Rolls Trailers

[RickR]

"For the Record"

I've trailers my Classics for 10 years, over more than 40000 miles. Many of these miles are on rough roads and over mountains.

I feel Rolls is the best trailer for a Classic Donzi. Dan Gallager @ Rolls is an artist and a great engineer. He thinks "out of the box" and has come up with some great innovations.

The one design problem I had with my Rolls trailer was fixed promptly while I waited.

The only other problem is my fault for not getting brakes on both axles (brake torture test on a mountain I pull over, 15 miles/3500' vertical drop)

A trailer bought "off the shelf" is not rigged for any particular boat. If you cannot rig it yourself, buy from a reputable dealer and have them rig it for you.

I feel a 18 Classic should be on a tandem trailer.

Rolls suspension is stiff and aluminum I beams flex, so boat must be secured to trailer with bow and stern straps to prevent bouncing.

I feel the aluminum I beams on a trailer should end beyond the stern of the trailered boat so I have Dan construct to my specs. I give him the distance from axles to bow eye, axles to aft end of the trailer I beams and width between bunks.

After purchasing a Rolls I: :smash:

Install my own wheels.

Redo all electrical connections with bare butt connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink.

Install a roller between front guide bunks.

Adjust bunk "pucks" for correct angle.

Adjust front bow stop roller for correct COG and height.

Install safety chain.

Install stainless eyes on rear cross member for stern tie downs.

If you need trailer specs for a 22 Classic, please contact me. riggerb@aol.com

[boatnut]

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and have their own experiences to guide them so I respect your opinion. However, I have owned 18' Classics since 1970 and have always used single axle trailers without brakes -- I keep good trailer (not car) tires properly inflated on the trailers. I have done extensive towing of the 18's for the last 35 years without a problem (or even a flat tire). These single axle trailers are much easier to store and move around a garage by hand and are less maintenance (fewer bearings and no brakes). I have also owned a 22' Classic and because of size and weight, I used a dual axle trailer with brakes. Ed

[JimG]

Krakmeup just brought his Rolls trailer home from Florida. He had one built for his new Superboat. It is a thing of beauty!

On the other hand, I'm with Boatnut. I'm a single axle guy on an 18' Donzi. I even lost a wheel at 70mph, with no ill effects except for a bent fender.

Update on TurboLube hubs: still going strong, zero maintenance after several thousand miles.

[Lenny]

Rick, just curious, but since I have done the exact same thing as you have here, other than new wheels,
Install my own wheels.

Redo all electrical connections with bare butt connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink.

Install a roller between front guide bunks.

Adjust bunk "pucks" for correct angle.

Adjust front bow stop roller for correct COG and height.

Install safety chain.

Install stainless eyes on rear cross member for stern tie downs.

why do we need to add all this stuff after spending that much on a trailer? A safety chain and an area to place tie downs seems pretty straight-forward if you ask me. And the angle and height for the pucks needs machining and new stuff added, and the front spreader guide-on is really of poor design. I also added the keel roller up front. I will take a pic. That front set up is like it was made for a flat bottom boat. Rick, when you live 3000 miles away, it is pretty hard to get them "to set it up right and make add-ons".

I just feel there are others out there that this kind of stuff would be "standard equipment" and at least required by law.

[RickR]

Lenny
Sorry you have had so much trouble :frown:

The bow safety chain is redundant. I have not seen bow safety chains stock on any trailers but I'm sure some brands have them.

Many aft trailer tie down straps are available. Many owners use a strap that goes from the I beam, over the gunnells to the I beam on the other side. I choose to use straps off the stern U bolts and self installed stainless eye bolts to keep from scratching the gel coat on the gunnels.

The pucks that came on my 22's trailer were adjustable and worked great with the 24 degree V.

The front V guide does not work with a Classic. Mabe a float on semi V??????? But works great after the bow roller is installed.


JimG and Boatnut

Most performance bass boats in my part of the country are on tandem trailers :yes:

My issue with the single axle trailer on an 18 Classic is with the 3500LBs axles and load range C 14" trailer tires.

By the time you add boat weight (1990 Donzi brochure states 2600lbs dry for an 18 SBC Classic), rigging, cooler :beer:, fuel, batteries and trailer weight you are approaching if not over the GVW limit.

My 18 was over 3500lbs GVW because of that BIG chunk of iron in the engine compartment. :eek!:

[JimG]

RickR,

I'm with ya, but my 1970 18 is lighter. Somewhere around 2250 wet, with a small Ford motor. Also, my single axle trailer has 15" load range D's. Rated for 2270lbs. That's 4540 total, and the trailer is aluminum with aluminum rims, (floats big time!). So I have plenty of room to play with. :rlol:

I know all about being too light on trailers! My Thoroughbred came from the factory with an Ameritrail steel trailer, WITH 14" TIRES! It's right at the limit. C rated tires (1870 lbs x 4 = 7480. Boat wet is near 6k, trailer's heavy... I'll most likely have a Rolls built with 15's (or 16's when they get their tooling done), when I replace this one.

Jim

[boatnut]

RickR, no argument here, 14" load range C tires are not enough. Still no need to go to a tandem axle trailer -- there are many single trailer axles, wheels and tires rated sufficiently for the the 18 classic. "Whatever floats your
boat" but I think a properly balanced and setup single handles better on the highway and in the garage. Ed