Replacing Trailer Bearings

[GEOO]

I replaced the bearings on one side of the trailer tonight. Everything went smoothly until I needed to remove the old bearing cups!! I ended up taking a hammer and a screw drive and tapped (banged) the cup all round the edges to get it out. What a pain. There must be an easier way to remove the cups? Any suggestions? GEOO

[BERTRAM BOY]

George,
If you have access to a lathe, you could turn a piece of steel so that it slip fits in the hole.... maybe about .010 under the size of the outside of the bearing race. That's what I did, and now I have a permanent race removal tool.
BERTRAM BOY

[BigGrizzly]

They make bearing drivers. Get a cheep set at Northern or harbour freighe. The small one is the hard one. I use heat, the hub expands more then the bearing. I do have a split driver that expands on the race and then use a slide hammer. However I prefer the heat tap option best.

Randy

[GeneD]

BG,
I think he is talking about the grease cover on the outside of the hub. They are a pain to get off sometimes.
GEOO,
I am surprised you don't have "Bearing Buddies" I find them to be very useful in many respects. For one, you can force fresh grease in there and force out the old stuff. Normally full of water anyway.

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

[RickR]

GEOO
If you get a bearing driver make sure if fits the race.

I use a drift instead of a screwdriver BUT you shouldn't hammer a race in with a drift.
The race is high carbon and may crack.

It's better use a hydraulic press.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[riesr]

Since I have worked for the Timken Company for 32 years my comments may be bias, but first never use a screw diver to pound the cup back in to the hub. My second suggestion is that since replacing the cup is a pain( the cone is easy) why not try Timken Aqua Spex Bearings (can get at any bearing distributor) that that have a patented galvanized coating that was developed for aerospace applications. They will not rust even with salt water. These are case carburized bearings made out of 8620 steel. They may cost 5 times as much as the chinese bearings (yes these are brittle since they are made from through hardened 52100 steel) you can find anywhere, but they will not leave your trailer with with a burned up hub on the side of the road and press fitting cups will not be an annual event. Also make sure you don't overthghten the lock nut. There should be some end play, the tire should rotate freely. A rule of thumb is to tighten up the lock nut and then back up one or two notches for the cotter pin. Always use lots of grease!

[RickR]

riser
I use Standard Timkins on my trailers, your right they are much better that the Chinese sets.

I tighten the bearing nut with 50'lbs while rotating the hub then back off around 90 degrees.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[PaulO]

Riesr,
That is great news. I would gladly pay a premium for bearings that do a good job of resisting corrosion. It seems those bearings coupled with bearing buddies would make a near indestructable combo. Is there an on-line source for them? I know my local guy is gonna roll his eyes when I ask him to order them.
PaulO

[riesr]

I am afraid there is no on line way to order unless you are an OEM customer. I suggest you look in the yellow pages under bearings and find someone like Bearing Distributors Inc. Have the cup and cone numbers you want to replace and ask for Timken Aqua Spex Bearings. The minute you look at them you can see the difference. They have a dull finish and look like galvanized steel. Good luch and let me know if you have any problems.

[GEOO]

Great Info!!!! Thanks.

Where can I find Timken bearings? I didn't like the looks of the Chinese ones.

Big Griz, What does the kit look like? Is it the tool with a rod in the center and a slid hammer? I looked in those catalogs?
GEOO