Diamond plate

[RickR]

How would you install diamond plate on the inside of the gunnals like this?
What would you use for trim?
What grade of aluminum and thickness would be best? 5052 5056? http://www.luminum.com/data/dalloys.html
Thanks!
http://www.donzi.net/photos/rryan40diamond.jpg

[MOP]

Something you may want to look into is the diamond plate the some of the Asian manufaturers use to dress up bilges in the trawlers. It looks like regular diamond plate but is thin maybe 30-40 thousands thick bonded to 1/4 plastic. It must be extremely light compared to the real stuff but looks great. One of the members may know where to find it.

[Dr. Dan]

wink Rick email Air 22 he did his on his 22 looks great but does take some maintenance...he travels alot and may not see this post....but he will answer an email.....

Doc
Protector of Silly Donzi Dudes :D

[RickR]

MOP
Thanks I'll look for the laminated product.

Dr Dan
I knew I had seen aluminum diamond plate in a 22 (other than 600HP's fiberglass material)

This is what I'm looking for
http://www.donzi.net/photos/rryan41air22.jpg
Now if I had Air 22's engine eek!

[Air 22]

Rick..sorry so long to relpy i've been hauling around the country @ 600mph the last few days :D
To answer your questions...I first made templates out of packing paper as it comes in 3x3 sheets is rugged enough to w/stand folding etc yet is easy to cut for precise measurements. Masking tape holds it together well.

after making templates of the area's I wanted...entire eng compt...including bildge and back seat :D i took them to my local sheetmetal fabrication shop(phone book) told them i was looking for a polished diamond-plate for my eng comp. They just happen to work on race engs for cars so this was right up their alley! The aluminum diamond plate comes in 4x8 sheets w/ varoius thickness etc. I choose the thinist type they had believe it was 1/16.(Thinner the better as it will allow you to flex it for easier install) next...they cut out the templates w/ a hand tool like butter. Make sure you lay out the correct templates port/starboard and cut accordingly. Lable the templates shinney(polished) side facing eng. Sounds silly but away from the boat it can get confusing as to what goes where etc... so lable it all when yo make the templates. wink
I used 1/8 inch stainless screws to hold into the fiberglass. The top area of the eng comp in the 22 has a nice area to attach.. 1+ inches thick right next the hull/deck. on the starboard side i used the existing holes from where the steering and cables looms/brackets run. You don't want to cover anything up that needs servicing etc. I used a screw every 18 inches for security. Make sure you only dill small holes on the bottom side(not to deep) or you might break though all the way eek! ) It's a good 2-3 inches thick below the water -line where hull meets sides... but you don't need much 1/8 to 1/2 max!
i did not use any adhesive to hold the aluminum only screws as i didn't want to trap moisture. also this allows for easier replacement if needed. no problems so far and the install was this spring. If you can take your eng out that would be preferred for easy access. The exhaust manifolds and top half of my eng were out but even then it was a tight fit w/ the side pieces. Put a good coat of wax on the diamond-plate to help w/ future cleaning. It will oxidize but very slowly. I polish 2-3 times a year w/ a aluminum metal polish(Nevr-Dull) works awsome...its worth the effort cuz nothing really looks better :p . I had lots of positive feedback from Sarasota and other events on the eng comp alone.

i have templates if you would like to barrow them from my 95 22 Classic. :)

Good luck...took me about 8+-hrs to do the job... depends on how much you want to do etc. Let me know if you need more info. Post pic's when your done wink Air 22

[MOP]

A really good post! Two great looking engine bays and great install tips.