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guy with the red donzi
05-06-2004, 09:19 PM
Hey
I just got my Donzi and I need some ideas to fix it. First I need to recore the deck. What should I use for the core? Next anyone have any idea on how I can bring the deck back to it's original shape? It has beeen sitting for years with the rotten deck and the whole deck settled. The place it settled the most is right between where the passangers sit and the motor hatch is. If anyone has some suggestions it would be great.
thanks
John

Lenny
05-06-2004, 09:53 PM
HUGE job, but worth it. I have some ideas for you after you separate the two parts (hull/deck) after you FIRST secure the perimeter of the deck both longitudely and across the beam. Too much in my way of thinking to be "mentioned" here but you can call me...250.474.4005

First you will have to "lock" the shape in place prior to removing the deck, so it can be flipped over and sit flat on the shop floor thoroughly supported. Then remove old coring, all of it. Next step is some pressure applied ply products to re-introduce the arc. It goes on for miles from here on in.

I don't understand why that area is broken unless undo force was applied to it, or many people sitting there. There is no coring there normally, just a heavy lay-up.

What size is it, what year is it, what hull number is it, (this is important) and do you want to spend THAT much time and money to re-invent it or just buy one in better shape and go boating? I learned this the hard way, more than once.!

Lenny :D

guy with the red donzi
05-06-2004, 10:41 PM
hey
It's either a 67 or 68 16. It had a 302 in it. We already had the deck off but put it back on since we did not have the time for it last year. My dad had a name on here arie_s or something. I will upload some pics of it. We never found a hull number on it though. I am willing to spend the time and money on it. I have all summer. This is going to be my project for the summer and plus I don't have a girlfriend so I will have money to fix it :biggrin.:
thanks
john

MOP
05-06-2004, 11:24 PM
Len I think he has the depression between the top of the seat back and the hatch opening. Thats a pain been there done that, need to gut the coring heat lamp it back into shape. Thats about the same as getting the indents out of a sail boat hull where some fool tightened thr rig to tight. I have had extremely good luck by making a jig with vertical uprights to match the contours for it to settle down on when heated, weighting from above and heat lamping from the bottom, let it cool it will hold the shape.

Phil

Lenny
05-07-2004, 12:57 AM
John, ..if you are COMMITTED, I will help you as much as I can that I am "fluent" in, as will many others and their areas of expertise. You do not have a rare boat from the sounds of it, and I hope you are willing to spend about a conglomerate of about 80-100 hours on the deck alone BEFORE paint prep. You WILL have fillers it it when you are done and happy.
Then there is the money part. Not mine or anyone elses. But yours'. The freebee info from people WELL BEYOND MY TALENT comes from here for free, thanks to Scot Van A... It will boggle your mind who resides here. Get committed (not in an institution, but here,) show us what you have, what you want to do, and the rest will be a "Yellow Brick Road"..BUT, you best be a "driven" personality, 'cuz there are more than a few hurdles that will dumb you down. Personality and perseverance lifts you through that.

WELCOME :D

You READY ??? :D :D :D

P.S ...ever seen Survivor ? :D

oh,..and MOP, they don't core that area, it has no purpose, it is 3" wide and can be accomplished in glasswork much cheaper..Where have you seen the rear seat deck/hatch area cored??? I understand the port and starboard are along where the vents go, but NEVER the 3" area. Did you have that on something??? :lookaroun

MOP
05-07-2004, 07:01 AM
I will try to call you later with some of my antique methods.

Phil

guy with the red donzi
05-08-2004, 12:04 AM
hey
like I said I have all summer to work on it. The rest of the hull is good. Its just that deck thats rotten. O when we put the deck back on we put some pieces of wood on the stringers to raise the floor up a little and it brought the area that was settleing close to where it has to be. Does the floor of the deck sit on the stringers??? Also what materiel should I use for recoring?
thanks
john

BERTRAM BOY
05-08-2004, 06:43 AM
John,
I am just finishing a 1965 16 project. It's been recored, rewired, re-engined, etc. ect.
As far as recoring is concerned, I would find a 16 that is around the same year, and build a "jig" to copy the shape of the front deck, so that when you flip the deck over, it rests in the jig so it won't flex. Because he deck is the longest shape, when you remove the core, it will change shape fairly easy (how do I know this?) The rest of the areas are not as much of a concern because they are much smaller.
As far as core material is concerned, I used end-grained balsa, as oppossed to longitudinal grained balsa(which is what is in your boat) which is much more susseptable to rot.
When I recored my deck I didn't make a jig. f I had to do it again, I probably would. When I put my deck back on , It was "tweaked" a little bit, but I was able to bring it back. I was lucky, You probably wouldn't see it unless I pointed it out to you.
I have a lot more pics if you are interested.

BERTRAM BOY :cool!: :cool!: :cool!:

MOP
05-08-2004, 08:17 AM
John "Cliff" has given you a very good base plan, making templates and building a jig is time consuming but well worth the effort and not near as hard as it sounds. As Cliff said end grain balsa is far superior to what Donzi used, me I would go the extra expense of some of the newer high tech stuff lighter and stronger and do not allow water intrusion.

Divinicell, Kledgecell, Corecell are a few, many manufacturers do not use resin to attach coring materials but use the newer far stronger coring adhesives. The URL below was given to me my glass guy it is something he says it is very easy to use and form and presents -0- attachment problems that some coring product do.

http://www.3m.com/market/industrial/additives/prods/coring.html

Cliff boat is looking excellent, also I see you put the garage on a massive DIET!!!

BERTRAM BOY
05-08-2004, 08:35 AM
Phil,
I agree with you on the quality, strength, and rot resistance of foam coring products. However, to get the same strength out of them, they need to be substantually thicker. That's sometimes a problem in the corners.
End grain balsa is some amazing stuff.......When it's kept dry that is !!!!!!

Lenny
05-08-2004, 10:19 AM
Cliff, I have also been told by more than a few here, that build BIG expensive yachts, that E.G. Balsa is the most bang for the buck and provides the most ridgidity for its' thickness as well. Core-mat and Air-cell, hexcell etc, all require a more "engineered approach."

Here is an "idea" of what I did in the past to support the deck. unforntunately I can't find the disc with these pics on. Anyways, this is the concept and you "scribe" while the deck is on the hull still to get an accurate shape. The 3 longitudinal "stringers" are scribed to the deck, first the center one, then one on either port or starboard. Then make the other port or starboard one from a copy of the other. I then took a laser builders' level on the shop floor, and "shot" the line from one side of the boat. As I cut it off on the line the laser projects to the next plywood stringer. After doing this three times your done. Then I joined then together using a sliding joint concept for the port to starboard connections. The amount of them is up to you. Just provide enough support so the deck doesn't move once upside down. I found 30" was an ideal working height to play with. Here is a pic of the concept.

wagspe208
09-03-2007, 09:56 PM
I have a soft deck (excuse me? LOL)
OK, this may be a dumb question, but here goes...I will remove the deck and fiip it over. Easy enough. You guys say to support the deck before removing the plywood coring material. Now here goes...
Instead of building an elaborate jig setup..why can't I just use some packing foam and trashbags? You know, the stuff that you crush the inside and it blowes up and fills gaps? Like they ship heavy parts in.
I have an 18...front is soft....I want a deck I can dance on. Why would I want to put marine plywood back in place? Why not use some new core materials...never rot, covered with cloth anyway?
Wags
Thanks