water leak,new drive break in

[gero1]

have some sort of water leak inside at back of boat, all boots have been checked and are good. when sitting in the water you can hear it dripping in and pump kicks on about 1 an hour. took to ramp, left on trailer and crawled in head first, arm came out of socket, trapped!!! much pain!!! never did see where its comeing from but i aint going back in that damn hole. also have new drive on boat and was wondering what yall could tell me about breaking it in, everybody says some way different????i have to go take my medicne now, the doctor said large amounts of tequila would help reduce the pain

[MOP]

Main bellows, shift cable, water tube from drive and the meanest one Merc ever did the tiller shaft seal. When I say the meanest about the tiller shaft seal, it really upsets me, what they did was eliminate the grease fitting located at the very top of the outer transom shield. We had two last year go bad and have found 26 others in the yard that will follow suit soon, the real bitch is the engine has to come out and the transom shield had to be pulled to renew the bushing and seal. I curse them for that one, hopefully that is not your problem but it is likely. While its apart it is very wise to drill for a grease fitting, in fact anyone pulling their Mercengine with one of these lousy setups should pull the shield do the bushing and seal and add the grease fitting. The buggers at Merc should be sued for pulling that cheap trick! You can bet I will mod my new Bravo shield before it goes on my boat.

MOP

[gero1]

thanks mop but thats not what i wanted to hear, what about the new drive break in ???? the water leak,can i make it thru this summer or will it tear something else up?

[gero1]

still needing help,ideas on how to break in this new drive

[MOP]

Even though all is new I would check the main bellows, could have slight damage and leak water in which will ruin the U joint. The driver I would run easy for a few hours.

Phil

[gero1]

when the drive was off i looked and there was no water to be seen any where. leak seems to slow down when i switch from thru hull exhaust to tru the drive, pulled drive off and everything is still dry in there. none of my buddies will let me use one of there little kids to stuff down in there to see where the leak is at. thanks for your help mop

[MOP]

when the drive was off i looked and there was no water to be seen any where. leak seems to slow down when i switch from thru hull exhaust to tru the drive, pulled drive off and everything is still dry in there. none of my buddies will let me use one of there little kids to stuff down in there to see where the leak is at. thanks for your help mop

Hose leak trickling down the Y pipe?

[Digger]

may want to check raw water intake hose just forward of the coupler. good luck.

[gero1]

sorry it takes so long to reply but i drive a truck, not home alot. mop where is this y pipe?? digger i suppose the raw water hose is back there with mops y pipe!!! i think the best way to get back there is to take off a exhaust manifold ? thanks

[MOP]

sorry it takes so long to reply but i drive a truck, not home alot. mop where is this y pipe?? digger i suppose the raw water hose is back there with mops y pipe!!! i think the best way to get back there is to take off a exhaust manifold ? thanks

You mentioned the leak got worse when you switched the diverters to through prop that is what has me thinking one of your exhaust hoses that got to the Y pipe may be leaking, Just a shot in the dark.

[Digger]

gero what kind of boat/engine/drive is this? don't want to give you bad gouge

[Bad-Tat]

Robert,
If you want to look at that Y pipe you will definately have to pull the manifolds. Once those are off you can see a whole lot of stuff back there. What exactly happened to your drive?

[MOP]

You may just have to follow Bad-Tats advice to have room to work, my thought is the Y pipes tend to corrode where the hose attaches. Contact with the rubber hoses corrodes the ends, which ends up leaking after awhile. If that turns out to be the problem you will need to clean the corroded ends very well IE: Bright! then chromate and paint them. It is more than VERY important that anytime a hose connection is made to metal both the hose and mating surfaces should be coated with gasket compound this goes for both Salt & Fresh water. Rubber has some pretty bad corrosive properties and over time eats what it is attached to. Yes it does rot iron also, many times you will find a metal part that still very serviceable except the hose connection ends are shot.

Phil

[gero1]

tat, the top end came apart,have new drive on and ready to go to the lake. going out to pull off exhaust man. and see whats going back there. i just hate water in my hole. thanks

[gero1]

tat, the top end came apart,have new drive on and ready to go to the lake. going out to pull off exhaust man. and see whats going back there. i just hate water in my hole. thanks. digger - 1995 black hawk l/e . 502 , black hawk drive

[GeneD]

Leak; from what you say, sounds like the Y pipe is corroded and has a hole in it, or the gasket from the Y pipe to the gimbal is bad. The hoses probably are too high to be an issue.
Drive; when we put new drives on the race boat (Lightning Strikes, 38 Donzi ZR Super V - APBA) we don't break in. We just run...

[marcdups]

Y pipe can be had for shipping only, no gasket though