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View Full Version : Cleaver props & others......



Moody Blu'
07-26-2002, 11:03 AM
here are 3 left hand props

S&S cleaver 14x21p left
nybral 15x22p center
elephant ear 14 1/2 x 24p right

my current prop is a aluminum 14x23p
im hitting 53 mph @5000-5200 rpm's on gps

Would I get any speed increase going to a lower pitched prop even though its stainless(I know it takes more power to turn a stainless) wouldnt a 2 pitch drop make the props about even?

I wanted to get the cleaver but I hear they are for stern lift and they keep the bow down.
has anyone used a cleaver on there 18' classic? how did it work??

the other two props are bronze and I could only see going with the 14 1/2x24p elephant ear, do you guys think I would gain any speed withthis prop?

do any of you guys think that the 22p nybral would work?

I can only test one prop so Im sort of SOL
by looking at them what prop do you guys think I should try out.

I can try the others but I have to try them one at a time...

thanks for any advice and info wink

http://www.donzi.net/photos/props1.jpg

BigGrizzly
07-26-2002, 11:45 AM
The elefant ear was origonally named the Volvo high speedprop. I use a 15X23 on the Corsican. It is by Hill thoe and is a over the hub likr the middle prop. My suggestion is try them all with a Gps and the pin in the middle hole. This keeps the verables down. Our 16 uses the 22 pich prop. If you can pull it the 24 it will bring you down to about 4800 -4900 andwould be the best all around prop with that lower unit. The Bybral with the 15 diameter and the biggest part of the blade on the out side would drop the rpms about 100 and may give better acceleration than what you have now.

Randy

boldts
07-26-2002, 12:16 PM
Moody - What's wrong with testing each prop one at a time? If they fit the 250 Volvo drive, I'd test each one. That's how you get a basis as to what to try next along with what works on your boat and what not to waste money on. Testing is seat time and seat time is fun even if the product being tested doesn't live up to expectations. You may find that none of these 3 props work good on your boat, but you'll now have information that you could talk to say Hill Propellers to help them get the right prop for your set-up. Once you get the prop shop's recomendations, you start all over by first either buying a prop from them and testing it or shopping for something used and testing it. There are even prop shops out there that for a deposit will allow you to try a prop until you find what works best. They may even let you take 2 or 3 at a time. Best part of the whole deal, is your on the water and running WOT while testing props. :D

Moody Blu'
07-26-2002, 12:34 PM
I want to try all three props, but I can only try one prop at a time because I dont have the cash to test all 3 props... I can get my money back but its a long drive ......and im dead broke (im saving up for the drive)

maybe I can work something out with the my friend who has the props....griz really thats volvo high speed prop? :D

I hope i get osme top end out of it...

so should I try the cleaver first or the elephant ear???

I wish I could test all 3, artie i hope your reading this!

BigGrizzly
07-26-2002, 01:25 PM
That is what Volvo called it. If you look in the old Book that is what they called it. That style works on my boat and is the style that Hill sells. In my opinion the only prop that works as well is the 4 Blade Ultra prop "The prop they never made" that a good friend is letting me test to keep it out of the hands of novices.

Randy

mattyboy
07-26-2002, 06:56 PM
where are these props Moody????????????? up north here???????hehehehehehe only kidding
I'd stay away from the cleaver they like running at the waterline in airated water with a raised x dimension ain't gonna happen with the 250 I'd try the round ear first

matt

MOP
07-26-2002, 07:13 PM
Moody try to get the R's down a little, try the props then maybe add a cup or an inch of pitch depending on which prop you go with.

fasttrucker
07-26-2002, 07:44 PM
i just put a custom 14 1/2x26 spinelli. on my 502 mag ithink iam pushing aropund 450-485 hp.w/ my mod.s maybe you can check them out?

THESCOOTER
07-26-2002, 09:28 PM
first if you hit something in the water with the stst prop and with the hubless nybral you can kiss you drive good bye. with aluminum you will wreck the prop ,with the proper hub, you will save the drive. stay with the alum.with a good hub . you boat will not be that much faster with the other props anyway, and your rs should drop anyway. go to more pitch on alm.for example or more dia. cup etc. if you want to experiment. do you have cavitation or or any type of cavitation burns or scarring paint coming off the drive and props etc. what is the reason you want the other props on you boat anyway? i have been down this road before myself. if it works donont change it. proping a boat is almost a sceince in itself to get the best over all performance.example. for getting of the hole to top end .by the way is your tach correct did you check it with a good shop tach. also remember we do not run our boats wide open all the time pick a prop for everthing been in your shoes on props, before buying get a prop book and read it before moving on to a new prop the scooter

fasttrucker
07-27-2002, 08:01 AM
i think thats bull :mad: ive hit lots of stuff,manatees logs, docks at full speed,ect. with my stainless props and never ever did any damage to my drive. :cool: ive destoyed all my alluim. props. :( i think when u boat u got to expect things to go wrong sometimes so my advice is to go stainless. wink

THESCOOTER
07-27-2002, 12:13 PM
i did not mean to cause any waves sorry . we all have our own ideas. the only reasons i said that was 1. it is a older drive i think a 250 volvo.with older drives you never know.what is in side2. i have been boating for for 35 years on our family boat and my own.you name i might have seenit or heardit or it happen to me.but there is always a new story.sometimes i findit more fun to run it as reliable as possible because there is always something on a older boat and a new one that needs attenion . again sorry just my idea. the scooter

Moody Blu'
07-31-2002, 01:00 PM
anyhow.....

I am going to test the prop on the right this weekend....(14 1/2x 24p)

I'll let yally know how it turns out..

the prop hasnt been labbed, cupped or repitched, so I have room for experimentation....

MOP
08-01-2002, 08:22 AM
Sorry I missed you the other day at Art's hope you see a nice improvemnt with that wheel.

Moody Blu'
08-02-2002, 12:07 PM
thanks m.o.p.

Moody Blu'
08-02-2002, 10:14 PM
well, It took me about 3 hours to get the old prop off the boat, it seems I tightened the cone down to much last time I had the prop off and it was almost impossible to get the retaining plate to allow the cone to loosen.

I kept bending metal spikes with my breaker bar and the cone wasnt moving past the retainer. the cone was moving but the damn retainer wasnt allowing it to move, and it kept bending metal.

I finally found some hardened center punches and that worked.
I got it off... :D

HEHE it inly took about 1 minute to put the new prop on..

but damn those 3 hours were worth it :p wink

TOMMOROW is test day........ :D :D :D

MOP
08-02-2002, 10:21 PM
Looking forward to you getting back with the results. I hope to get out this weekend myself.

fasttrucker
08-03-2002, 07:48 AM
iam trying a new prop today myself,its a bravo-1 from bronson prop.s.iam going to size 24 pitch to see if i can gain some top end speed. my spinelli 26-pitch seems to be slow on top end too low rpm?for my motor may buy a pro-charger?anyway sorry about ranting on about alum props,but i cant stand them! :mad:

Moody Blu'
08-03-2002, 08:15 PM
well, I was out today, the boat seemed like it was hitting higher speeds and about 4800-4900 rpm's

not by much though...

I do understand the prop is stock, im hoping some labbing and cupping will bring the speed up even more... and maybe even repitching it..

my old 14x 23p was cupped and I was hitting 5300 rpms at 53 mph...

ill go out tomorow with the gps and find out my speed.

Ill say one thing though, the boat feels more solid on the water with this prop and is less prone to cavitation..
the steering wheel is a bit heavier but I dont mind...

now I need my gt 40 heads and work to he prop...

ill post the gps speeds tomorow....

oh yeah the bay was flat today when i got in choppy stuff i felt the boat move out a bit more, and the mph gauge went up a bit too.

I need like a 2 foot chop to really see what this baby will do....

tommorow!!!!
im goin to the inlet!

MOP
08-05-2002, 08:24 AM
Moody are you fresh water cooled? The GT40 heads are alum, I sold the ones off my block and went to stock 351 heads. Not sure but there may be better cast iron heads out there.

Rootsy
08-05-2002, 08:29 AM
as far as cast iron sbf heads? the windsor and windsor jr by world castings are good cylinder heads... and SVO made (and i donno bout still makes)GT-40 and GT-40P heads and others in cast iron...

yikes 351 heads on your 302??? so much for compression ratio...

jengel
08-06-2002, 11:54 PM
well? it sounds like most of you expect the elephant ear to win. It sounds like a similar design to what Moody has, only with more pitch and less cup.

So, Moody, how did it do?

Moody Blu'
08-06-2002, 11:59 PM
I wanna try out that cleaver but I think ill rev out to like 5600 I dont want that,.........

brb gotta play a FPS game (action half life)k i can finish my post now......

They do make gt-40 heads in CAST IRON there in the summit catalog.....
there only 500 somethin....with ford motorsport valves and springs
I think I want to swap my cam when I install my new heads, the engine is coming out so I can put the new drive in which has trim..

ill have gps speeds this weekend, but I think there about the same maybe a bit faster DEFINATELY more solid in the water....

my boat was loose with my old prop
it feels more solid now.

I'm gonna remove the little steering thing a ma bob ;p this weekend and put a washer there....

I hope that helps..