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Ralph Savarese
10-10-2000, 06:07 PM
Pulled the motor today i am now going to completly disassemble the boat to remove the top and replace core wood. Any suggestions from anyone would be helpfull. Hey first time in 34 years this thing is comming apart almost brought a tear to my eye! . Chris hope to talk to you soon about the chrome.

Rob
10-10-2000, 06:47 PM
Be sure to check the fuel tank, valve and lines if you plan to take the top off. It's pretty easy to repaint the bilge and replace/rebuild the bilge pump and switch while everything is apart. I also wrapped my wiring harness and put it in a loom for protection.

Jamesbon
10-10-2000, 07:34 PM
Ralph,
You're a lucky man! I'll follow your footsteps in the next year to come with my 29 year old, weathered beast. I'm so distraught without her, that I gotta finish the engine install so I can run her for a while before she goes away for a makeover.

I'll follow your posts and provide input anywhere I can.

For starters, if you haven't already, check the tech section for Gene's "top off" resto, and GEOO's transon rebuild. Also, you might do a "search" for any threads regarding deck removal.

Good Luck!!
Nathan

AGUESS
10-10-2000, 07:49 PM
Good luck with the restoration.

When you go to seperate the deck from the hull, first crawl into the front with a flash light and look down the sides.

My 1966 Classic 18 had the deck joined to the hull in several places.

First, the ski rack was glassed into the front of the hull.

2.The deck sat in some type of bedding compound that was like glass. This was located on each side where the bottom of the front of the deck sits on the hull. I had to break this stuff out with a chisel.

3. There was also glass wraped from the deck to the hull at this point that had to be cut.

4. Remove your bait/drink well and look inside to see if there is also glass mounted from the deck to the stringers.

5. Crawl into the engine compartment and look forward to see if any other places have glass from the deck to the hull.

When all items are free and you have removed all of the screws, the deck will pop up. Then either make a lift using 2 x 6, or get about 8 men to lift the deck off.

If you use the 2 x 6 and comealongs, place the wood under the deck right in front of where your guages go and in the back where the engine compartment meets the rear seat. Be sure to build up the 2x6 so that the deck is resting on wood all the way along the board and not just at he corners, or you will risk cracking the deck.

Good luck, if you have any other questions, do a post.

Alex.

Ralph Savarese
10-10-2000, 08:55 PM
Thanks guys I had spoken to GeneD last year about his little squares of plywood and he had recomended balteck honeycomb balsa as a replacment.Hope to have it finnished by spring if all goes right!
The gas tank I had custom made out of aluminum about 5 years ago while I have the top off I have to make a permenent repair to the floor where I cut the ski rack out then. I hope we don't have a rough winter that will give me more time to work on it . as far as the engine I am making it a class prodject at school where I teach the kids love it! Ill be cleaning it up new cam and Higher compresson . no stroker for me i cant see the cost and the little bit of speed gain for all that money and still have problems it seemes that the guys that did that are constantly pulling thair hare out!I am hopeing to follow the specs for a 350/ 350hp
Ralph

CDMA
10-10-2000, 09:00 PM
Ralph,

Keep me updated with the specs for the new motor.

Chris