST Tee nuts @ www.mcmastercarr.com . I ordered on line (120 of them) at 5:00 PM last Thursday, and they came in Friday. Not bad! I have most of them epoxied in. These things should NEVER come loose.
I thought about this a lot after reading many threads and posts of loose screws after use on seemingly many of our Donzis. Hopefully this a permanent solution. The cost of all of the Tee nuts and screws (and of course some extras) was about $160.00. IMHO, this is a superior method, I hope, to fiberglassing the hull and deck together.
The total number of fasteners, 1/4" and #10, is about 200. Other than catastrophic failure of the 'glass joint of the deck and hull, I can't imagine a failure.

[gcarter]

So after installing ALL these fasteners, yesterday afternoon, I started to get ready to foam the fuel tank in.
As I previously stated, I'm attempting to waterproof the exterior of the tank, rather than mounting the tank so that air can circulate around it. With such a complex shape of tank bottom and hull, I didn't feel I was up to trying that.
The coal tar epoxy hardens up nicely, i.e. it won't come off on your hands.
However it is quite soft. So since I'm working by myself, I did manage to scratch the coating in a couple of places while hiking the tank over the rail and into the hull. Repair was very easy, just mix up a small amount of the epoxy and I smeared it on the scratches with a paper towel. :smash:
RDS provides two tabs w/holes at each end of the tank.
With the tank approximately in place, I started measuring around the tank and stringers. Before removal, I had spent some time determining the original location of the tank, including the height, in reference to the stringers and fore and aft bulkheads.
Using two 2 X 4's and some small pieces of Starboard to set the height, I located the tank at each end.
Next I made EXELLENT use of the 2 X 2 X 1/4 angles bolted to the stringers to support the cockpit, to clamp 2 X 4's accross the tank in two places to limit the movement of the tank in the foaming process.
Additionally, I had carefully read all the threads I could find concerning this procedure, and I noticed a number of you folks said to mask the area around the tank, so I did that also.
A couple of notes about the foam, this 4# foam kicks very slowly. I was mixing and puoring as fast as I could but there was no need to. The label says you have 45 seconds, but it's really 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. I made the first pours on each side in the middle since I didn't want any pressure on either end at this point.
I used 1/2 pint graduated cups from the auto paint store, one for each chemical. I mixed in a quart cup. I was able to use the quart cups for two or three pours, because of the slow speed of the foam. I think I made six pours all together. One in the middle, to start (1/2 on each side of the tank). One more in the middle, because the first one tended to run aft. By this time the foam was filling the sides nicely AND starting to fill the space in the back. My next pour was toward the front (1/2 on each side), remember there's less space up there.
I was able to fill about 90% of the space in this manner. I'm giving it a couple of hours to hardern (and to go to lunch), then I'll do one more small pour to fill any additional spaces.

[Morgan's Cloud]

Thanks for those details George.
How much foam has this job consumed and what was the ambient temperature when you did it ?

Steve

[MOP]

Super bang up job George! That is a really clean install, it will be there until even some of our younger members get to our age :biggrin.:

[gcarter]

Thanks for those details George.
How much foam has this job consumed and what was the ambient temperature when you did it ?

Steve
Hi Steve;
It has been a really nice day, probably 85*, and 50% humidity.
And I would have to guess I've used slightly more than half of the foam, >1 gallon (US). I'll need a bit more to finish.
I'm really grateful this heavier foam does'nt kick so fast. You can take your time and be really careful with it. :)

[Morgan's Cloud]

?? 50% humidity ??

I did'nt know it got so 'arrid' there :biggrin:

I still am awaiting mine and this info is all very useful.
It does sound like the working time is much friendlier than I thought it was going to be. I had no idea how much to order so I played it safe and got 3X 1 gallon kits... I bet I'm only going to need about 1.3 of them... if that ..
Where's the 'money flying away' smilie when you need it ?

Steve

[gcarter]

?? 50% humidity ??

I did'nt know it got so 'arrid' there :biggrin:

I still am awaiting mine and this info is all very useful.
It does sound like the working time is much friendlier than I thought it was going to be. I had no idea how much to order so I played it safe and got 3X 1 gallon kits... I bet I'm only going to need about 1.3 of them... if that ..
Where's the 'money flying away' smilie when you need it ?

Steve
I just back into my office from the warehouse and maybe it's 75%.
The total seems to have been about 75%, or about 1 1/2 gallons of chemicals, i.e. three quarts of each. It doesn't expand much, maybe 200-250%.
After two hours, it's still expanding slowly, sounds like breakfast cereal. I'm leaving it alone till tomorrow. :smash:

[gcarter]

Early this afternoon I finally got back to the project. Got the hand saw, and a wide wood chisel and started removing excess foam. Really a pretty easy job. Then I put a couple of coats of Interlux White bilge coat on the tank top, stingers, foam, and bulkheads.
Now I can FINALLY start putting the boat back together. Starting tomorrow, I'll be reassembling wiring, hoses, controls etc. :wavey: :moped: :wink: :D

Another issue, how many of the Donzis here have shut-off valves at the tank?
Originally mine didn't. It was connected to the water seperator at the engine w/ a wire reinforced 3/8" hose w/ AN-6 type female connectors. The only valve was at the inlet side of the water seperator.
The new RDS tank came w/ a shut-off valve at the tank but with a 3/8" barb integrated into the valve. There may be an anti-syphon valve integrated into the tank supplied shut-off valve.
This morning I ordered a new shut-off valve w/1/4" pipe threads in each end which can be adapted to male AN-6 fitting. The reason all of this is so important is I've already replaced the existing hose with an exact duplicate. DUHHH! :rlol:

[Donzigo]

Gee George, Doctor Ben Casey Couldn't have done a cleaner job! (You're probably not old enough to know that name).

Nice job...................

[gcarter]

Gee George, Doctor Ben Casey Couldn't have done a cleaner job! (You're probably not old enough to know that name).

Nice job...................
Richard...I was there when Orville and Wilber first flew!!!!
Thanks Richard, I appreciate that. :smash: :) :yippie:

[gcarter]

So I've been installing wiring, fuel line, and tab plumbing.
This is my first time rebuilding one of these small boats. There are some subtle differences.
Look the photos over carefully, if anyone sees any obvious blunders, please let me know! I'm just doing this thing once, although I did re-route some of the wiring three times.
You might want to note a couple of things;

I replaced the original glassed-in bilge pump mounting pad with one made from Starboard, the original plywood mount was rotted and had captured about a pint of stagnant water underneath. The new one is simply mounted in 5200.

The trim pump, mounted on the transom, is up and out of the bilge. Much easier to service and in a much better environment. the mounting bracket was made for me by Brian Kamrath of Martini Boat Design
http://www.martiniboatmarinedesign.com/index.html.

I still have to finish the wiring, mount the tabs (Victories), and a few odds and ends before I mount the engine for the last time. :smash:

[MOP]

Damn George looking real fine!

Phil

[Morgan's Cloud]

I'm continuing to enjoy this George ..... You're giving me some ideas .... :lightning :wrench:

Not to be stupid but what is that thingy in the first picture ... sorta looks like a cooling unit of some sort ?

Also .... will that bilge pump fit under the engine where it is ?

You must have a helluva lot more 'X' than I was thinking ..

Steve

[gcarter]

Hi Steve;
Yes that's an oil cooler, probably kind of rare on a SB, but I got a good deal on it on eBay, also a new power steering cylinder (I mounted it today).
I have a crank mounted raw water pump and if you look at the 2nd picture the 1 1/4" hose appearing from the left is from the pump discharge. It then goes through the p/s cooler, then crosses the bilge (please note that I supported the crossover hose) through the oil cooler, and up into the heat exchanger (San Jaun full system). And yes, there's plenty of room for the bilge pump there, it is just in front of the deep part of the sump.

[gcarter]

Also, notice the dual oil filter on the transom. For those who may be wondering why, obviously two filters increase oil capacity, but more importantly, two filters slows the velocity of the oil through the filter media, improving filtering ability.
I purchased two of these on eBay and obviously I only needed one so the other one is available for $25.00, it takes Ford type filter cartridges.
:wavey:

[Trueser]

Greorge,
That really looks great.

Give me a call I'm about to pull apart the 22. I have some questions I'm sure you have already gone thru.


Mike
708.912.8224 Cell

[gcarter]

So I set the engine back in yesterday to dry-fit everything and measure for hoses, etc. Gosh, how easy can that be wouthout a deck on it.
Steve, you asked about bilge pump to oil pan clearance, well picture #3 shows how much I have, although it's hard to photograph black shiny surfaces.
There was a discussion a few weeks ago about SST braided hoses, and how to assemble. I've made up my share of hose assemblies in my lifetime, so now if I possibly can, I'll let someone else make up the assemblies.
What I did was to install the ends, wether straight or ells, removed the nuts and farrels and used air hose to make up some dummy assemblies (see photos). This way the end fitting orientation is absolutely correct. So when I'm done sticking these together, it's off to the AeroQuip dealer to have the real assemblies made. I'm using plated steel ends, should hold up substantially longer than aluminum ends.
:wavey:

[gcarter]

G,

Been awhile since I checked in. Wow, lots of progress!! Palatka is doable ;) ;) And, even if it's not done, you owe yourself a brek, come on up and go for a ride or three!! Maybe I can get Buizilla to bring his Minx for ya to ride in. Inspiration is good for the soul! :) :)

Hmm, may need to work a trade, Perko parts for oil filter base? It uses standard Ford (small thread) screw on filters??

The other Scott

Skunkworks South :D :D :D
I'm not too far from Palatka, so we are planning some day trips, probably w/o the Minx. I'd love to see Jim's Minx.
And yes, parts for filter base is doable, let me know what to do. Yes, Ford thread. The carts you see in the picture are off the list Jamie posted awhile back. :yes: :)

[gcarter]

Yesterday and today, with the engine sitting in the boat, I hooked up all wiring, hoses, fittings, new SST oil lines from AeroQuip, and the heat exchanger and its brackets and all but two hoses. Some of the hoses have to be made up from pieces of formed hose with pieces of copper tubing in the joints. :yes:
So tomorrow I'll pull the engine and prepare to reinstall it and rig it for the last time. :cool!:

[BUIZILLA]

I sure hope you don't have to adjust the valves anytime soon... :wink:

[Rootsy]

wow i havn't looked at this thread since i think it BEGAN... great progress george... more for the rest of us to strive for on future projects :)

sure am glad i am in "fresh" water though... waaaay too much clutter on the engine for my tastes LOL but a necessary evil down there in salt shaker land i reckon...

i will be looking forward to seeing the rest of this baby come together :)

Jamie

[BUIZILLA]

Hey Roots....

tools ??? :umbrella:

JH

[Rootsy]

in the box ready to ship for a friggin month and a half now... yeah i know... :rolleyes:

JR

[BUIZILLA]

:smash: :rolleyes: :yes:

[gcarter]

I sure hope you don't have to adjust the valves anytime soon... :wink:
You know, I was thinking the same thing while putting on the H.E. The engine just kind of disappears. :)
For what it's worth, the H.E. comes off with just two bolts and six hoses (after you drain the anti-freeze). :yes:

[martiniboat/ Brian Kamrath]

All I can say is WOW George!

Your project takes me back to some of my own experiences and it's obvious you're doing it right! Keep up the good work, I'll be following this one...

Brian

[gcarter]

Thanks Brian;
That means a lot from you! :yes:

[LKSD]

George, Absolutley fantastic job.. I make my living doing this & I have to say You should definitley be proud!! Nice touch with the stainless marine exhaust manifolds (they work nicely, I have installed many of them).. Jamie
www.lakesiderestorations.com (http://www.lakesiderestorations.com)

[Donzigo]

Dang George, you're too much................and I thought I was anal.

Very nice job, sport!

[Cuda]

Dang George, you're too much................and I thought I was anal.

Very nice job, sport!

Richard, just because he is anal also doesn't absolve you from being anal too. :biggrin:

[gcarter]

I've been real busy lately and have only been able to work on this project a few minutes at a time.
Last week Phil Reed came by to give me a hand aligning trhe engine. We were kind of like the blind leading the blind, both of us understood the principles, but neither one of us had actually done it. After a couple of hours, it became clear at its lowest position, the engine was still too high. Well, I've been fooling with it all week and finally today I came up with a combination of parts that work.Take a look at the pics of the left and right mounts below.
When I bought the boat, the entire drivetrain was garbage except the outdrive itself, so I don't know if was aligned properly then or not.
So take a look at the pics and would someone who has experience on aligning tell me if they have seen anything similar.
:wavey:

[pmreed]

So George, you removed the second nut. If it lines up with the remaining nuts tightened, it oughta work. There's just no adjustment left other than how much you torque down on the donut and the thickness of the washer, but, hey why not??

Phil

[gcarter]

Actually Phil, the nuts you see have been machined .1" and then shimmed with the washer you see. This has been a very frustrating experience. :confused:

[LKSD]

Looks good. As long as everthing is properly aligned now you should be fine. just make sure that you properly tighten all of the mounts & that they cant move or shift. If they can move or shift you will need to devise annother way to mount it, otherwise you can blow out the driveshaft, coupler & gimble bearing & probably some more expensive stuff. Again from your pics it loooks ok as long as you tighten down the top nuts & nothing can shift ... Jamie :boat:

www.lakesiderestorations.com (http://www.lakesiderestorations.com)

[MOP]

George mystery solved! Darn we must have had a half dozen talks about the NEW mounts and this aligning mess, I thought you bought MERC mounts!!! They style you have are a fair bit taller from the base to the top of the rubber. The right height mount is made by "Bushings Inc. # JE 210", how do I know this I have a brand new set sitting next to me on my desk for the 383 I just grabbed out of my mess. The correct mounts will give you about 5/16 more lowering adjustment, they are easily recognizable as the rubber does not protrude above the base casting. The mounts only use one nut top and bottom with a bending tab lock washer to secure the bottom nut, top one just lock washers in place.

Phil

[LKSD]

George mystery solved! Darn we must have had a half dozen talks about the NEW mounts and this aligning mess, I thought you bought MERC mounts!!! They style you have are a fair bit taller from the base to the top of the rubber. The right height mount is made by "Bushings Inc. # JE 210", how do I know this I have a brand new set sitting next to me on my desk for the 383 I just grabbed out of my mess. The correct mounts will give you about 5/16 more lowering adjustment, they are easily recognizable as the rubber does not protrude above the base casting. The mounts only use one nut top and bottom with a bending tab lock washer to secure the bottom nut, top one just lock washers in place.

Phil
Yep, Phil is right. I just checked annother set in our shop here.. I should have thought of checking first before talking.. Uhhhhh!! Jamie :banghead:

[MOP]

Much as I hate to say it, I would change them out. The problem that "can" exist is one stringer may be a bit higher than the other which may rack things a bit. George if you want to use the existing mount what I would do is take the weight off the mounts with a long lifting cable/chain as we have talked about check the dimension under the "fully tightened" mounts to insure you are not causing any problem, remember that if the boat settles a little once fully back together you will not have any leeway for correction!

Phil

[MOP]

More! For those of you dumping a motor back in check the post below, it is very important to to hang the engine right. Using a short chain or cable "may" throw things off. The engine must self align to the transom shield, it will be glassy smooth if done right.

Phil

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33750&highlight=engine+alignment

[gcarter]

George mystery solved! Darn we must have had a half dozen talks about the NEW mounts and this aligning mess, I thought you bought MERC mounts!!! They style you have are a fair bit taller from the base to the top of the rubber. The right height mount is made by "Bushings Inc. # JE 210", how do I know this I have a brand new set sitting next to me on my desk for the 383 I just grabbed out of my mess. The correct mounts will give you about 5/16 more lowering adjustment, they are easily recognizable as the rubber does not protrude above the base casting. The mounts only use one nut top and bottom with a bending tab lock washer to secure the bottom nut, top one just lock washers in place.

Phil
OK, so I've been searching diligently on the web for these things. No luck. So where can I get them? :smash: :)

[MOP]

Below is URL for Bushings Inc it is not an item that most dealers stock, maybe they will sell direct.

Phil

http://www.bushingsinc.com/

[gcarter]

Yeah, I found the web site myself, but the way it's structured it looks like they only sell to dealers.
I'll try the number tomorrow.

[MOP]

Maybe Scott MP can order them for you or possibly one of the guys has a set kicking around put a wanted post up.

Phil

[Trueser]

George,
I still say the offshore mounts are a better solution. The only problem is you may have to cut them down to fit between the stringers. They also tie the stringers together.

Good luck.

[gcarter]

Mike, as you know, I'm intruiged by the offshore mounts, but at this point it's probably not going to happen. I need to FINISH this thing! :smash:

[gcarter]

Scott, I found that site too. They don't list the # Phil mentioned. Do you have knowledge about another # that would work?

[gcarter]

OK, why don't you send me a pair. :biggrin:

[MOP]

I checked the mounts for some measurements, the height of the base is 1 1/2" when the lower nut is full down it is 2 3/16 to the top of the nut. These only have two nuts not three like pictured on the site. Note the letters I gave you were wrong one was smudged the correct one is "DE" not JE When you go up on the site and click on marine mounts it is the single one pictured, the pics kind of small but you can see the inverted washer and that no rubber is above the metal part of the mount.

Phil

[gcarter]

Thank you Scott!
If you can turn them around and ship them Wednesday, I'll get them Thursday, that would be great.
Otherwise, Palatka would be good. :cool:

[gcarter]

Well I got the new mounts last Friday, not Thursday, but I still got them bolted in Friday afternoon. We've been extremely busy in our business hiring and training new sales people, so I didn't have an opportunity to align the engine until yesterday afternoon. This afternoon I got the sucker bolted in!!! :yes: :) Things are good.
Now maybe I can make some headway! Elaine, my business partner, promised I can work on it all Thanksgiving weekend, except Thusrday of course. Maybe I can use it during Christmas/New Years holidays. Eat your heart out, Yankee Scum!! You can give us a hard time about our hurricanes, our alligators, our snakes, our mosquitos, our cock roaches, but we can still boat the year around! :biggrin:
Poodle, if you read this, please email me.

[Trueser]

George,
Let me know how the alignment goes. I just finished the 29 and I'm curious about the way the tool feels? The real test is to stick the drive shaft in without the drive attached.

And yes they were a pain in the but!

Call me
Mike

[gcarter]

I know some of you are wondering why I haven't finished this project yet, and so am I!!! :bawling:
A lot has been going on in our business and time has been very precious. I was able to make up a metal fuel line assembly, but it only took four tries! :boggled:
As some of you know, I'm using a Faria Fuel Manager. This device, purchased from Mear Image for $175.00, is a life saver for vee bottomed tanks because you always know how much fuel you have left. It actually makes the fuel tank gauge redundant. Some of you have even emailed me as to how I'm mounting the sensor. The sensor comes with a one piece 35' wiring harness. Obviously I don't need this much, so I cut a 6" leader on the harness and attached each end to a six line terminal strip. This strip is mounted to the bracket I had fabricated for my electric coolant circulating pump. In the picture below, the two lines on the left are for drive trim, and the other three are for the fuel sensor. The instructions call for the sensor to be mounted vertically and this is about the only place I found to mount it. It would have been easier if the engine had a mechanical pump but the late model Vortec engine has no accomodation for one. As you can see, the Holley pump w/ the regulator and pressure gauge is mounted outboard of the stringer. Does anyone w/experience with these see any problems with my installation?
After finishing the fuel system, I dry fitted the H.E. again and found I need to move two inline fuses further aft toward the carb. It never ends. If you have any questions about the pics, don't hesitate to pipe up. I'm learning as I go. I prefer to correct mistakes now rather than when the deck goes back on. I shot the pics showing the terminal strip and sensor with the circ pump and fuel filter removed.

[gcarter]

The other day I completely finished the engine installation, everything that is except battery cables and control cables. And of course they go back on when the deck is finally back on. I thought I had finished the install several times, but I always seemed to find something else to add. :frown:
Additionally I installed a new horn and new wiring (orange and black, of course) and I also restored the existing under deck bow wiring. :smash:

[Cuda]

Giterdone! :biggrin.:

[gcarter]

The first page or so of this threaqd shows some pics of damage done to the cockpit bottom from inferior supporting method. Some other boats on this site have been repaired using various methods, usually using more fiberglass.
I'm more of a mechanical kind of guy, and I like to use some sort of metal structure.
So I bolted in anodized aluminum 2'X2"X1/4" angles for the cockpit to sit on, and instead of tabbing in the cockpit to the stringers, I'm screwing in the floor to the angles.
The first picture shows the aft end of the new fuel tank along with the new fuel hose, shut off valve, gauge wiring, and the mounting angles.
The second picture shows how I incorporated the fuel hose support clamps into the cockpit mounting angles.
Yes, I used anti-sieze on the screw threads.

[gcarter]

I dropped the deck back on for the first time since Sepember.
This was a trial to see how the screw holes lined up and to mark the location of the cockpit mounting angles on the cockpit bottom.
My favorite marine salvage store, Surplus Unlimited in Daytona, has some dense foam material in strip form on a roll. This material has adhesive on one side with a tear off paper. Tomorrow, I'll be applying this strip to the cockpit bottom where it interfaces with with mounting angles. Then I will be drilling through the foam strip and cockpit bottom. When the deck goes back on, I will drill and tap the mounting angles through the holes I drilled in the cockpit floor.
My intention is to design a mounting system that is easy to dis-assemble and without any grinding. In other words, one person could lift the deck without any fiberglass work at all.
The first picture is of the deck back on and a view of the engine. The second is of the cockpit forward bulkhead, notice how different a Minx cockpit is from a classic. However different it is from a 22 classic, the next picture shows Catch 22's (Jim Collins) recently replaced rear seat. The difference is in the deck camber. The Minx's aft deck is nearly flat.
The last pic shows the transom w/ the new tabs.

[gcarter]

It's getting pretty exciting actually having some time to work on the Minx. I was able to mark the angle locations on the cockpit bottom. Then I pulled the deck back off. I completed the outline of the angle locations on the cockpit.
Next I cut pieces of the foam strip to fit the angle outlines, tore off the adhesive paper and stuck them to the cockpit bottom. I used a 3/4" hole saw to cut holes through the foam and the cockpit floor. These holes are to be used for bolts to be installed through the cockpit floor into the angles.
I was able to determine that the cockpit floor core is 1/2" mahogany plywood, not balsa. I was actually glad to discover this. Although the plywood is heavier, I don't think it is as catastrophic as balsa when water penetrates it.
Trueser just had his cockpit floor replaced and he informed me his was balsa, even though it was built the same year (1986).

[gcarter]

Next I lowered the deck back on the hull. I put a few deck screws in to guarantee the location of the cockpit.
Using the (six) 3/4" dia. holes I sawed through the cockpit floor, I drilled and tapped six holes into the angles from the centers of the 3/4" holes. the cockpit holes will be sealed with penetrating epoxy. Water will never penetrate through these holes into the plywood core. The fit of the cockpit bottom on the angles and the foam is remarkable. Where the cockpit floor had badly distorted from the previous mounting method, now all the floor variations are taken up with the foam strips.
The first two pictures are of the sawn holes in the cockpit floor. One is a closeup.
The others are of the cockpit bottom sitting on the foam and angles. One taken aft of the cockpit, you can clearly see there is plenty of gap above the stringers. You can also see the damage caused by the previous mounting method.
Also a couple of pics from inside the cooler showing the gap over the stringers where previously there wasn't any becaused the floor had sagged.
The 2" angle running transverse across the rear seat base will be bolted to the longitudinal angles with a stack of Starboard shims in the gap. This will significantly strengthen the rear seat structure.

[gcarter]

Finally, here are a couple of shots showing the deck back on. Unfortunately, I have to remove it at least once more to make a small repair and to clean the bilge.

[ToonaFish]

George, that is just slap gorgeous! Are you doing the happy dance being so very close to finishing?

:hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper:

[gcarter]

I must admit, it's getting pretty exciting. :yes: :biggrin.:

[MOP]

Damn I can almost see that Giddy Water Merchant Ginnin Back!
LOL Keep A Go! Lookin good George :wink:

[Trueser]

George,

Getting close, looking real good.

This may set a post record.


Trueser

[Rootsy]

She's looking great George... you give me something to aspire for in the future :)

when is the scheduled maiden voyage?

J

[gcarter]

Hi Jamie, if we stay home Christmas, maybe around New Years. Why don't come down and help me launch it? It's a 5.7 Vortec, your kind of engine.
:wavey: :boat:

[catch 22]

George, It look's GOOD. But i here it's cold as :cussball: up there. :wavey: Jim

[Trueser]

George,
When you getting this thing wet? Where are you with the bolt down? Give us an update!

Hey I have a excuse its only 6 above zero today.

I need to find me a heated garage..........

[gcarter]

Yeah, it was only 40* here today, and it's down to 25* tonite. I've been doing a couple of things like reinforcing the floor of the cockpit at the two forward corners of the cooler cut-out, cutting new clearance holes and countersinks for the deck joint screws (remember they're now 1/4-20 machine screws and the c'sk is substantially larger...X 100), touched up the engine compartment paint, and mounted the ski locker support to its mounting angles. I still have to install the battery cables.
It'll be in the 70's by Wednesday so I should be able to finish these things. :yes:

[gcarter]

Well, it was warmer today and I was able to finish a few things I'd started.
In the first picture, is a typical example of gel coat stress cracks. They form for two reasons. One is it's an inside corner of the cooler cut-out, i.e. it inheirantly weak anyway. Two, the cockpit floor is a cored structure. All the coring on my Minx is mahogany plywood. If you look from the bottom of the cockpit, the coring forms a sort of jig-saw puzzle, and there are gaps between the pieces. Where these gaps are, the glass composite is thinner, from about 3/4" to about 1/2" thick, it's sort of like perforating a page. If you have a thin area with high stress, you will have cracks. What I did to correct the areas around the cooler corners was to fill the thin areas with glass filled body filler and then reinforce with an additional build-up of glass. Oh yeah, it was interesting and semi difficult to lay the glass overhead on a pretty cool day.
If you look at the core piece just forward of the cooler, you can see where someone had written "MINX" on the plywood core.

[Trueser]

George,
Flip that thing over and crawl up thru the center. That way you can lay on a bunch of glass. Thats the same thing I found on the 22 a bunch of different pieces of wood and gaps.
I was supposed to get some pitures when they had her upside down.

ANyway at least you can keep your fingers warm.

[gcarter]

George,
Flip that thing over and crawl up thru the center. That way you can lay on a bunch of glass. Thats the same thing I found on the 22 a bunch of different pieces of wood and gaps.
I was supposed to get some pitures when they had her upside down.

ANyway at least you can keep your fingers warm.
That's a great idea but I'm doing this by myself. Probably no simple way to flip the deck alone. :banghead:

[ToonaFish]

That's a great idea but I'm doing this by myself. Probably no simple way to flip the deck alone. :banghead:

There is a way, but it involves eating lots of collard greens...

[gcarter]

So I'm getting closer to the end of this.
I put the deck back on today to try all the machine screws in the deck hull joint. Everything went back together really well except the spacing in the transom area. I will be re-drilling the joint screw holes. The existing ones are too close to the rub rail screw holes. Aligning the machine screws to the Tee nuts was fairly easy if you are just patient getting them started. I think two Tee nuts came loose inside while starting the screws, I didn't epoxy all of them in. I still believe this will still be a superior way to connect the deck to the hull. We'll see.
Before dropping the deck today, I had cleaned and buffed the cockpit, replaced all the snaps and through bolted ALL 500 of them (it seems). For the weenies riding in the back seat, I added some weenie bars.
Also I trimmed the dash board to accept the new instrument panel.
Hopefully before the day is over tomorrow, I'll be putting the deck back on for the last time.
Oh yeah, the gel cracks in the cockpit floor will have to wait for another time. I'm trying to get the floor flatened and it may take awhile to get the big bumps pulled down.

[gcarter]

Sorry, what is Plexus? :confused:

[gcarter]

I like the idea, but I don't think you would get it apart.
I think I would like to use something between RTV and 5200.
Any ideas? :confused:

:wavey:

[gcarter]

So for about a week I've been spending time re-wiring glitches in my new panel to correspond to the actual boat wiring.
The Minx has an auxiliary panel to the right of the wheel where the original drive ande trim tab controls were located.
Part of my new panel scheme was to use a new panel to include three waterproof Carling switches for trim control and to also locate the trim gauge there.
The first picture shows the front of the panel.
The second shows the amount of wiring required to replace the original trim controls.
The third picture shows the new terminal strip and wiring for the trim switches. So many jumpers are required to replace the jumpers built into the Bennett and Mercruiser switches.
The fourth picture is of the front of the new panel. I have room for some graphics at the top. The panel fabricator offered to include some but I still haven't made up my mind what to include. Maybe a new style Donzi logo followed a script "Minx" like was originally on the side of the boat.
The fifth picture shows the wiring I have done so far.

[MOP]

Damn George that is Friggin Gorgious! Now hurry up and get the darn thing WET!

[gcarter]

Here are a few update pics;
one is of wiring, and the dash.
The third is of my rear seat suspension which guarantees the cockpit ploor will not get smashed on the stringers. :boat:
:wavey:

[MOP]

Here are a few update pics;
one is of wiring, and the dash.
The third is of my rear seat suspension which guarantees the cockpit ploor will not get smashed on the stringers. :boat:
:wavey:

Good to finally see some final shots and a :cool: seat shot, been visualizing for months. :yes: ! Time to throw this :lifeprese on the back and get wet :biggrin.:

[Trueser]

George,
You're getting close. Looking really good.

Call me I can bring you up to date.


Mike'

[LKSD]

The boat is looking great George!!


Jamie :propeller
www.lakesiderestorations.com (http://www.lakesiderestorations.com)

[Fish boy]

George, the boat looks fantastic. I am in awe of your wiring, makes me want to redo that birds nest I have under my console. Keep posting thise pics, and I can't wait to see her in the water at dora.

fish

[Morgan's Cloud]

:starfish: I can feel the love that's gone into that :starfish:


What ARE you going to do with yourself when this is all finished ? :D

Steve