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View Full Version : buff out a faded stripe? can it be done???



rag top man
08-31-2004, 11:37 AM
Unless the side panel "paint" or the deck stripe "paint" are NOT clear coated, can you buff them out when they get faded??
I keep hearing about people considering this process, but today, a popular paint is the 2 step urathane, which is a color coat covered up with a clear coat. I guess it depends on the paint and clear coat process,, so I guess the real question is: How is the stripe painted on for most boats????
Is it painted on, with no clear coat (so it can be buffed)?
Is it painted on and covered with clear coat (thus no buffing will cure the dullness unless you buff thru the clear coat)
Is the color in the gelcoat (thus still no buffing will help)
Or is it ?????????
Help please, so i done buy a boat expecting to cure a dull stripe or panel, only to learn later that it needs to be repainted.
Thanks in advance,
greg aka. ragtopman

Rootsy
08-31-2004, 11:41 AM
Donzi's come frmo the factory with gelcoat stripes.. no paint, unless i guess you get some kind of special graphics ro what not..

when i got my boat my stripe on the deck and waterline were PINK and i mean PINK... they are red as red now...

3M superduty on a wool pad until i see red.. then Finesse it III light cut compound followed by finishing compound to remove any swirls.. on a foam pad.. followed by wash then wax.. wait a day.. wash.. then wax and then do it a third time..

if that doesn't get it for ya then you can wetsand the gel then compound and finish it out...

RvR
08-31-2004, 11:45 AM
I recently hand compounded the gelcoat stripe on my 94’ 16 Classic and then waxed with Nufinish. It came out very nice IMO. :smileybo: :fire:

gcarter
08-31-2004, 11:48 AM
If my Minx is any indicator, they are originally gelled.
I suppose most have been repainted. Mine had been. I tried buffing and the remainder of the paint came off. I could then clearly see the gel with the trim color peeking through.
I just repainted mine and did a thread;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36434

txtaz
08-31-2004, 12:11 PM
From what I understand, the process of oxidation due to UV light is what make paint and gel coats "look" faded. What the compound does is remove the top level of oxidized material. If there is more material underneath then you are back to the original color. If not, as in george's case, you need to replace the gel or paint it.
Clear coat, gel and paint all oxidize but only the top layers at first. Actually everything oxidizes just at varying degrees due to material and envoronment. Just buff out the oxidized material and cover with wax for protection. If I remember correctly, the wax creates it's own oxidation layer as a barrier to the material underneath. It's been 20 years since I had materials and chemistry class, so I could be a little dusty, uhmmm, errrr rusty. Get it??? Oxidation on iron.....rust.....rusty???? Hello??? Good thing I have a day job, I'd never make it as a commedian.
Hope this helps,
Wes

GKricheldorf
08-31-2004, 01:28 PM
I'm still trying to get my color to where it should be, but must admit not trying very hard. :bawling:

Rootsy - what grade of steel whool did you use? There are a few different types. Fine, meduim, coarse???

RvR
08-31-2004, 02:22 PM
I also have had very good luck with Bar Keepers Friend cleanser and polish. It is a mild acid cleaner in a very fine abrasive powder. Does wonders on all kinds of stains including rust and bottom yellow stain. Much cheaper than the “special marine” products too. Available at a Wall Mart near you.

DOND
08-31-2004, 02:54 PM
:) My 1969 16 was pink when I bought it. I wet sanded with 400,600,1000,1200 and buffed it with malko tru-grit. It came out like new. The older boats have a ton of gelcoat on them so wetsanding is a great way to restore the finish. You do have to be careful not to rub thru. It depends how much gel is on the boat.
Don

Cuda
08-31-2004, 04:12 PM
Yes, the gel will buff out in most cases. Mine was badly oxidized. This is what it looked like after using Aqua Buff 2000. It's not expensive either, $10 for 16 oz, of which this boat took about 5 oz's to do.

Rootsy
08-31-2004, 06:24 PM
I'm still trying to get my color to where it should be, but must admit not trying very hard. :bawling:

Rootsy - what grade of steel whool did you use? There are a few different types. Fine, meduim, coarse???

NOT steel wool... a WOOL as in from a sheep (BAAAAAAH) pad on the buffer... i don't even bother by hand when it comes to compounding...

Ranman
08-31-2004, 06:54 PM
Root, Why wool insead of foam?

Speed-Racer
08-31-2004, 08:52 PM
Amazingly the 73' x-18 had never been painted in 30 years...I too was wondering how to re-store some of the color...

DonziChick
08-31-2004, 09:00 PM
Send JerryEsiele an email since he obviously didnt see this post (I'll let him know too). I have never seen as nice a job as he did on our 18' anywhere else. It was at the point where the seller was going to paint it rather than restore and those of you that saw it at Lake St. Clair an vouch that it looks absolutely awesome

Fish boy
01-25-2005, 09:28 AM
Yes, the gel will buff out in most cases. Mine was badly oxidized. This is what it looked like after using Aqua Buff 2000. It's not expensive either, $10 for 16 oz, of which this boat took about 5 oz's to do.

just called them, no retail stores, only through the website. :( wanted to try it today, need something bad for my transom where my jackplate has been for the past 10 years. Might have to paint.

Fish boy
01-25-2005, 09:30 AM
you out there? What did you use on your 18?

DonziChick
01-25-2005, 09:36 AM
He's around. Um, he used some sort of car, boat, airplane stuff. I want to say it was Aqua buff maybe but I could be wrong. Its something that other people don't like but has always worked really well for him.

RedDog
01-25-2005, 10:20 AM
I have picked up AquaBuff 2000 and a variable speed rotary polisher (500 - 3000 RPM) to spift-up Genuine Trouble this Spring. I don't really have oxidation but don't have the high shine I would like.

Any tips on the use of a rotary polisher or AquaBuff would be appreciated.

lee
01-25-2005, 10:35 AM
Wizards Turbo Cut Is What The Pro's Use In My Boat Yard Where I Store So I Did The Green Gelcoat On My Searay Came Out Perfect 1200 Rpn Buffer Went Over Twice And Waxed Twice Looks Like New

Jerry Eisele
01-25-2005, 04:40 PM
If its bad, I'll wet sand with 1200, Then Dupont Heavy Duty compound, then Aque buff. The stuff I use has changed from Aque buff to eger buff. You can wax or put a sealant over the Aque buff. I found if the boat is not kept in the sun, just touch it up with the Aque buff when it starts to fade. Fish, if we hook up in Feb. I'll bring you a small jar, to do your boat.
Reddog, I use a wool pad on a reg. buffer at 1700 rpm, but they suggest 2200rpm. I've never tried orbital.

Cuda
01-25-2005, 05:14 PM
Jody, try the aquabuff first before painting. It's amazing stuff. I bought it from the website. I got the 1000, and the 2000.

Jerry Eisele
01-26-2005, 08:44 PM
Cuda, Whats the differance in 1000 & 2000 Aque Buff??

Cuda
01-26-2005, 09:46 PM
The 1000 is more coarse. On badly oxidized gel, use the 1000 first, then the 2000, then wax with Meguires Carnuba Wax. I just can't say how impressed I was with it.

Fish boy
01-27-2005, 08:24 AM
thanks everyone, I really appreciate the advice.

fish

Pismo
06-08-2005, 08:53 PM
I just tried Aquabuff 2000. It works ok, no miracles. Definitely need a rotary polisher with wool pad, I tried it with an orbiting Porter Cable and it did absolutely nothing. Two passes with Aquabuff 2000 using a rotary polisher & wool pad and I can still see some chaulk and it was not bad at all to begin with, very minor chaulk. It is better but far less improved than I expected. I am sure better can be found. Red boats are tough. I have heard so much positive feedback about I do not want to give up, maybe I need the 1000. The oxidation was very minor though.