Technical helpfrom the donziboard gurus

[Gearhead]

HI,
It's been a couple of months and i'm still plugging away at my donzi resto. I have come to a stumbling block though, I need to replace the bearing in the intermediate housing(don't know what to call it, see pic below) it looks to me like it takes a sealed bearing on both ends to support the shaft. When i took it apart the outdrive end bearing was wiped and there was no bearing or snap ring at all in the front. It looks like there should be one but i'm not sure. Do you think I should take the shaft and housing to the bearing shop and get one for each end? also is this piece from holman-moody or volvo or donzi ? it has no markings.

Thanks in advance, Tim Dale
p.s I thought i would add a pic of the engine i built for it.
http://4dales.com/db5/00468/4dales.com/_uimages/engine.jpg
http://4dales.com/db5/00468/4dales.com/_uimages/bellhousing.jpg

[BERTRAM BOY]

I'm just curious,I see that you are using rocker girdles, and therefore need to use tall valve covers. Is there going to be enough clearance between the valve cover and your exhaust manifold?
BERTRAM BOY

[GEOO]

Tim, Radical looking engine!! Tell us more. ci. cam, ect.. Is it going in a 18 or 22. I'm not sure on the coupler question. GEOO

[Gearhead]

Bertram, When I was given the boat it had the talls on it with kodiak headers. The headers were stolen before i recieved it but i figured i would just replace them with the same as i know they fit.
Geoo, The engine is a four bolt 60 over 350 with a steel crank and forged pop up pistons.
The crank,rods and pistons are weight matched and balanced. I don't know the actual cam specs as it was in the motor when i got the boat but my calipers showed it to be around .557 lift,it'a a roller along with the rockers. I had to bore the block from from .30 to .60 because when someone stole the headers water ran into to cylinders pitting them. they also took the carb, heat exchanger and distributor. I replaced the carb with a 750 holley marine mech secondaries and the distributor with an msd billet. It's going back into a 1971 18 2+3 left hand drive. The original pics are in a sept post i did if your interested
Thanks, Tim Dale

[GEOO]

Tim, Should be a nice ride. Good luck. GEOO

[Ralph Savarese]

You can cross those bearings and seals to automotive. a lot cheaper than buying them from volvo when i get to work on monday ill see if i still have the #s

[AVickers]

I replaced these in my 280 and, looking at the way they're in there, I came to the conclusion that they needed to be fully sealed bearings or they need to be in an oil bath. In a bath, they should be sealed on one side only and installed with some kind of sealer between the bearing and housing -- I've found RTV Gold to be the ticket for these kinds of things.

The bearings are commonly available from almost any bearning house in a variety of configurations -- fully open, shielded, or sealed on one- or two sides.

Anyway, I ended up installing fully sealed bearings in mine. "S2S" is the designation at the bearing house for "sealed on two sides." I told the guy that they would be turning a maximum of 5000 Rs for sustained periods and he indicated that the sealed bearings would work under those circumstances and give long hours of service.

The bath scenario would allow you to oil the bearings by shooting a bit of oil into the hole on the top side of the housing so that the bottom of the race was submerged. The balls, moving through the low section, would carry oil to the upper section of the outer race and to the inner race. My thinking here is that without the RTV between the bearing and housing (and perhaps on the shaft as well), you'd get a puddle of oil in the bilge from it weeping through. It would, however, allow you to be perfectly sure that the thing was getting oiled...

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by avickers (edited 10-22-2000).]

[GeneD]

This is one awesome looking engine.
The stud girdles really took me back!
And that manifold, wow!
What kind of ignition is this thing running? I don't recognize the distributer.
Make sure that motor is bolted down tight, one nail on the throttle and it just might want to bust out of the engine compartment and take off down the channel by itself!

------------------
GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

[Gearhead]

Gene,
Thanks for the interest. The distributor is a billet aluminum msd model with a magnetic pickup. It may look strange to you because I put the big ford cap-adapt setup on it. I think the larger spacing of the posts helps prevent crossfire plus i've always felt that the "hei" type posts made better contact than the standard plugs. I'm told that the boat was bad fast (around 74 mph) but that was with another prop. The prop that came with it is new and untested. It looks fast (it's bronze and real sharp with pointed edges).
Now I need to find a good source for a front mount heat exchanger. I need the whole kit if anyone knows where i could get it that way. They also stole the pump for it.
Thanks,Tim

[CDMA]

74 with a volvo... please tell me it is a speedmaster or I will through a wrench through my 58 mph slug

Chris

[PaulO]

Chris,
There is an interesting thread on Offshoreonly.com where people state the speeds of their boats. It looks like people are fairly honest because the speeds are generally not that fast. Take a look. BTW, Tim (gearhead) states that he was TOLD it RAN ABOUT 74 mph. Don't sink the boat yet.
PaulO

[CDMA]

It will be interesting to see what the 18 does with a 280 volvo and a BB. We will soon find out. I go to see a couple Sat...

Chris

[Ralph Savarese]

Be carefull with sealed bearings . how do you lube them ?the automotive bearings are BCA will cross to the exact same as what is in there and the seals will cross to nationals. Sorry i cant find the #s but i have done this same job 3 times on 3 different boats it works!