Buffer Help

[Greg Maier]

I just got a high-speed buffer in the mail and I'm getting ready to compound and buff my gelcote. The buffer came with a wool pad and some foam pads. What pad should be used for compounding and what pad should be used for buffing?

[txtaz]

I hired a pro to do mine because it was taking forever by hand. He used the foam pad for the compound and did the wax by hand. He does all the RV's in the area so I would think he knows his business.
Hope this helps,
Wes

[Bruce B.]

The wool pad is for heavy compounding,the foam pads are for compounding and final glazing.Good Luck.

[mikev]

use the wool pads for compounding and polishing the compond will destroy the foam pads. the foam pads are for getting te swirls out after you compound and polish I only seem to need them on dark colors. I start out with 3m heavy polishing compond with a wool pad do a 2' x 2' area starting with heavy pressure and progressivly lighten it as you finnish the area, when done with that wipe the entire boat down with a wet towel to remove the compund. next get another clean wool pad and buff it with 3m finesse-it 2 same procedure as with the compound and wipe it down again when you are done. this usualy jut leaves minor swirls that come out when you wax it with the orbital buffer be sure to use some pressure on the orbital buffer when you wax it and use a cleaner wax it has a super fine polish to remove the swirls. If it still has swirls then you will need to get 3m swirl remover glaze and use the foam pad. I rarely need to do this step accept on black and very dark colors. good luck remember practice makes prefect and gelcoat is alot thicker than paint so alot less chance of burning through it. good luck

[DonziNUTS]

I spray a little water from a spray bottle when I use the polishing pad (usually black pad) and I do not get swirl marks!

[smokediver]

greg, throw the wool pad in the garbage . no offense to anyone, but man do they leave swirls ! if it is bad , wet sand the boat down to 2000 grit . Finess-it is so darn expensive . use 3m part # 5933, a none abraisive compound, and a white 3m waffle pad # 5723 . the 5933 is newer tech. that in my opinion is better than finess-it . if you have a dark hull or stripe follow the 5933 with perfect-it 2 machine glaze for dark colored vehicles with a black waffle pad #5725.Dont use the new perfect-it 3 machine glaze . it sucks. then use a good carnuba wax. you will have very little if any swirls from the 5933 ,unless you have a really dark colored hull. This is my side business and I have used this system with great results . if you go the foam pad route , you will need to get a hook-it backing pad. when you do , get the little extension that is used for double sided pads. it will put your polisher a little further from the work surface and allow you better vision on your work.

[Donzigo]

Just compounded the Z-33 - 1989 year model, last week. I used some good abrasive from the Blue Ribbon company, then used (Corvette wax), Liquid Glass, as wax. Worked great. I used the fur pad for application, then wool to take it off. No swirls. I've also heard of some stuff called Aqua Buff for oxidized hulls. Cuda says it great. Smokediver has good points, too. Just depends on what works for YOU.

Good luck.

[mikev]

i have never really had problems with swirls using the finesse-it 2 and a wool pad but i use the componding pads only not the polishing pads because they do leave swirls. the waffle pads a great on black with 3m swirl remover but i rarley have to use it accept on back cars never needed to use it on gel. but I do polish starting slowly with alot of pressure and increase the speed and lighten the pressure as the pollsih dries to the point were the only pressure is the weight of the buffer itself.

[Stix Magill]

I know this may sound silly, but could someone please give me some detailed instructions on using a buffer? I am in the process of wet sanding and I really don't want to screw things up. I buffed a small area with the 3M Heavy Duty Compound and I noticed the compound dries quickly. When do I stop? How much do I use? Will a bottle do my Minx (20 foot)? I am going to follow it with the Finesse It II and then wax. Please recommend a wax too.

I don't want to hurt the hull nor waste a bunch of time!:hangum:

Thanks guys!

[smokediver]

what grit are you sanding down to ? You can buff out 1200 grit sand scratches with 3m super duty and a wool pad .. I would go to 1500 .. Put a little ribbon of compound on your buffer pad and do a 2 foot by 2 foot area on slow speed just to apply out the material and minimize sling ... after you do that , increase speed to about 1800 rpm maybe a tad less and just work the product around until you are happy with the results .. than do another area and so on .. Every now and the , spur the compound out of the pad .. they sell spurs or you can use a good paint stick .. wear a particulate mask with the super duty compound as it has a lot of silica in it ... when it is all done get a fresh pad and do the same with the finness-it just run the rpm's up to about 22 - 2300 rpm ... just whatever is working for you .. after that .. just wax it .. I usually apply wax by hand and remove it with a yellow wool pad on slow speed .. then wipe it down with a good detail cloth .. should look great when you are done !:yes:

[mrfixxall]

I know this may sound silly, but could someone please give me some detailed instructions on using a buffer? I am in the process of wet sanding and I really don't want to screw things up. I buffed a small area with the 3M Heavy Duty Compound and I noticed the compound dries quickly. When do I stop? How much do I use? Will a bottle do my Minx (20 foot)? I am going to follow it with the Finesse It II and then wax. Please recommend a wax too.
I don't want to hurt the hull nor waste a bunch of time!:hangum:
Thanks guys!

First when using a buffer you need to buff with constant seady pressure at alow speed works the best..also do a 2'x2' area and work it until its hazy,you will not get a good shine with coarse buffing compound.i prefer a wool pad vs a foam pad..now wash all the compounded boat til all the compound is off the boat..now change you buffing pad to a finer wool compound pad.. now go over the boat with perfect-it fine compound (white) again apply alot of hard steady pressure at a slow speed works the best..

Wash the boat again after buffing, you want to get rid of all the fine compound so when you start polishing it the serface with the foam polishing pad glaze none of the compound interfears with the shinny serface so you done see the scratches..

Follow with 3m hand glaze and then wax to protect..

[Stix Magill]

Thanks guys. I really apreciate it.
I have been planning on 600, 800, 1000, 1200, then HD compound, Finesse it II, and then wax. I will add the 1500 (can't hurt) before compound and and 3M hand Glaze before wax.

I feel so much better after hearing from you guys.

Wish me luck.:crossfing:

Thanks again!

[Tony]

I went through what you are about to, and described the project in detail here, (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=45432) with a follow-up thread here. (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46093)

For the final finish, do a search for a product called "Leverage". I am using it instead of the carnuba/petroleum waxes, so far with outstanding results. Several others are also quite impressed. There is an explanation as to why it is perceived to be superior, but it is very lengthy. Search here and also over on OSO for Donnie Fulmer, aka Marine Clean.

:beer:

[Stix Magill]

Tony,
Your boat looks great. If mine turns out 1/2 that nicely I will be thrilled. Where did you get your decals?

[BigGrizzly]

I love the Leverage stuff and take it to all the rally s. people who use it love it. They also have a vinel cleaner and also protectent that is better than 303 or armorall.