Freshwater Cooling

[avanti]

I have a 2000 Donzi Clssic 18 with a 350 Mag MPI and would like to install a fresh water cooling system on it. Could you give me any info on where to get it and if it will fit. Also how much is involved in installing it. All of my boating is done in salt water and I think this system would significantly increase the life of the engine. Thanks

[Forrest]

Mercury sells a kit with all of the hoses brackets, hoses, etc, designed for your engine. It will probably take you the better part of an afternoon to install it. Sen Dure sells heat exchangers, but you will probably need to still get the hoses from Mercury to hook it up. The key to the whole FWC thing is to install it prior to running you nice new engine in salt water. If you are going to go the FWC route, then don't delay, get it now while the engine is still new.

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Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 02-26-2001).]

[rayjay]

Have a question. I want to convert to freshwater cooling. Is there anything I can use to flush the block and heads on an engine that was run in the Chesapeake and the Hudson, which are brackish but nor overly salty? From what I can see the water jacket in the intake looks pretty clean which goes a long with the former owner's statement that he flushed the engine and drive out after every use. Something I have continued to do.
rayjay

[BigGrizzly]

I use Sen-Dur on all my boats. you can get them two ways whole and half systems. whole systems also cools the hedder, half just the motor. or if you like you can put the exchanger low and the surge high (like I do) or bolt the complete on the top of the engine like Merc. Onr thing I can tell you, Srn-Dur is a better made unit and much stronger and only 5pounds heavier. Merc started building there own to save money!
If you have the circulating pump and the raw water pump you will only need the tanks

Randy

[This message has been edited by BigGrizzly (edited 02-26-2001).]

[Emmo]

Do you know what you get when you mix salt water and fresh water? You still have salt water! http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

It may also be called brackish, but it still has salt.

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Emmo mailto:emmette@emmette.comemmette@emmette.com</A>

[Jamesbon]

Avanti,
FYI I used a Mercruiser heat exchanger, standard small block Chevy circulating pump, miscellaneous hoses, Stainless Marine exhaust manifolds, Stainless Marine risers, and "Jabsco" type raw water pump. If money wasn't an object, I would have opted for a complete kit, however, by piecing my set up together, I think I spent about $300. $200 for the heat exchanger, and $100 for misc. hoses, connectors, and a set of pulleys.

Raw water is pulled in from the transom via the "Jabsco" pump, then pushed into the raw water side of the exchanger, then out the exchanger into the Stainless risers and subsequently exits the risers just before the exhaust tip.

Anti-freeze is circulated through my block, heads, exhaust manifolds, intake, circulating pump, and fresh water side of the exchanger.

The most challenging part of this conversion was finding the d*mn hoses with correct bends and diameters. Also had to fabricate an aluminum mounting system for the cooling tank. (but that was the fun part http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif )

[Forrest]

Nate, If you are just running a $15.00 rebuilt water-pump for the local Discount Auto Parts store, I would highly recommend that you deep-six it for a high-performance, high-flow unit. Those stock pumps flow less water to one side than the other. I and half-way blaming it for my head overheating problem that I had late last season. I'm now running a Milodon cast-iron pump but there other ones out there that are very good, too. A hundred bucks well spent.

Emmo, glad to see that you returned.

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Forrest

[Jamesbon]

Forrest,
Good point. I took it off a Crusader 350 inboard that my neighbor so graciously gave me. I'll check the temp of each manifold next time I run her.

Nate