Deck-Off, Day 1

[Tony]

Two guys, eight hours. We started with a pulley system using 3:1 assist, and ended up rigging up a 6:1 system. Very nice to have a brother that is a sailer...they have lots of hardware and know how to improvise. We're thinking this deck weighs 500 pounds!

The "tabs" were a bit tedious. In my case there were 3 tabs securing the ski locker, each about 12" long. Then, underneath the storage compartment, were another three about the same size. Once cut free the deck hoisted pretty smoothly. Notice the 2x4 holding the foredeck from flopping around, that worked real well.

Once the tank was pulled it was a real eye-opener. Completely soaked foam, literally dripping gas as I pryed it off. Very custom shaped, with the vee tapering steeper as it goes towards the bow, and the side view also tapering as you can see in one of the pictures. I hope to find a Michigan fabricator so I can drop him the tank to replicate it exactly

Here's a question looking ahead towards re-assembly. What are some ideas for re-attaching the "tabs"? Would you slap a glassed cloth "band-aid" over the seams? How about a bead of 5200, or a 1/2 round piece of pvc 5200'ed to the seam? Or would this prevent future removal? Any other thoughts?

[Donzigo]

You are doing it right.

Nice job.

Fiberglass is the only way to go on reassembly. Lot's of it, too.

[mattyboy]

nice work Tony,
wow I thought my tank looked bad, and once you get it done you will have a new confidence in your boat
keep us posted


Matty

[MOP]

Just an opinion, Glass tabs can be cut down the road if need be, as far as getting a decent seal I use silicone on screwed lap joints, it is a lot easier to get it apart than with 5200. I spread a bead of clear on both half's with a brush or spatula then assemble, then run a bead along the weather or water side before putting moldings back on.

Phil

[Rootsy]

have you thought about doing any PM's on the motor and other accessories while you have GOOD access to it all? i believe mattyboy took full advantage of that... :)

JR

[GEOO]

Nice job... Look's so easy in the photo's.
The deck look's like it has pvc tube glassed in?
Was the deck renforced by someone?
Are you going to put the same pvc tube under the tank?

[bigman]

It looks like my 68 did when I pulled it apart. I had PVC tubes in mine. Also I reattached mine with fiberglass.I got an organic vapor mask (works real good if you've never used one) and just cimed in there and glassed the H### out of it, it was more dirty than it was hard. Nice job,good luck,bigman.

[penbroke]

Lookin' good Tony! :yes:
It will be worth all the effort in the end.

Frank

[Scott Heidt]

I was just curious. If you wanted to go to a bigger tank (i.e. fabricate it longer using the extra space behind the original tank) what are the ramifications.

The reason I ask is that some day I will have to replace the tank in my 81 Hornet II and I really want to increase the capacity. I want to take advantage of as much of the extra space going aft as possible.

Thank you for posting the pics. This is very interesting and informative.

[Tony]

The pvc under the deck, I think, is original. I will glass the tabs when re-assembling...the organic mask is good advice considering the confined quarters!

Jamie, my engine only has about 25 hours on it...but I will examine the peripherals carefully...especially the hard to get at components.

Part Number Poodle, would you know the part number of the boot below? It is for the shift cable, and is pretty beat up. Also, what the heck does a CG approved vent hose look like?

[mattyboy]

Geoo,
my deck is the same way no wood core at all,
it seems that a run of boats in the 67-68 range came off the line like this mine is hull 410 Tony's is 420 I think Jerry Eisele has/had a blue 16 hull 413 with the pvc tubes also
it has been said they built em with whatever they had on hand at the time no core available so they used pvc when they got wood in stock then back to core,
Tony's and my boat also had the donzi marine wheel and windshields from the factory mine was removed and glassed over

Tony,
I got my vent line at boater's world or west's it's is 3/8ths fuel line black and a red stripe I think , not clear tubing, the filler hose must be double clamped and check the fitting sizes, measure the filler neck on the deck fixture on mine it was like an 1/8th" bigger than the neck on the new tank another one of those things that changed as the used different vendors for the deck fittings and tanks
again I like the way you and Geoo lift decks , supporting and hanging it, mine had to sit on the dirty garage floor


Matty

[Lenny]

Tony, here is what your stock tank looks like if you want to re-create it.

[Mr X]

Are my eyes playing tricks, or is that a steel tank??

[Tony]

Lenny, that is my tank exactly. Great drawings, thanks for posting. HP, yes it is a steel tank. Probably a record that it lasted 37 years, and I am thankful it didn't go out with a bang!

[Tony]

Here is a picture of the tag on top of my old tank:

[mphatc]

Congrats! Seems someone is always pulling a deck here and replacing a fuel tank!

fwiw . . . my recent experiences . . . 1969 Corsican, looked like the same tank as this one you just removed. . .

I went from ~ 25 gallons to a 44 gallon tank by moving my rear tank bulkhead back as needed. This change moved my fuel sender and pick up to a point where access is under a removable floor section, previously it was impossible to access.

The difficulty came at reassembly as I was unable to use the same glass tabs on reassembly. FWIW, of 6 original tabs 5 were broken / fractured at disassembly. I reassembled with triple layer tabs in numerous locations and have added a support to the cockpit floor to the stringers. For this I used a solid piece of oak that is removable by removing a couple of screws.

My deck to hull joint was initially done with silicone . . and came apart like it was never there! Although the stuff was a total bitch to remove! As much of the strength of any boat comes from this joint I reassembled mine with 3M 5200 and doubled the original screw amount by adding a screw between the existing holes. I did this after assembling with the original holes for alignment, and then added the next set in between. Be careful. If you are replacing your rub rail you need to make sure that your screw holes are not all going to interfere with each other. Mine had been replaced prevously and there were numerous sets of screw holes from each assembly. The second set of screws realy pulled everything together! The initial set only aligned everything as original , most of the holes were worn out! No wonder I had to tighten my rubrail after everyday of boating last summer!

Mario

[penbroke]

Tony / Matty,
5/8 hose I believe...

FWIW: Mine was 1/2". Check the thru-hull vent fitting as that is the one your stuck with. The tank can be made to match. (Unless there is an updated requirement for 5/8"??)

Frank

[MOP]

I have tried to read what they call the material the tank is made of, it is probably aluminum but the name looks odd. A few had stainless tanks like Ralph Savarese's boat, his ended up leaking from the solder over the rivets starting to weep.

[mattyboy]

3/8ths 5/8ths, 220 221 what ever it takes
remember I'm pre med or pre law
what's the difference ;)

is that ID or OD

Tony Ithought my tank was an abco but now looking at yours the F must be missing on my old one the tag is the same my tank was built in late 66 too and was made of the same rusty steel ;)

Matty

[penbroke]

My old Fabco tank tag lists the material as "Terne". Same model number tank but the fill is in a different spot. It does appear some type of coated steel. Mine is dated 3-8-66.

Frank

[Tony]

Warning: Do NOT pay West Marine or Boater's World prices for 4 lb. density two-part foam. The prices at those chains varied from $56 to $84, while at this site the same product is $16.50!

http://uscomposites.com/foam.html

[Cuda]

Can that foam be shaped after it sets?

[Moody Blu']

lookin good man!

what size tank are you going with?

[Tony]

My understanding is that the foam can be carved or trimmed after it sets...if that is what you mean by shaping then yes. But someone else said (sorry for not remembering who) that trimming it opens the material up to absorbtion. It also implies this in the product description...claiming it to be impervious to liquids.

Moody, I am going with the same size (23 gal.) and shape as my old tank. My 302 Ford does pretty well, consumption-wise, and I've never really run into the need for a long range excursion sized tank.

[Lenny]

Tony, the foam has a fair amount of power to it so let it weep out from around the sides and ends of tank if you use it. I read somewhere, (don't remember where) that it has somewheres in the neighbourhood of 15 psi pressure when it expands and kicks. I used to make the smaller Boston Whalers years ago, and when we foamed you could see the force it had. If you remember way back then, the forward little mahogany hatch over the well covered the hole where the two hoses were drawn up through when the foam was injected. Just don't use too much. :) and don't try to control it by keeping it from expanding naturally.

[MOP]

Another thing as it expands it can lift the tank, to play safe block the tank so it can't be pushed up. In my old shop we have had this happen twice, one tank got damaged getting it out to redo the foam. It is also good to rough up the PVC tube and glass it to the bulkheads to keep the compartment free of any water.

Phil

[bigman]

Tony, Mop is giving you good advice. I replaced my regular tank no problem. I put an extra tank in the middle of my boat where the storage compartment is. I put a custom made tank in, about 14 gal. Took a long time to figure it out. When I foamed it I forgot to block it in place, it floated up, what a mess. Good luck, bigman.

[gcarter]

Another thing as it expands it can lift the tank, to play safe block the tank so it can't be pushed up. In my old shop we have had this happen twice, one tank got damaged getting it out to redo the foam. It is also good to rough up the PVC tube and glass it to the bulkheads to keep the compartment free of any water.

Phil
Phil, by blocking, do you mean the the tabs welded to the corners of the tank and screwed to the stringers?
Or do you mean screwing some 2X4 across the tank to the stringers? :confused:

[MOP]

Phil, by blocking, do you mean the the tabs welded to the corners of the tank and screwed to the stringers?
Or do you mean screwing some 2X4 across the tank to the stringers? :confused:

One of the tanks managed to lift 6 cement blocks just enough to get the fill fitting to high. I would screw a 2X4's near the ends cut in length to match the stringers. Use 6" flat L brackets from the hardware store screw them in good then fill the screw holes later. Not sure if I would trust the tank tabs they should hold but they may bend not sure, tabs are meant to secure a bedded tank. They are kind of ornaments on a foamed in tank, foam holds like a pissed off snapping turtle.

Phil

[sweet 16 1966]

I am doing same on my 1966 16'-also RED ! I had RDS make tank 1" longer nad higher resulting in a 26 gal tank. Recorred deck with closed cell foam 5/8" thich and glassed it in-what a job! Check your deck with it off. RDS did screw up my tank as the builder made it with a 2" fill opening as opposed to the standard 1.5"!! Was supposed to be 2" long -not OD!
Let me know if I can answer any questions--I am somewhat ahead of you with the project!

[sweet 16 1966]

I have the drawing wth measurements for the 26 gal tank if needed from RDS.

[DAULEY]

can i please get name and phone # to company to order tank
thanks bob

[sweet 16 1966]

My tank was made on 6/11/2004 by;
RDS
300 Industrial Park Drive
Perry, Florida
32348
850 584 6898

My tank was designed 1" higher and longer and is 26 gal.
Part # 63719
Good LucK!

[DAULEY]

where can i get a tank
could someone please post a name and number
i need a tank for a 1969 16
thanks bob

[Tony]

Florida Marine Tanks
305-620-9030

Print the drawings that Lenny posted (thanks again Lenny!), maybe that will be your tank in '69. It matched mine exactly except their sight gauge is dead center while mine is offset slightly to port. I guess that means that when reading empty I still have some gas left, right?