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TuxedoPk
06-22-2004, 01:46 AM
I am replacing my asphalt roof with red cedar #1 shingles and need to oil them before they are installed. The shingles are 18" long and I'm putting them up with a 5.5" exposure. The roof is 30 square so I'm dealing with a large number of shingles.

My current thought is to dip them in a large garbage pail filled with the oil stain and then to hang them up to dry (think laundry clothes lines) Has anyone done this before? Suggestions?

The two ideas I've been bouncing around are trying to clothes pin the shingles to a 50' supported steel wire or otherwise to drill a tiny hole in the top of each shingle and attach them via an S hook to the wire. Since this will be going down my driveway I plan to build a 3' wide incline catch basin under the hanging shingles to collect the stain that drips.

The new roof is going to be installed in 2 weeks and the shingles will be delivered the first week of July. I'm hoping to have a good process down because the job grows to another 30 square when I re-shingle the exterior of the house.

rayjay
06-22-2004, 06:41 AM
My current thought is to dip them in a large garbage pail filled with the oil stain and then to hang them up to dry (think laundry clothes lines) Has anyone done this before? Suggestions?

The two ideas I've been bouncing around are trying to clothes pin the shingles to a 50' supported steel wire...

Cloths pins should work, but you may need two for the larger shingles. Do NOT use plastic cloths pins. Some are effected by the solvents in oil stain. Hold the cloths pins to dip the shingles so that the shingles do not slip on the "oil" stain. The little unstained spot will be well covered by succeeding courses. Hanging works real good, I think better than drying on racks, as the run-off stain flows to the exposed edge of the shingle and provides just a bit more protection. My Dad liked racks as the stain could sit on the exposed face which he thought would help it soak in.

My advice would be to square the sides on any shingles that are really out of square before you stain and use a 5 gallon bucket instead of a large garbage pail. Less bending over and reaching to dip the shingles and much less waste of stain at the end of the job. You'll have to fill the 5 gallon more often, but you'll need the break from the monotony every so often.

Are you using a spun matrix or skip sheathing under the shakes?

rayjay

Lenny
06-22-2004, 10:19 AM
Tux, look into Sikkens "Cetol" ( an Azko Nobel product). It is by far the BEST product I have ever used, as well as sworn by many others here, on cedar. It comes in various stain colours, as well as clear (my favorit) and will flash very quickly. It is usually a "step 1,2,3 thing" but I have used just step one and had NO problems. About ten years ago I built an outdoor "club-house, learning center" for a Montessori School here on the water. To this day, no lie, it looks like I just stained the cedar. It is a GREAT product. Look into it. You won't want to "dip" the shingles in it tho. A wide brush, and a quick stroke, ... :eek: , and it will go right in. It is a very thin viscosity and penetrates easily.

It is not cheap but seems to last forever. We pay about $100 a gallon here, so figure about $75 US. The first coat dissappears but a subsequent coat sits on top nicely and goes a long ways.

Doug L.
06-22-2004, 11:34 AM
I used Superdeck on our house Sikkens was alot more work.
Doug