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View Full Version : Red paint oxidizing badly on 98



PeteL
06-24-2001, 04:57 PM
Mostly the stripe on the deck, but transom is starting to fade as well. I polish it out and it looks decent, but fades toward white w/in a week.

Marina told me it's base / clear coat and the clear is going.

Any fix for this problem other than re-paint?

Thanks,

Pete

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1998 Classic 22
Red/White
502 Mag
Bravo 1
Bone Stock

Formula Jr
06-24-2001, 08:49 PM
Penetrol

harbormaster
06-24-2001, 09:36 PM
More info that one word would be nice....

Thanks,
Scot V

Formula Jr
06-25-2001, 03:07 AM
Instruct on can that read.
Glass shine restore do it.
For fade gelcoat works.
Out of sunlight do.
Wipe on cloth with.
Wipe off excess quick cloth clean different.
Very flameable is it. caution.
Dry let 4 hours. Wax evaporate - Penetrol not, good long time.


Yoda..........Ya Ya Ya... Ya Yoda............

Seriously, you have a three year old boat thats been painted? What kind of paint?

[This message has been edited by Formula Jr (edited 06-25-2001).]

jaroot
06-25-2001, 07:19 AM
my red stripe on my 97 does the same thing... gets a white oxidization haze to it... polish and wax just make it look better but you can still see it. The difference is very noticable when you look behind the back seat and compare... the previous owner let the boat sit on the lift all summer without a full cover, just baking away in the sun. Pretty darn sure it is gelcoat... Figured i'd try some 3M compound on the buffer... if that doesn't work i'll go for the 1500 grit wet... followed by the compound... anyone else have any suggestions... never heard of Penetrol.

Ranman
06-25-2001, 08:16 AM
My red 97 has the same thing. The boat was a Lake Havasu AZ boat and sat outside in the sun. The owner prior to me had the deck stripe redone and it looks great, but the stripe on the transom and engine hatch is somewhat faded. I'm curious to hear what transpires here.

Forrest
06-25-2001, 08:45 AM
If your boat is clear coated and it's starting to crack or peal, then there isn't much you can do short of a refinish job. But if the finish is gelcoat, then try a product called New Glass II. It's not cheap - about $40 a bottle. It leaves a hard smooth finish, restores the color, and it seems to last a year or two. Penatrol, on the other hand, does work, but it seems to leave a gummy build-up on the finish.

Look below. Craig found a link where to buy New Glass II. Thanks, dude. I'm telling you guys, this stuff is the best!

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Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 06-25-2001).]

Looped
06-25-2001, 10:02 AM
You can order it directly through them:
www.newglass2.com (http://www.newglass2.com)

Craig

RickSE
06-25-2001, 10:43 AM
Same thing here. My 96 had a lot of fading on the top red stripe, original gelcoat. Last year I had the deck color sanded and polished and now it looks brand new. I now keep it waxed and stored indoor.

Sam
06-25-2001, 02:54 PM
RickS, What do you mean by "color sanded" ?

Sam

RickR
06-25-2001, 03:01 PM
To color sand use 1000 or 1500 grit wet sandpaper then polish with buffing compound. I use 3M Polishing compound then 3M Finesse

I clear coated the fadded black gelcoat on Genuine Trouble and she looks great (4+ years ago). But the gelcoat must be prepped correctly before spraying.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

Red Rocket
06-25-2001, 04:09 PM
Try Griot's Machine Polish 1, 2 or 3 depending on the extent of oxidation. http://www.griotsgarage.com

blue-z
06-25-2001, 04:23 PM
Originally posted by Formula Jr:
Penetrol
I would personally attack it with 2000 paper if you actually are going to sand. I would rather work with the water paper a little more than the compound. 2000 gives a smoother finish with less muscle and effort required. I do this with gel coat and do not have base coat clear coat boat related experience.

jaroot
06-25-2001, 07:10 PM
you can color sand clearcoat/basecoat the same as you can gelcoat. just have to be careful not to break through the clearcoat from too much sanding and buffing. clearcoat is normally only 3 to 5 THOUSANDTHS of an inch thick. How do you think they get all those show cars to look like they are wet... lot of time and elbow grease goes into it... you can start with 1500 and work up to 2000 or 2500 if you really want to get into it... hit it with a foam pad on a 1600 rpm buffer and a ultra fine compound finished off with a micro finishing compound and then finally a goooood polish and GOOOD wax applied by hand or a polishing bonnet on an orbital slow buffer... when block sanding *color sanding* use a slightly flexible flat surfaced rubber pad and wrap the paper around it... this keeps the surface flat and saves your hand from cramping up... turn your hose on a slooooooooow trickle and keep the surface wetted while you sand... *keeps all the sanded particles washed away and the paper clean* move back and forth, no circles, until the surface is completely hazed and imperfections are removed. I recommend 3M paper, usually found wherever good auto refinishing products such as PPG and DuPont are sold. When compounding with a foam or wool pad on a fast buffer you need to keep moving and avoid pressing too hard or you'll literally burn the gelcoat... and on clearcoat you'll break through to the basecoat...

happy sanding and buffing guys... body work is DEFINITELY a labor of love....

PeteL
06-26-2001, 02:28 PM
Thanks to all for your responses. I guess I need to find out if the factory gel coat was replaced with base / clear. My guess is that the marina that told me this was paint was wrong (at least they used to be a Donzi dealer). Any easy way to determine?

The boat apparently did sit for over a year uncovered.

No cracking or pealing, just the red turning white.

A friend told me to try this stuff:
http://www.marinestore.com/vertglas.html?cart=3076411086281047

Has anyone used Vertglas? Still it seems that to get heavy oxidation you have to cut the finish with wet-sanding or compound.

The newglass2 may be more of a sure thing.

I'll let everyone know which way I went and how it turns out.

Thanks again,

Pete