Rub Rail

[Zinger]

Does any one have information on replacing my rub rail , the boat is a 86 18ft. classic. Where can i purchase new parts and how are the corner bent with-out ruining the new piece . I can be reached at 203 877-7560 thanks for any info. Jeff

[MOP]

You may find the railing in a decent catalogue on contact Donzi. I am not sure how they bend rails at the factory but what has worked well for me was to find a pipe with the proper inside radius, clamp it firmly in a vise. You will need two 2 foot pieces of PVC tubing that just slide over the railing, fairly snug fit is what you want. Lay wide masking tape on the railing mark your radius centers carefully. Slide the pipes over the railing, center your marked lines with the back side of the pipe in the vise. As you start to pull your bends keep the PVC pipes close but not touching the bend pipe and make your bend. Take your time and you will make nice clean tight bends.

[BigGrizzly]

All are still availabte, If you have the ALuminum onr it is from Talco and available at boatUS. easly installed. Done it several tines on boats.

Randy owner of Donzis since 1966

[Jamesbon]

I believe most of us here use Taco Metals. Do a search on "Taco" here in Donzi Performance Talk. Hope that helps!

Better yet, here's their website. (http://www.tacometals.com)

Taco has a facility here in St. Pete. I'd be glad to go look at something there for you, as I have to cross this bridge soon myself. Just let me know.

[David Ochs]

Jeff,
The original aluminum "Taco" rubrail is available through West Marine. Other supply houses as well, but this is one we all know of. The longest lengths are 12'. My 16' used (3) twelves and (1) six. Give a little thought on layout for uniformity. As for bending it, I used a block of wood and the help of a second person. Just gently tap and massage the rail around the corners as you fasten it on the boat. I think the key is slow and patient. NO HEAT. Mine turned out perfect and it was my one and only attempt. You can look at after pictures on the registry #562. Would be glad to talk to you about it if you like.

[olredalert]

Jeff,

------The one thing you cant do with the Taco rail is use the same screw holes as your old rail.The center to center hole difference is inconsistent.A few will fall in place,but you will have to drill for the rest.Be sure to caulk the old holes,as well as tighten the deck fastening screws,whuch are under the rail................ol red!

[Rodger]

When you do the rubrail job, you may want to consider replacing all the screws with machine screws and nyloc nuts. I did this about 12 years ago and not one has loosened since then.

[David Ochs]

Both are excellent considerations. I also used machine screws with nylocs for fastening the shoebox joint and the rubrail, and they've remained nice and tight.

[SHARKEYMARINE]

I have a few rub rail Links on my site listed under "Parts & Accessories" @ WWW.SHARKEYMARINE.COM (http://WWW.SHARKEYMARINE.COM)

I hope this helps you out... wink

[oldLenny]

Aaaahh. There I found it. This info is courtesy of Scott Pearson. It is THE one you want one your boat.

"The Rub Rail you need for your 16 is not 1 inch. It measures 1 inch but dont be fooled. The rub rail you need is 3/4. The # is TAC A110151. Also it does not get notched out at the bow or the transom. This stuff bends pretty easy. It will bend right around the bow. Find the center first and then hold it at the center of the bow. Then bring it around to the side of the boat. DONT bend the rail yet. Screw the rail to the side of the boat and work your way foward to the bow. Once you have one side screwed in then you can bent the rail around the bow and work your way down the other side. Do the same for the back and then you can fill in the centers on each side.

Also do yourself a favor and fill the old holes with resin or West System. Your new Rubrail holes will not exactly line up with the old ones. And even though there suposta be every 6 inches it turns out that some of them are not. You will thank me later on this one."