Rubbing compound, what's best...

[Lenny]

I went to West Marine today to get something to machine cut/polish the GT hull. It is oxidized quite badly but the gel-coat has no crazing or cracks in it. Just a white swirly film.

I bought 3-M 05954 Rubbing Compound and did a small patch on the foredeck. It turned out great.

Question, is there something better, should I do it differently or is this adequate. I seems quite "gritty" but the finish isn't scratched by it. Do I carry on? or buy something from the Floridans' and have it shipped?

I am spinning a lambs wool at 2500 rpm.

Thanks in advance. Lenny

[Greg K]

Here's some more 3M products you might want to consider..listed in order of least to most abrasive..
-Perfect It II Swirl Mark Remover (PN # 39009 for 16oz. bottle)
-Perfect It III Machine Glaze
-Finesse It II Finishing Material (PN # 39003 for 16 oz. bottle)
-Perfect It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound (PN # is 39002)
-Imperial Microfinishing Rubbing Compound (Medium-Cut) PN # 39001
-Super Duty Rubbing Compound (Heavy-Cut) PN # 39004

Someone will also probably chime in with Aqua-Buff http://www.aqua-buff.com
And another is Totally Buff http://www.fountainofyouthrestore.com/totally_buff.html

Have fun..

[Rootsy]

3M super duty on a wool pad for sure for cutting heavy oxidation... then if it isn't quite smooth enough for ya go to a finesse-it compound on a foam pad then to a finesse-it polishing compound on another foam pad... works for me.. like a charm.. but as you know don't stagnate with that buffer... gel will burn...

[customan]

3m makes good stuff but just be careful with the buffer stayaway from edges ,ribs ,u could burn through the gell coat. allways keep the wheel moving, u dont want to heat up the surface. compound can stain vinal, rubber ,canvas ,so dont fling the compond all over the place.u should clean all cracks from compound rite away ,cause when it drys it turns to cement ,after compound use a finish glaze followed by a nice wax oh,yha white pads r 4 cutting yellow & black pollish

[Cuda]

Aquabuff.

[Woodsy]

Lenny...

STOP!! Don't use a rubbing compound if you can avoid it. Have the boat wetsanded, especially if the gel is in good shape just oxidized... its way too easy to burn a highly oxidized gel with rubbing compound.... the guys around here get about $15 per foot and they are insured... The boat will look brand new... add a nice UV inhibitor wax and it will look like new for a long time.

Woodsy Von Outboard

[mphatc]

Lenny,

I completely agree with Woodsy! I have been doing this for years on oxidized finishes including gelcoat.

You need to get rid of the dead gel, and not polish it, so sand it off, then polish with a good polish, wash off with soap and water before waxing with a good UV inhibiting wax. Make sure any product you use does not have silicone in it!

Be careful, some old boats no longer have flat smooth surfaces, like the deck on my Corsican . . which is crowned as well. I sanded this with 1000 grit paper soaked in water for 24 hours using a soft pliable foam block to follow the waves and contours. I found mine at a quality auto body paint supplier.

FWIW, I wanted to keep the old boat look, and was concerned that if I sanded the deck with a standard hard form sanding block the color would not be even, although the deck would then be "perfect" in contour . . . I didn't want to remove only the high points . .leaving a speckled color look . . does that make sense???


Mario L.

[Cuda]

Lenny...

STOP!! Don't use a rubbing compound if you can avoid it. Have the boat wetsanded, especially if the gel is in good shape just oxidized... its way too easy to burn a highly oxidized gel with rubbing compound.... the guys around here get about $15 per foot and they are insured... The boat will look brand new... add a nice UV inhibitor wax and it will look like new for a long time.

Woodsy Von Outboard

Huh? How do you burn gel with a rubbing compound? Rubbing compound isn't any different than wet sanding. It all has abrasive to it, just one's on paper and the other isn't. It's much easier to follow the countour of the boat with compound than it is with sandpaper.

[Woodsy]

Cuda...

VERY different processes.... although they both use an abrasive, one in paste form, one on a paper. They processess is different. a rotary wheel and paste create ALOT of heat if left in one spot for too long or if too much pressure is applied. (I won't get into swirl marks caused by the pad getting dirty) It will actually heat up and burn the gel coat. Wetsanding uses water to cool the surface of the gel and carry away the oxidized gel that was removed. Rubbing compound is ok to use on a lightly oxidized hull, IF thats a BIG IF you know what you are doing. For heavy oxidation, wetsanding is the only way to go...

Woodsy Von Outboard

[customan]

if u wet sand wether it be with 1000grit or 2000 grit u still have to use compound to get the scratches out, wet sanding should be done by a pro . 1000grit as soft as it is can take off alot of material .1 peice of dirt under the papper ,and u got a scratch "u aint buffin out" your wheel should turn about 1500-1800 rpm white is forgiving if u tryed the" wet sand and wax " thing on a darker color it would look like s*!tt Ive repaired painted/gellcoated wet sanded & buffed thousands of cars boats bikes ext. over the last 20 years ,man time flys the chemicals havent hurt me none ! what were we talking about ?i think the ice is out

[Lenny]

I have now tried both ways. The rubbing compound and wheel is by far the easiest and leaves the smoothest finish from the start. Yes, the wet and dry (1000) does a nice job but even with flexible 3-M and Stik-It pads (rubber) they both get the highs (even tho barely visibil with water running over it and the recieved reflection) and the lows are a ways down to be sure. No more than a couple/few thou but a ways. I probably have about 20-25 thou to play with but this seems a bit "harsh". Also, the wet sand does leave fine scratches that do need polishing.

I think I will compound it... Thanx all for your opinions.

By the way, it is coming up "new". :)

[Cuda]

Cuda...

VERY different processes.... although they both use an abrasive, one in paste form, one on a paper. They processess is different. a rotary wheel and paste create ALOT of heat if left in one spot for too long or if too much pressure is applied. (I won't get into swirl marks caused by the pad getting dirty) It will actually heat up and burn the gel coat. Wetsanding uses water to cool the surface of the gel and carry away the oxidized gel that was removed. Rubbing compound is ok to use on a lightly oxidized hull, IF thats a BIG IF you know what you are doing. For heavy oxidation, wetsanding is the only way to go...

Woodsy Von Outboard
When you use the aquabuff, you keep the deck wet, I guess that's why we didn't have any problem with burning the gel. Stuff is just great. Try it, you'll like it. :)