Engine alignment

[Tidbart]

I can't remember any threads on this subject, so here goes.

How often do you align the engine in your boat?
Is it a fairly simple task, with the right alignment tool?
How much would it cost, say, from a Merc shop?
What are the ramifications of not doing it?

Bob :beer:

[Tidbart]

I found the answer to one of my questions on an old thread by Ranman.

Rootsy said "yes i have an alignment tool... i have the blueprint for it if you would like to have one turned out of some 7075. engine alignment should be checked whenever you have the drive off... easy enough to do.. smear a thin coat of grease on the end.. gently slide it through gimble bearing and into coupler.. push but DO NOT rotate until it seats.. it should go easy. pull straight out and look at the mark on the alignment tool. you should have even spline engagement all of the way around.. if not move the motor slightly in the direction where you have no engagement and try again.. (if there are no marks on top then move the front of the motor upward) all of your movement is gonna be at the front motor mounts..."

B

[Ranman]

Rootsy hooked me up with a tool (thanks Root), and I managed to do the alignment no problem. It's not hard, just time consuming. If your motor is aligned, all is well, pu the drive back on, if it's not aligned, you prolly saved your self a tow and a burnt coupler.

[gcarter]

I just bought an alignment tool on eBay. About $35.00. Weighs a ton, Black anodized, beautiful. If not for alignment, can be used for self defense!! :shocking:
Right now there are a half a dozen for sale. It's allways handy to have.

George Carter

[RickSE]

Here's a pdf dwg of the Merc tool. The E'bay deal sounds like a good one. Dealer cost on my Merc. tool was less than $100 but certainly not $35.

[gcarter]

The ebay tool is single ended with one end knurled. I just miked it, it is for an Alpha, which is what I wanted. The seller is probably selling both.

George

[MOP]

George I tried to post what I had told you in the need to know section, it did not take so I called Scot HM he was surprised it did not work and will be looking into it.

For now This is it until Scot can get to fixing it.

I am posting the best way I have learned to set I/O's on its mounts when putting the motor back in. This applies to Merc, OMC and new style Volvos, you should have an alignment tool handy.

The engine should be hung from as long a chain, cable or what ever is feasiblely possible to allow it to align its self side to side with the transom shield.

Always remove aligning tool when moving the engine in anyway.

Leave the forward mounts loose at the bases, make sure the adjusting nuts are nice and free and down lower than where there were originally. Lower the engine down onto the transom shield mounts first, install the bolts do not tighten fully. Now lower the front of the engine slowly making sure it slides easily onto the front mounts move them not the engine to accomplish this. Now lower it to where it looks nice and level, try the aligning tool to see how close it is. When the tool slides in correctly bring up the lower adjusting nuts until they contact then about ½ to 3/4 to allow for the rubber in the mounts, let all of the engine weight settle now. Tighten the forward mount bases and rear mounts and re-check with the tool. You may have just a little more up or down, do the same amount of turns on each nut. Once all is well sock up on the top nuts and yes check it one more time.

The older Volvos are without doubt easier, but it is worth taking the time to measure the distance from each side of the bell housing to the transom though not precise it is still a good step to take.

On any installation any offset side to side is harder on the u joints.

I have gotten a lot of mail on this subject hence the post. Remember clean grease on the alignment tools spline end so you can see just which way to move the engine, the drive alignment should be checked at the beginning of each season. Many times a bad Gimble is suspected when a good alignment will cure the ruble aft. The Gimble when rotated by hand is quite stiff especially when new it should have no sticky spots when turned and -0- play.

I will add a few minor things later.

Phil

[MOP]

Had to add to this as I am helping a member set his up new install, he was having trouble getting the tool to work no matter what he tried. What I forgot in the last post is not to assume a new bearing to be aligned within its own race out of the box, it is necessary many times to insert the tool part way and move the bearing around a bit so it is pointed at the engine, Just a few thousands out at the bearing can be quite a bit more when it gets to the coupler, which will drive you crazy. Also when the tool does enter the spline it pays to hit the tool in all directions with your hand to get it lined up even better. When done the tool should slide into the engine coupler easily leaving an exact all around pattern in the grease on the tool. You do need to get both the engine and bearing lined up properly for smooth operation.

Phil