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View Full Version : Which bilge pump to get??



bverd
03-18-2004, 09:03 AM
Alright, amoung other things I am replacing my bilge (CDMA no comments here) and I was curious which ones are the good ones out there. BoatUS pretty much as "Rule" and that is it. I talked to a couple marine centers and they don't like the Rule's. I did hear that "Lovette"(sp) is a good one. So I am here looking for advice.

Second... what about the location of the pump in the bilge. I have a flat area right under the motor that is where the old one was. I have seen pumps in 22's that have it closer to the back seat just before the second cross member. Where is the best location?

--bverd

Greg K
03-18-2004, 09:20 AM
I have a Rule 1500 with a Rule float switch. From my experience it's worked fine and don't see any problems with it. It's also mounted on a flat spot under the motor.

RedDog
03-18-2004, 09:32 AM
To twist your topic a little - have you thought about adding 2 pumps with 1 wired to each battery (assuming you have dual batteries). And if this was to be done, how would the 2 pumps be plumbed together?

To get back to your question, I have a Sure Bail float switch and I think it is an Atwood pump (I should know after rewiring it 3 times in the past month - at least the wiring in the bildge area is neat now)). No real opinion plus or minus on these components.

My pump and float switch are both just in front of the engine in the 22C.

Genuine Risk
03-18-2004, 09:52 AM
Alright, amoung other things I am replacing my bilge (CDMA no comments here) and I was curious which ones are the good ones out there. BoatUS pretty much as "Rule" and that is it. I talked to a couple marine centers and they don't like the Rule's. I did hear that "Lovette"(sp) is a good one. So I am here looking for advice.

Second... what about the location of the pump in the bilge. I have a flat area right under the motor that is where the old one was. I have seen pumps in 22's that have it closer to the back seat just before the second cross member. Where is the best location?

--bverd
The Lovetts are pricey. That said, they are the only ones I use.

MOP
03-18-2004, 10:23 AM
Being in the boat biz the Rules seem to be the most trouble free, Attwood and Lovette are also good pumps. I like to go way over on size, rigged with both an auto float switch and a auto high water alarm that not only sounds a buzzer but is wired as a second main pump actuator in case the other switch fails. Doing this way does add about 2 hours extra work and Roughly $75 bucks. RedDogs idea of two pump is another very good thought, I have a small Attwood for my 2nd pump that I am mount as low and far aft as I can get it, it will be on its own circuit and will actuate first to keep the bilge as dry as possible. The way the Donzi's sit in the water they have to get a fair bit of water in them to get the forward mounted pumps to kick in.

McGary911
03-18-2004, 11:30 AM
I've never had a Rule pump fail. I have 3 on my big boat. I have one mounted just forward of the engines and one as far back as possible. At rest the water pools by the forward pump, but if i am underway and start leaking, all the water rushes to the back by the transom. That's where the back pump will save the day. I had a stuffing box partially fail, and the combination of these 2 pumps saved what could have been a horrible day.

Another important thing that I see wrong on a lot of pumps. Make sure the outlet hose rises at least 6" above your thru hull. If not, wave action hits the thru hull, water will get into the bilge because there is no check valve on a bilge pump. The bit of rise in the hose will keep the water out. The reason that there is no checkvalve, is so the pump will do a quick gravity backflush when the pump shuts off. Helps keep the screen clean.

MOP
03-18-2004, 01:24 PM
Check valves though bothersome at times are good for two things, some discharge hoses can be quite long when the pump shuts off the water runs back and triggers the pump again I have seen it start the pump several times before spitting a little more out so it quits the cycling. Also if you want to run the setup I like using one for sucking way down and one for pumping a lot if you have trouble and don't want two discharges, you can use two check valves and a Y to the through. Every so often when pumping out look at the pump not in use to see if water is trickling out, that means a little piece got stuck in it and it should be cleaned many times the next time it cycles it will clear its self. But if not just blowing through it will do the trick! I plan on up sizing the discharge to handle the possible volume of both pumps in an emergency situation. I will solder up a Y with a larger outlet to handle both pumps. You could go overboard and add a crash valve like the big boys!

GEOO
03-18-2004, 08:11 PM
Hey Brad...
I had the same pump under my engine, Lovetts, Great pump, replaced it twice. Worked fine but had two issues. One it was mounted under the engine. The second was it did not get enough water out. It would turn off and leave 1-2" of (salt) water to splash around in the bilge. I now have a small size automatic Rule mounted to the transom tight to the floor. I can get to it if it needs repair or to clean the filter and if I turn it on while getting on plane all the water is in the back of the bilge and the bilge would get pretty dry. (I also have an 2nd pump).

Air 22
03-21-2004, 01:49 PM
Brad....try the Super Hand Scooper 2000 plastic milk container. Just cut off the top and bail away.... :smileybo: :smash: :biggrin.: :biggrin.: