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Jamesbon
09-20-2000, 10:45 PM
Fellas,
The 383 is in need of new fuel line before I drop her back in the 21 GT. Can I use copper tubing and associated fittings from the fuel pump to the carb.? Or is there some reason I should use brass? Please advise.

Thanks...Nathan
nschlaeppi@templeton.com
Registry # GTX2100021

GeneD
09-20-2000, 11:45 PM
Nate baby,
As you may know, Mercruiser is using steel for their fuel lines, and brass fittings.
Copper tubing would be a fine alternative, properly flared (double).
Brass tubing would be impossible to find I would think.
Describe your set up, perhaps a normal type Merc line would do the trick.
I also saw an interesting thing the other day at Auto Zone. A pre-fabbed SST braided line specifically for carb to fuel pump, or visa versa! Not too expensive either.

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

Jamesbon
09-21-2000, 07:34 AM
Thanks Fellas! I'll check out the braided SST line today, when I pick up my starter solenoid. Do you know if it uses hose clamps, flare fittings, or "AN" fittings?

My current set up uses a standard mechanical marine fuel pump attached to the block. I have a tall Victor Junior Vortec intake with 2" carb spacer and depending on how I feel, a Quadrajet and square bore adapter plate, or 600 Holley, or 750 Holley. I intend on breaking it in with the Quadrajet, as it ran well on the last 355 that ended up with a smoked piston and bore.

I'm getting real anxious, as I've been slacking hard on this last engine. Last night I installed my own "in house fabricated" 1" billet aluminum alternator bracket, and all fresh water cooling hoses. Just a few minor details left.

Fred Clarke
09-21-2000, 08:59 AM
In have a classic 18 (88')into which I recently dropped a 383 and a B1 drive with a 23" mirage prop. I installed an 8 AN braided SS line from the gas tank to a Holley Marine fuel pump. The engine shop (Mike, Tony and Wayne at Active Engines in Toronto) said I had to have a min 3/8" ID line to suppy the beast. They also warned that the anti-siphon valve on the tank MUST be removed. It causes a supply side restriction that can lean the fuel flow at higher rpms. All the connections are AN style to reduce friction losses.

fred

GeneD
09-21-2000, 09:11 AM
Oh, I see!
Everyone else keeps their motor blowups secret! I was feeling like I was the only one that beat the living hell out of an engine.
JB,
Sounds to me like you got your act together. Why haven't we been boating side by side yet?
Or was that you I met at the race in Sarasota last year?
Yeah, that SST hose thing is AN fittings. Or at least it appeared to be so from the outside of the package!


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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

Craig
09-21-2000, 11:24 AM
Nathan,
Sounds like you've already opted to "not" go with copper, but if you (or anyone) does use copper, don't forget to get yer handy dandy pipe benders (springs). I'd see those things in people's tool boxes for years and never knew what they were until I replaced my boat's fuel line! Can't bend pipe without 'em!
Dumb as a hog!
Craig

Jamesbon
09-21-2000, 01:15 PM
Well, at lunch I picked up a double flaring tool, tubing bender, and solenoid. SAWEET!!!!! I would have preferred the SST/AN fitting route, however, it wasn't available at the joint I was at, and the double flairing tool was stairing me in the face, not to mention copper tube and flare fittings are CHEAP. (plus I'm an impulsive buyer - on a budget that's ALWAYS TOO SMALL!!)

Gene,
We met very briefly at the Orlando Owners event. We haven't "boated" yet due to my rig being w/o an engine for the last 7 months. If you recall, I had the red, 1971 21 GT, w/o motor, nasty looking red chalky bottom boat on a trailer towards the back of the pack at the Orlando gig. (It sits up fairly high on the trailer) Check out registry # GTX2100021 on the "registered boats" page.

Yeah, I never figured out what caused my 355 to give up the ghost. All I found was one scarred bore and slightly mangled piston in the same bore. It looks like something very small fell in there, or maybe detonation caused it. Anyway, that's what prompted the creation of my new 383.

Once my unit's back in the water, I'd like to host a West coast Florida Donzi get together. We could convene at my place on the intercoastal in Redington Shores. (St. Petersburg)

GeneD
09-21-2000, 05:26 PM
JB,
You set it up...and they will come!
Me too!
My motor assembly is taking forever. It seems like all the little things take an hour each. Then you got to run to the store...you know the story.
I need a new dipstick tube. Bummer. The old one doesn't fit on the new block. More stuff to add to the list.
Almost out of money too!
Got...to...get...a...job... http://www.donzi.net/ubb/eek.gif
Oh and yeah! I remember your boat. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/smile.gif
I'll bet it's coming along very nicely. Can't wait to hear your top speed stories! http://www.donzi.net/ubb/wink.gif


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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

[This message has been edited by GeneD (edited 09-21-2000).]

Jamesbon
09-21-2000, 07:03 PM
Yeah, I definetly know the routine...

It should go 95 w/the new 383 http://www.donzi.net/ubb/rolleyes.gif

GeneD
09-22-2000, 09:25 AM
Tell you what "James", if I had that GT, I would be considering a BB to make that thing reach escape velocity.
Is there some technical reason that you stuck with the SB?

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

Jamesbon
09-22-2000, 11:39 AM
Yeah, $$. Plus I don't really want to stick a big block in front of the Volvo cuz I don't have hydraulic steering. I can afford to piece together a hot set up over time, but shelling out 10-15K for engine, drive, exhaust combo at one time, just isn't realistic for me. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/frown.gif

My plan is to get the 383 in, then paint the bottom so I can run her around while I collect the following; 502 block, crank, and internals, aluminum heads, BB exhaust, Bravo drive, gimbal, bell housing, associated pumps, and trim cyls. Then I'll build the engine "in-house," re-glass the transom, re-gel coat or paint the entire boat (maybe deck off), put her back together, then run the p*ss out of her like she's used to. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

Maybe a BB 502 and external hydraulic steering on the old Volvo may suffice......we'll see. My neighbor has a RADICAL 502 in his 24 Cigarette coupled to an older Volvo. I broke the vertical shaft in his drive once, but has since been repaired. We just don't jump swells anymore. I am really surprised that his 502 doesn't twist shafts more often....I guess the old Volvo's are pretty tough though.