Minx Stringers

[gcarter]

Since the last time I posted about the Minx's stringers, alot's been happening.
Just a reminder, when I bought the boat, I noticed as soon as I removed the engine, the transverse frame (or "offshore mount") in front of the engine was cracked in the area of the hull joint in several places ( I guess a few hard landings).
Additionally, upon further inspection, there were some problems with the manner in which the stringers were 'glassed into the hull, I suppose it's inevitable there's a problem occasionally. Also there were some delaminated glass areas in the stringers, also a crack in the stringer/ hull joint.
So what to do?
I polled a couple of board members, and after picking their brains (MOP & JimG205). Yes, they do have brains, thank you!
I formulated the following plan;
Cut out the stringer fiberglass delaminated area.
Ground out the stringer hull joint, port & starboard.
Allowed the stringer core material to drain & dry out. Although the stringer core looked contaminated by rot, it was actually quite firm.
Thickened some epoxy w/ microfibers and inserted as much under the stringer cores (the gap was 1" in places).
Formed a fillet with a large radius on inside and outside of both stringers. Layed up a number of layers of fiberglass tabbing in the stringer/ hull jpint. I finished it off with some matt bonded triax I found somewhere (really hard to saturate). I guess there's three or four times as much glass in the joint as originally.
Built a new transverse frame (three pieces) and glassed it out of the boat (unlike originally).
I sealed the raw wood edges of the frame components with epoxy.
Next I marked the location of the frame components on the hull. I buttered some thickened epoxy in the marked area and installed the frame components. As soon as the thickened epoxy joint had hardened, I formed a thickened epoxy joint fillet similar to the ones in the stringer/ hull joints.
Finally, I tabbed in the transverse frame, again with additional 'glass in the joint. So now this frame has two methods of attachment, epoxy and 'glass.
My motive is to build a better boat. If anyone sees anything wrong with my methodology, give me a shout. It's not too late yet. At this point there's still no hardware in there.
I welcome all comments, I've never owned a boat of this type previously, and more than anything I want to do it right.

George

[JimG205]

Nice job George ! The pics look great compared to what you started with.You should have no problem with water getting trapped,and most of all a stronger engine mount.Have you considered applying to Donzi Marine as a glass tech???????
E-mail me some pics when you get a chance.Regards,Jim :eek:

[Lenny]

Looks good George. Nice job. I find the axial matt backed hybrids are not that hard to use. They do wet out well. A trick with them, is to use a 1 oz or 1 1/2 matt on top of any layer previously layed down when you are in tight (low radius) and or complex shapes. I know the matt back saves a step in the lay-up of re-inforcements, but in Rovens and Kyntex type products it is a REAL pain to keep down until it kicks. I find this works very well for future reference. The Kyntex will lay nicely in most applications, it is just in situations like you have there and things like the engine hatch lip, seat lips etc.

Looks great. Always lead in with a mat on any lay-up and never two rovens (unless backed with a matt) in a row. It provides a better bond and eliminates (if done properly) print thru. Most new style hybrid re-inforcements equipped with this have a .8 or 1 oz backer sewn in or polyester bound. The fillet was a good idea.

:)

[MOP]

Gee George no mention of the copper ring nails driven in to hold them in place :rlol: Did come out sweet!

Phil

[gcarter]

That's because there ain't none!
Epoxy- Yes!, ring nails- No!

George :wavey: