PDA

View Full Version : Won't start?



Kikwear
07-07-2001, 10:01 PM
I have a 1997 16' Classic with a 350 and Alpha one drive. After running for awhile, when I take a break and go back to start it, nothing happens. No solenoid click, nothing. Just the warning chime when the key is in the on position without the engine running. I don't know if the engine has to cool down or not, but it's annoying. Anything I'm missing here? Thanks.

Formula Jr
07-08-2001, 01:17 AM
It probably thinks it is in gear. Make sure you got a free spinning prop then try it.

Kikwear
07-08-2001, 11:46 AM
It's in neutral all right. I did it with the boat on the trailer and the prop was free.

Donzitester
07-08-2001, 12:19 PM
That does'nt meen its not the neutral safty
switch. Hold the key in the start position
and move your shifter a little forward and
backward. If that is not it then watch
your volt meter when you try to start it
and see if it is droping when you turn the key to the start position.

roadtrip2
07-08-2001, 01:08 PM
Sold my 96 16 Classic to Scott Dabbs last year. He had a similar problem, but it was something really simple to fix. Dirty battery posts. Cleaned 'em up, put the cables back on, sprayed a little white grease, and presto no more starting trouble. I know, kinda stupid, but sometimes the dumb things are what we miss while we're scratching our skulls.
Good luck, Todd

"Headed back to Cumberland for a week on Monday..."

jkeefe
07-08-2001, 05:21 PM
I HAVE A 96 4.3L 16' AND IT WOULD JUST STOP WITH NO FUNCTIONS. THERE IS A LARGE WIRE
HARNESS CONNECTION ON THE LEFT REAR SIDE ON TOP OF THE ENGINE (YOU FACING TOWARD THE REAR OF
ENGINE)THAT WAS LOOSE AND WAS VERY INTERMITTANT. I PULLED IT APART CLEANED AND
SECURED, NO MORE PROBLEM. JACK

Jamesbon
07-09-2001, 01:17 PM
Had the same problem for years, replaced everything with no luck, finally had the old crusty marine starter re-built, NO MORE PROBLEM. That's one of those tricky, hard to diagnose things. If all else fails, pull the starter, open it up and inspect it's guts.

Nate

jdsdonzi
07-09-2001, 03:20 PM
There is also a seperate solonoid in addition to the one on the starter. I found it after I replaced the neutral safety switch and had the starter rebuild and I still had the same problem good news is its only a $25 part.

Kikwear
07-09-2001, 10:47 PM
Well, I got stuck at Blarney Island for two hours yesterday because the damn thing wouldn't start. Well, after awhile, my girlfriend got it by trying it non-stop. I've tried moving the shift lever, bypassing the neutral switch, waited till it cooled. I don't know. There is no activity whatsoever when it happens. Just the chime when I let the key go back into the run position. I'm thinking of getting it checked because it's no fun wondering whether it's going to start or not. It's grounded until then.

Looped
07-10-2001, 07:20 AM
Kikwear,
Grab a Multi-Meter (voltage tester) the next time this happens and try to track down where you loose the juice. Start in sequence from the battery on and you should find out where the connection is lost.

Craig

Jamesbon
07-10-2001, 08:14 AM
Just to cover my a*s, I'm not recommending this, but it works when you're in a jam.

If she won't start, check the bilge for gas fumes, if none are present, you can take a screwdriver or something metal and jump the solenoid's hot post to the starter. As long as your ignitions on, it should work like a charm. I did this for years until I finally figured out the problem.

I think the multimeter idea's a good one too.

Nate

Forrest
07-10-2001, 09:35 AM
Ahhh yes, Nate. There is no question that you've been living in Florida for a while now!

------------------
Forrest

jaroot
07-10-2001, 11:08 AM
better than a screwdriver but more expensive is a snap-on or mac remote starter button. hook it across the solenoid that is behind teh carb and turn the key on.. hit the button and go.. unless that solenoid or the starter is bad.. then that'll do no good... when you turn the key to start the engine does the solenoid click???? If it doesn't you need to look before it.. like the main wiring harness plug... or possibly the key switch itself... or a bad solenoid...

Kikwear
07-10-2001, 12:37 PM
There is no click. No noise whatsoever. I switched out the switch. Same thing. Maybe it's in between the switch and solenoid. Time to do some wire tracing. Thanks guys. I'll let you know.

------------------
1997 Classic 16 5.7 Alpha One
White with red stripe

RickR
07-10-2001, 02:35 PM
Could be the kill switch (lanyard)
Remove the loop thet goes under the toggle.
Then flip the toggle back and forth a few times.

That is a good place to start with the Volt meter too.

------------------
RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

Kikwear
07-10-2001, 03:00 PM
Tried that too.

------------------
1997 Classic 16 5.7 Alpha One
White with red stripe

Kikwear
07-16-2001, 06:38 AM
Well, I finally got it. Turned out it was a loose engine harness. You know, behind the carb, closer to the steering, there is a 8 or 9 pin cicular connector. Well, it was loose, so I pushed it in hard, tightened the clamp and it fired right up. Tested it by running and coming back, turning off and on again. No problem. Thanks again guys.

------------------
1997 Classic 16 5.7 Alpha One
White with red stripe

Captain's Call coming very soon...

Formula Jr
07-16-2001, 07:15 AM
You're not done yet. Clean up all the terminals and expand the male posts - ever so carefully with a knive or flat blade. Then cover the join seam with Dielectric grease and
then clamp it together..............

Kikwear
07-16-2001, 08:43 AM
I’ll try that. Got some dielectric around here somewhere… Speaking of terminals, you should’ve seen the battery ones. Talk about sulfur buildup. It was just caked on there. Don’t know how juice got through the positive one there was so much.

------------------
1997 Classic 16 5.7 Alpha One
White with red stripe

Captain's Call coming very soon...