PDA

View Full Version : Birth to a new engine



CDMA
10-29-2000, 12:37 PM
Well here we go….

So it is a nice cold blustery morning here where it feels like it is three degrees from Canada. So this morning myself and my other boat nerd buddy go down to the South shore to test a boat with T/454’s in it. So we show up at this guy’s house and he seems nice enough. Follow him to the boat and we get on this retched piece of crap. Some express cruiser, I think it was a Cruisers but it was horrible. So this guy has decided that he wants diesels. I am really not sure why anyone would put this type of money into this boat but oh well. So it was good for me.

We get on the boat and pop the hatches. Now this 32/33 foot boat has get this 2 454’s to Alphas!!! Literally getting the inside plugs out were a bitch. There are only 3 inches between the inside risers. So the first thing, which catches my eye, is the nice word Magnum across the flame arrestor. So that really made me happy. I was under the impression that Magnums were 350 hp but this said 330 on the valve covers. It may be different being this is a Gen 4 as well as an Alpha combo. I am interested if anyone knew about the Magnums when hooked up to the Alphas. Are they the same as the 350 hp Magnums and if not how? So I go through everything pretty well. Looks really nice. I am primarily interested in the port one. It has a whole bunch of new parts. So I concentrated primarily on that one. The engines we stone cold when I got there which I was happy about. They both started right up and idled nicely. No leaks, oil looked good and so forth. The hour meters both read 604 hrs and looked original. The engine I as interested in had to following…

New Carb
New Intake
SS manifolds
New Cast risers
Redone heads (more on that later)
New thermostat housing
New Crank driven RW pump
All new bellows/ hoses /belts
New pan


So it seems to be well gone through. It all is repainted and it was nice to see the “before” engine next to it with little to no rust.

So we head out (windy as all hell). The engines run smooth, really smooth. So we do a little low speed stuff with each engine. Both sound the same act the same oil pressure the same temp the same. Really nice. We killed one and ran the boat on one wide open. I wanted to see how much each engine alone would push the boat but the problem was one would plane the boat and we were then dragging the other drive. But both pulled alone out of the hole. If anything the port one seemed a little stronger (the one I want). So we get it up on plane and this thing moves!!! Nice slow cruise and smooth temp steady and so forth. Had both hatches off running so I am watching each engine as we go. I thought I may have heard a little valve noise for a second but I am honestly not experienced to know what I am listening for. Well what went away and they were really quite and smooth. Come to think of it that valve noise was on the starboard engine (one I don’t want) when it was still cold. So we are cruising along at about 3200 rpm. Everything comes up to temp and he lays into it. This piece of junk moves!!! You could feel the secondaries open up and the boat surge forward. He held it there for a good 2 minutes. Redlined out a 4600 rpm no temp or oil pressure problems. Really was impressed.

What I liked even more was the guy. He seemed straight up but more importantly he took car of his stuff. I don’t think he was loaded but his house his car and his bilges were clean, cared for and in good shape. He had a genuine care not only to sell me the engine but he liked quality…or so it seemed…someone should tell him about his boat.

We came back into the slip and I checked the oil and went through everything again. The only thing I may have noticed was a possible seep out of the front of the pan. If it was actually a seep it was little. There were just a few drops of oil on the bilge floor I was unaware of where they came from. I really was not too bothered because I do plan on drooping the pan anyway just to look.

Pulled the plugs and did a compression test. All was well. I would have liked to do a leak down test but I was short on time and materials. So as I am doing the compression test I notice something odd. I keep having a hard time getting the socket onto the plugs. I loom over and low and behold they are angle plugs. I was under the impression Mercruiser used straight plugs. What is the deal with angle plugs? Good bad or what? He said the head ports are ovular but they are the large oval port heads. I was not willing to tear apart this guys engine in the boat so I had to take his word for it. I would have bought it anyway.

So then I had him run it again and went around with my little raytech infrared temp gun and shot each water jacket. All 16 were acceptable with a slightly (10 degree) difference between the first and the last cylinders on all banks. My logical guess would be due to the nature of the water flow…correct or no?

So that was it. I was happy. We wrote up a deal, I left him a deposit and the engine is getting pulled next weekend.

So now I have officially given birth to my new project. The old Small block is out of Patience and I am at a loss what to do with it. It is in such good shape. The new BB is complete. Mounts, carb, pan, risers, EVERYTHING. He also threw in a spare brand new Gen 4 Thunderbolt dist, used intake, and another new oil pan despite the new one already on the engine.

The old transom housing and the Volvo are getting stripped and painted with some kind of paint. I used Glasso on my boat and have some left in black for the brackets and so forth. The engine has to be Chevy orange and I want it to be painted and done right so it will not rust. Scott: what do you recommend to paint the engine (orange) and drive (Volvo white). I want something that will stick like no tommorow. A nice gloss finish would be nice as well.

I am unsure about my plan of action regarding the engine. It runs great so it would be a shame to mess with it but I would love more than anything to actually build an engine myself and use it. I really want to learn how and the only way to is to do it. I may leave it together, I may re ring and bearing, I may gut it and build a killer engine. It really is going to come down to $$ and time. I have picked up a few BB performance books and the Marine performance book is coming. The first issue I have to deal with is exhausts. I am going to have to move the hole locations so that means more paint work but I liked painting my boat so I don’t mind. I will eventually convert over to a Gil or Stainless marine exhaust but not how. I think whatever I do now will have to be sufficient with stock exhausts. The only thing I would consider doing would be to put SS long tube risers on the SS manifolds for like 500 or maybe if I can find anything used. This would at least help stop reversion, look cool and be all SS. I understand that I will not get the scavenging affects of an isolated runner exhaust but I mean really 2 grand…. ouch.

Do the aftermarket exhausts require moving the holes from the stock BB location? I sure don’t want to move the holes twice more

So that is about all I can remember now. I will keep you all updated.

Think I can get 450 reliable hp?

Also check parts for sale for SB parts and FYI BB cost $1200 complete

Ralph Savarese
10-29-2000, 02:09 PM
Chris,
Is this engine saltwater cooled and how old? I know that your drive can handle 330 hp but i dont know about 450hp I thought you said the VC said 330.
Ralph

BigGrizzly
10-29-2000, 02:21 PM
Chris what you have here is a 1981 vintage 330hp 454, with oval ports. they did have angled pugs. this engine was comon with trs and alphas in the 1980. they had gobs of torque. The later 420 had rectangular heads, so merc parts arn't the easy way. Forget the scavaging and isolated runners, the stock exhaust are of loge type design small and inadiquit. Inside they are only 2 inches wide at the collector. If you don't put exhaust on them don't wast your time. Rick has his going 72 mph, mark's 2001 goes faster. If speed is what you want it will cost you. if a project is what you want get a shoe horn, you have it.

Exhaust holes don't have to be modified the pipes can be to fit the holes.

I have this engine in my Criterion, it is a nice unit. If you think a few hot rod books will solve all your problems ,your wrong! Example: you have a crank driven water pump, it has a 3/4inlet and outlet., and flowes 30gpm. I have a pulley type 1 inch id and flowes 44 gpm. Crank drive is fine for a small block and low hp big block, not for a high hp big block. You won't find that in your hop up guide to winning. I'm not trying to beat you up, just get your priorities straight. Get it in the dam boat, learn how to drive it, then put in the ponies.

Call Rick up ask him how to do it. I met him at Orlando, and he is nicer in real life then even on the net. I know he will steer you straight. Any way good luck I hope you have it done by spring.

One more thing make sure your fuel pickup and lines are big enough. the stock ones in my Corsican were too small to fuel the hopped up motor. Your need 3/8ths.

[This message has been edited by BigGrizzly (edited 10-29-2000).]

GEOO
10-29-2000, 03:00 PM
Chris, Good thing about Big Griz. is he doesn't beat around the bush. WOW.

Congrats on your new purchase. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/smile.gif

Hey, Randy How's your project coming along???

I'm hope to be running in a month. GEOO

CDMA
10-29-2000, 03:03 PM
I do have my priorities straight... I want speed and a project. This is a learning experience for me and that is what I am doing, learning. A 2000 dollar exhaust is just not in the cards. While I understand you and Rayay that the engine is just a big air pump and that it will only flow as much air as the smallest opening. However I could be wrong about this but is not air compressable. I understand that it causes more back pressure in turn casueing a loss of power but it is feasible to get more power with stock exhaust and in turn more speed. For example look at Paulo's boat. 18/ alpha. 425 hp and stock exhaust. As far as I know he paid less than $ 3000 for the engine and now runs close if not at 70 mph. How can you justify $2000 exhaust system on a $3000 doallar engine. For what 3 mph...You can justify it if you make money and have a seriuos job...not me. I understand on a wild engine but for a relatively mild engine that stock exhaust will undoubtedly cause a loss in power yet it still must be able to gain more. I understand that you all out there know so much more in so many respects than I do. I see Rick R, Big G, Geoo and some of the most knowledgeable guys out there putting on these tremendous exhaust systems. Trust me if I had the money I would be on the phone to Stainless marine right now. But I don't. I make around 10K a year and that is a lot for a college student however it by no means compares to some of the triple digit salaries some of you must make. Listen, I know what the right way to do it is, I also know what I can and can not afford. I am damn proud of what I have been able to do as an 18 year old. I restored a boat from the ground up a with all my own hard earned money and time. Those who have seen it will tell you how it came out. I come from a family that has boats and uses them a lot. We live aboard in the summer and do a lot of our own work. However before Patience I never sparyed anything other than krylon,
I had no tools, no idea on so many aspects of boat resortation it is scary. I learned through this site, friends and books...the only way I knew how. Did I make mistakes, you bet ya. Have I yet to see a Donzi in better condition than mine...nope. That says a lot. My friends go to the movies and mall I built a boat...is it perfect...no. Will it be. I hope so but it will take time.

I am not sure aboutt the '81 thing. I think that may be a function of the heads being replaced. The engines are ' 89 and original to the 89 boat. I can not see how they are '81 engines.


Chris

GEOO
10-29-2000, 03:13 PM
http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif

Hey, Chris, You've done an amazing job on your boat!!!
I have a Large Shoe Horn. Give me a call I'll help fit it in. GEOO

BigGrizzly
10-29-2000, 03:23 PM
Don't misunderstand me 1981 vintage goes up through the 90's. there are 4 different oval port heads that I know of. The reason I said what I said about the priorities is first the engine was great then you wanted Geoo's boat when he sells it(don't do it Geoo)then you wanted to hop it up, and now you have a 454 etc. I know you don't make much money. When I was your age I too lived on a boat in Point Pleasant N.J. I was a life gard girls were in abundance but money was not, so I worked as a mechanic in the evenings. My father was a doctor who though we needed to learnhow to make a living with our hands like grand paw (he was a tool and die maker). Today I'm glad he did, I can make almost anything without relying on someone else. I didn't mean to be so harsh , just trying to keep your head on straight and save you some pain and dollars.

I really wanted to help you beat Paul with his own motor, now I'm worried you will beat me.

Geoo project is done except for the heat exchanger and installation.

[This message has been edited by BigGrizzly (edited 10-29-2000).]

CDMA
10-29-2000, 03:53 PM
George

Not sure of the shoe horn but I could use a hand getting Paul's 350 under the front deck as a bow thruster.

I did bounce around with many ideas but I am where I am because of the advice of many of you. I was going to hop up my SB then I found another SB that I was going to use to build up my long block and keep the old one ready in case of failure. When that one seemed more effort than it really was worth I reevaluated. Luckily the guy who sold me the SB stood by it and sent my money back because it was not as described. That really was lucky. So having my money back and some more knowledge I searched again. The more people I talked to the more I read ( no matter how bad the " hot rod" books are) the more it seemed more c.i. was the way to go. So about the same time this BB came along.

Don't get me wrong Georges boat is still hands downt he more exciting thing I have ever rid in and despite how it looks I do have a plan. Ulimately I do want an Arneson in my boat wether this year or in 10 years. However my Arneson will be behind a BB helping in yeilding more power as well as a CG further aft. The way I looked at it was in the end no matter what I did to a SB I would always at some point go to a BB so I did it sooner than later.

Chris

Edward Donnelly
10-29-2000, 04:01 PM
CDMA The extra horsepower isn't going anywhere, if and when you can afford the hi po exhausts, the extra horsepower will be untapped. In the meantime you will be able to get a handle on the extra power you will be getting. Learn to handle the ponies in gradual steps. It is safer and just as much fun Ed

BigGrizzly
10-29-2000, 04:14 PM
Ed sorry I havn't goten back to you but been working on a project. By the way I am really jealous of your stuff. If you are ever in Atlanta look me up, you too Chris.

CDMA
10-29-2000, 05:03 PM
It is sort of snowing here ( on and off) so I have nothing better to do seeing that I know my intergration math better than my name...at least till I take the test.

One thought Big Griz I have center riser manifolds not log style like you referred to. Is that better, worse, or the same.

Please forgive all my thoughts I am going back and forth with many ideas. I appreciate all your guys help.

Big G: What is this project I keep hearing about you working on.

Chris

RickR
10-29-2000, 08:07 PM
Chris
Congratulations on the new engine!
Sounds like a great deal.
Your engine is a Mark IV (The Generation series did not come out till the V)

I have to agree the exhaust will be your limiting factor because of reversion.
Stock Oval Port Marine Cam
213Intake/217 Exhaust .460/.480 Lift
Stock Retangular Port Marine Cam
224/224 .510/.510

The cast iron manifolds are used on the late model 454 Mags w/carb and are rated @ 385 Crankshaft hp.

Contact Crane and see what Cam they reccomend for your application. They also have a websight.

I am not familiar with the 87 454 you have but my personal opinion is not to exceed 4600RPM with cast pistons, crank and small rods (if that is what your engine has)

In the future you should be able to match the transom holes with a aftermarket exhaust. With a BB you'll at least need Power Steering which may interfere with the exhaust.

Have you checked with HLSM.Com to see if your 350 Bellhousing and coupler will work?
Does it have QJet?
What kind of Intake manifold?
Make sure all parts you add are compatable. A bigger cam is not always the way to go.

When you redo your fuel tank run the MARINE SPEC 3/8 fuel line Big G mentioned.

The oil leak on the front of the engine could be caused by a valve cover gasket.


------------------
RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>



[This message has been edited by RickR (edited 10-29-2000).]

CDMA
10-29-2000, 08:32 PM
Rick,

Thanks for the kind words. Oven the winter I will be in conatct with you to pick your brain about a few things. I am considering anything froma direct drop in to a complete rebuild. It is something I need to inverstigate. I am very curious to open it up and see if it has a cast or forged lower end. According to you the magnums have forged and this definetly say magnum. I am unsure though about the differece betweent he 330 hp magnum and the 350 hp magnum that you have. I know the heads but what I am hoping and wondering is that the lower end is similar to your magnum and the 20 hp loss comes from the oval port heads. I have a mercruiser manual on the way as well as the Big Block performance book. I have the small block one and it has been a tremendous help so I am hoping to get the same thing out of the BB one.

I already have marine grade 3/8' hose with aeroquip fittings on each end of the fuel line...now only if I could get fuel out of the tank....

I now also have to think about a bigger tank.

Chris

Scott Pearson
10-29-2000, 08:37 PM
Chris,
The engine can be painted with DCC Concept. Also the drive with the same thing.

PREP and more Prep...the best thing with the engine is to get it as clean as possible and get most if not all of the old paint off. Then DP LF Epoxy and right to DCC Concept.

As far as the drive. If you want a premo job you'll have to strip all the old paint off and sand real good with 220 grit paper. Unless you are going to glass bead. Thats what I did with my drive...Any hooo once the paint is stripped and the alum. is sanded real good. Then 1 coat of washprime DX1791 and DX1792. 2 coats of DP48LF. And then 2-3 coats of DCC Concept.

This thing will last forever. When you get closer to the project let me know and I will go over everything with you. Getting the colors are no problem! Good Luck!

(NJ)Scott

BigGrizzly
10-29-2000, 10:37 PM
The pickup tube inside the tank under the fitting welded inside the tank is uour main problem. Eailer you said it was weldes in the tank , make sure it is at least 3/8. Center rise manifolds are just logs with main exhaust in the middle. some of the latter ones have longer primary tubes (pipes coming directly out of exhaust port) arr better. My Criterion has hedders already, so I don't have this added expense. Look on the net, Oval port and rectangular will use the same exhaust hedders. Now you have a big block, you have a multitude of choices. Used stuff is always around.
syphon the fuel our of the tank or get a cheap electric fuel pump from Pep Boys. Then drill out the bung pickup and make a new one and screw it in. Oh yea yse a well oiled air drill. use a large filter to pick up chips left in the tank.

The best intake for your application at this time is the proformer 2.0 from Edelbrock, or the Sealth from Weiland.

Fuel consumption on my 454 in the Criterion is the same , maybe better than my cleveland in the Corsican. Oh but the Corsican is faster and sounds better!

[This message has been edited by BigGrizzly (edited 10-29-2000).]

rayjay
10-30-2000, 10:20 AM
CDMA,

An engine is just a big.... Seriously, good start and most important, have fun. BigG (got it right this time!!) and I have dealt with people building high performance engines for quite a long time. I did almost all of my racing in the late 60's to early 70's, but still have an interest (both fun and financial) in the high performance area. We are both people who are concerned about getting the most bang for the buck /effort/ work (pick a word), 'cause that in the long run will get you the happiest and most satisfied customer.

I like the big oval port heads. John Lingenfelter says starting with rectangular port heads isn't necessary until you want more than 675hp or spin it more than 7 thou. Oval port heads really respond to bowl, chamber, and valve backside work, and remember you will need an Oval Port intake manifold. The manifold may have to be matched to the head as there have been a number of oval port intake sizes from early big ones to the tiny "peanut" ports on current truck engines. DO NOT get into really opening up the manifold side of the intake port as that will only hurt your overall flow unless you do a lot of work to the head which will cost you more than just going out and buying Merlin FE Oval or Rectangular heads. I just wouldn't do a lot to this engine until you can afford better exhausts. Otherwise a) if you get something that works with the log type exhaust, you may throwing your money away on something you will want to change later, or b) if you put in something you will not have to change later, it will run like crap now.

Get the motor into the boat, that's going to be a big enough project. Pull the intake manifold and heads just to check out what is inside the motor, and call me. I will help you with the heads and intake manifold, and we can see if we can make the exhaust manifolds work a little better. But most of all, enjoy the project as well as the finished product. Then maybe you can figure out how to add a step(s) and (maybe) a pad to a 22 footer. I was involved with a 107 mph ski boat, so I want to get back up over 90 at least. I can build the power, just need a hull stable enough to do it and enjoy it. rayjay

[This message has been edited by rayjay (edited 10-30-2000).]

RickR
10-30-2000, 07:25 PM
I am not familiar with the 87 Mags but here is a pic of the Retangular port heads on my Mark IV
HI-PERF is cast above the #5 exhaust rocker.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261326&a=9670185&p=31955379&Sequence=o&res=high
I have a BB parts interchange guide if you need me to look up any parts.


------------------
RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>



[This message has been edited by RickR (edited 10-30-2000).]

CDMA
10-30-2000, 07:59 PM
Rick,

I bought the interchange manual but it is really the mercruiser specific stuff I need to find out. Hopefully I will find something.

Chris

CDMA
10-31-2000, 01:42 PM
Scot,

Did you blast your drive all assembled? If you did what did you do to keep the beeds out of the u joint?

Chris

PaulO
10-31-2000, 03:27 PM
Well, well , well big 'Ol Grizzled One!!
So you wanted to help Chris beat me with my own motor huh? Well I guess it is not to be!! It seems that I need something fast enough to challenge your machine(s) huh? What is the competition? I need to know what I have to do over the winter!!!
PaulO

GEOO
10-31-2000, 04:13 PM
PaulO, What's going on with your engine? GEOO

BigGrizzly
10-31-2000, 06:09 PM
well first you need to get rid of those stock exhaust manifolds. If you keep them and your old engine anything short of a big shot of NOX won't do it. I did not issue a challenge but if that is what you think OK. You could buy the DONZI 38 Daytona ZX they had at the FT. Lauderdale boat show, that will do it.

PaulO
10-31-2000, 06:26 PM
Geoo,
It took forever but, the motor is finally back together. Because of other responsibilities, I couldn't disassemble the motor for about a week and a half after the gasket blew. It sucked major salt water in which then traveled to several other cylinders. By the time I got both heads off, I had 2 stuck valves ( Stainless no less) and 2 bent pushrods from rotating the engine that way. I took the heads to a very good local builder who informed me that the WorldProducts heads always need to be surfaced and the valve guides re-sized prior to installation and that mine had not been. So, I had them surfaced and the guides re-sized/replaced as needed. Over $500.00 in head work and gaskets on new heads. This guy also claims that he builds dozens of stroker motors a year and that he never re-torques and has never had a head gasket failure. I purchased the Detroit composite gaskets that he uses from him along with new GM Hi-Po head bolts.
At that point, I still was not sure what kind of condition the rest of the motor was in after ingesting all that salt water at 4000RPMs. The cylinders looked okay and I re-installed the heads.
Started it up Sunday and it sounds good. Good oil pressure and no noises. I then changed the milk.
I will not be certain that the engine is 100 % until I get it in for a ride. Hopefully this coming weekend if the weather is not too foul.
Where are you on yours George?
PaulO

PaulO
10-31-2000, 06:40 PM
Okay Grizz, I am going to buy that Daytona if that's what it takes to beat you!!! Just kidding. Actually, I thought it was a very good and benevolent intention to help Chris with his small block and I would be fine with his boat being faster than mine. I think it was funny that my boat turned out to be the boat selected to be beaten! I would not dare challenge anyone to a serious race since 1. My boat is not that fast. 2. My boat will never be that fast. 3. If top speed was all I was worried about, I would own a different boat.
I certainly hope you are taking this in the same good natured intention that I am writing this in!!!!! Oh, and by the way, I am out to prove that those damn ugly cast iron weights that I carry around strapped to my heads are well,,, damn ugly cast iron weights!!!!
PaulO

Ralph Savarese
10-31-2000, 07:33 PM
Chris,
I bead blasted my drive .I wrapped the u joints in heavy plastic wrap and taped it up tightly just don't blast directly into the shaft seals and you should be fine.
Ralph

BigGrizzly
10-31-2000, 08:07 PM
PaulO do the oil change thing with filter at least three times,with the engine run for at least 5 min at a time then change oil. Corosion never sleeps. yse 10w30 for this, because its thinner.