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Bigbroadjumper
07-15-2004, 10:16 PM
I am down to the last step.........Exhaust manifolds...... HEAVY......... Anyone have a trick to do this part of the job? :boggled:

Thanks

Cuda
07-15-2004, 10:28 PM
Get some threaded rod or long bolts and cut the head off. Put two in the head and then slide the manifolds on. Lot easier to start the bolts.

3/8 National Coarse

I just did that to loosen my exhaust enought to get the valve covers off. Worked like a charm.

Bigbroadjumper
07-15-2004, 10:34 PM
That sounds like the "ticket", thanks. I have old Osco manifolds and they are as heavy as the heads. It's like a couple of fat guys on the back of the boat. :)

MOP
07-16-2004, 07:00 AM
Put the manifolds on first followed by the risers, makes things a little lighter also make hooking up exhaust hoses real easy push risers into hoses then bolt up.

Phil

Bigbroadjumper
07-16-2004, 07:24 AM
Thanks to all.

rayjay
07-16-2004, 08:24 AM
Get some threaded rod or long bolts and cut the head off. Put two in the head and then slide the manifolds on. Lot easier to start the bolts....

Great and useful tips.

I would just like to add that if you can, get bolts with a shoulder longer than the thickness of your manifolds, and then cut the heads off. You may have to cut some threads off the bottom so it goes into the head and doesn't stick out too far. This will save the mounting hole in the manifold when you slide the manifold over the stud, especially if you have AL manifolds. Slightly round the cut end and then cut a screwdriver slot in the shoulder end so you can more easily remove the guide stud after you have the rest of the bolts started on the manifold. If the stud is long enough you can also grind or machine two opposing flats at the top of the shoulder end so that you can use an adjustable wrench to help you remove the guide stud. From personal experience, to keep the guide stud from binding when you are trying to remove it don't forget to use anti-seize on the threads of the guide stud, do not bottom or tighten it in the head, and remove and replace it with the correct bolt before you fully tighten all the other bolts.

You can buy guide studs like this for doing things like mounting the exhaust manifolds on cars, but I do not remember any long enough to work on a marine exhaust manifold. I'll have to check to see what is available as this would be a good tool to add to your tool box if you do a lot of your own maintenance.

rayjay

Cuda
07-16-2004, 08:36 AM
I had some that I had cut slots into so you could get them out with a screwdriver. The last set I made, I took a 36 inch piece of threaded rod and cut it in half. I could just grab it with my hands and turn them out.

rayjay
07-16-2004, 09:15 AM
...The last set I made, I took a 36 inch piece of threaded rod and cut it in half. I could just grab it with my hands and turn them out.

Then your hands are tougher than mine, but as the saying goes, if it works, it works. I made a clutch plate alignment tool from some sockets, tubing, and a long carriage bolt. I was stuck in the pits late at night fixing a blown clutch and forgot my alignment tool at home. It was late and anyway most other racers did not need an alignment tool that had an SB FORD sized pilot bearing and CHEVY clutch plate splines. So I made do with what I had. Bet if I had remembered my alignment tool I would never have blown my clutch! (LOL) That was the first and last clutch I ever blew at the track. Of course when I put that car on the street a few years later it was another story...

rayjay