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Hot foot
03-09-2004, 03:40 PM
What is the correct and or the most practical location for the battery in a '67 Ski Sporter?
Any Pics of engine compartments with battery , wiring and connections would be helpful since I am starting with a bare hull.
Thanks.

mattyboy
03-09-2004, 03:57 PM
On my 67 16 it is next to the port stringer( parallel to the stringer), in a glass box, now I do see quite a lean to port with the added weight of the seat and the trim tab pump on the port side and well with my fat ass in it at non planing speeds it looks like I'm in turn 3 at Daytona ;) but at speed torque steer is minimal and no noticeable lean well that's with a volvo lh setup. In general the 16 could use some weight up front but I wouldn't have a clue as to how or where to put it up front!
Now wiring on mine the main power cables run to the back of the engine the GND cable is about a foot long and goes right to the block and the + cable is about 2 1/2' long and goes to the solenoid mounted on the top back of the motor. all electrical cables run down the starboard side and all contol cables are on the port side.
Now it depends on what type of drive rotation you are running.
give us some more info , post some pics you'll get the answers you are looking for got a hull number?? look up under the dash or up by the bow eye
written in marker

welcome good luck

Matty:)

gcarter
03-09-2004, 04:07 PM
Was there ever any Mercruiser's in these boats? Probably not. Too bad. Useing a Mercruiser simplifies wiring to the ultimate. Even I can wire a boat with a Mercruiser! :) :)

George

Hot foot
03-10-2004, 09:58 AM
Thanks Matty. S/N is 16-401, it was on the back side of the dash which I have replaced. I have rebuilt a Volvo 250 with Holman Moody 302 and will be running L/H rotation , was thinking of putting battery on starboard side to offset L/H driver position.
I will be replacing all wiring and gauges. Should the power for all accessories come off the ignition switch then to a fuse panel?
I tried to attach a few pics of the project so far but no success.

mattyboy
03-10-2004, 10:11 AM
Hotfoot,
sounds good good luck with the project you can always email the pics to me and I can post them for you.

the hull number should be up behind the bow eye as well Cliff found my hull numbers there.
also as a little pet peave of mine, is your deck cored?? or is it all glass with pvc pipe struts for support??? mine has no core just the struts and so does Tony Sporer's boat hull 420 mine is hull 410
just a little research to see when and how many are like that
if i'm right you should have 2 clam shell vents a floor vent donzi scripts on the side and the donzi 3 slot steering wheel with the prop logo in the middle??
and i would bet it was an eaton boat before the 250 was on it, That's what happened to my boat

drop me a line if you have any questions and can fill you in on what little a know ;) :)

as far has the power off the switch no
bilge pump, lights, horn should work without the key being on
the tilt motor, trim tabs, and such should only work when the key is on

I think I have some wiring diagrams from when I replaced my gauges
I'll see if I have them and post them

I got mine wired up an running no problem at all till I went to shut it off?? :embarasse


Matty
wow with out this little trivial stuff winter would be unbearable

Hot foot
03-10-2004, 11:21 AM
Mine had the balsa core under front, side and rear decks and under seat area, plywood under the floor, transom and dash. I have replaced all this with balsa and plywood as appropriate with plywood inserted in the areas where there are attachments i.e clamshells,lifting eye, fuel filler. All other details appear the same as yours' although I don't have original steering wheel and there are plugged holes where the script once was.
I am going to try E Mailing pics to Scot to put in the register.
There was no engine with the boat, just a rusted up, partially disassembled Volvo drive, so I have no idea what was in it.
Steve

MOP
03-10-2004, 05:18 PM
Sounds like you have really done a nice job bring it up to ggod shape! As to your question on electric. All engine related wiring should go off the key switch, accessories should come off a fused circut from the battery to another fuse block under the dash. #10 wire with a 50amp breaker or marine fuse holder at the battery and what ever each item call for on the fuse block. You can add an elecronics filter inline to keep you add ons in good shape. Also a seperate automatic bilge pump circut fused at the battery is not only a good idea is a CG standard. Old boats by todays standards were wired pretty lightly.

MOP

Hot foot
03-11-2004, 08:38 AM
Thanks MOP, that's the kind of info I need. When I got the boat there was a harness with a lot of loose ends and the battery and junction box were gone. Since I will be replacing all wiring I wanted to make sure it met today's standards.

mattyboy
03-11-2004, 09:03 AM
Hotfoot,
these may help courtesy of Jamie Root

a standard mercruiser wiring harness will work


Matty

Hot foot
03-11-2004, 09:59 AM
Matty,
Thanks again, that's a big help. What exactly does the Mercruiser harness consist of? Does it include engine harness with temp/pressure/tach/coil/dist. wires? Approx.how much $$?
Hotfoot

mattyboy
03-11-2004, 07:31 PM
it should consist of the engine harness and the wire tail to wire the dash
a merc guy can probably help ya more there
it has connectors to join the harness to the tail, with leads for the fuse panel as well, probably not expalining it clearly, but once you see it, it will make sense

Matty
black wire cold red wire H :shocking:T