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mrgoodbr
08-18-2000, 05:39 PM
I have an 18' 1970 with a 302 Holman-Moody/Volvo outdrive that I purchased from Donzi Marine in Florida. It has been in a fresh water lake in upstate NY since then. Everything on the boat that was original factory, except for a transmission rebuild, is still there, including the original paint. About two years ago, we changed the coil and recently I have had problems with the ballast resistor. The original finally gave up and I replaced it. The problem is that now the boat won't start unless the resistor is bypassed. The ignition is the original dual point setup and I was wondering if there is a fix or should I just go to an electronic igniton.

I hope you can help or that someone out there can help.

RickR
08-18-2000, 06:00 PM
On late model point ignitions the 12V "start" wire off the switch sends a full 12v to the points during startup. Then with the switch in the "on" position the resistor is used.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

mrgoodbr
08-18-2000, 06:27 PM
Thanks, Rick R

Walter
08-20-2000, 08:38 AM
As an owner of a '68, 302 let me tell you my boating life changed when I took my mechanic's (Don A. former race mechanic) advise to go electronic.

It made a big diference in relablity. Now with the new electronics and dual batteries the chances of actually enjoying a day on the water (and back off again) is much improved. Note I don't have a lot of posts describing my woes at sea.


Unless you just want to look at the boat, I suggest you go electronic. Good luck.


Regards,

Walter

Emmo
08-21-2000, 09:40 PM
I have a '70 18 2+3 with the HM/Volvo setup. When I bought it, it had a Mallory dual point YL marine distibutor. I had problems with it and replaced it with a Unilite conversion. Mallory makes a filter that plugs inline with the distributor that will keep you from smoking a module if your coil puts out a "dirty" signal. The boat runs great now. I bought the module and the filter from Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com). When you need a cap and rotor, go to NAPA and get them to order from their marine catalog, since shipping will kill you on these small items. You can find the entire Mallory catalog at http://www.mrgasket.com/ftp/pdf/mallory.pdf

If you ever need to refresh the engine, buy a long block from a Ford Motorsports dealer ($2,300 list). The 5.0 HO provides more torque and horsepower and is beefier than the HM ($3,500-5,000 for a rebuild, plus shipping and a 3 month wait). There are some tricks to converting the new engine because the internal balancing is (flywheel, etc.)different and the long block comes as a rear sump oil system but the results are worth it! Give me a shout if you need more info.

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Emmo mailto:emmette@emmette.comemmette@emmette.com</A>

[This message has been edited by Emmo (edited 08-21-2000).]

BigGrizzly
08-22-2000, 08:13 PM
The 1970 Holman & Moody V8's had a starter relay that had a resistor bypass post. When the key was turned to the start position it would give 12 volts of current directly to the hot post of the coil. Thats the same coil that is on my sister's 16' Donzi and on my Corsican. But those resistors are no longer available. Now they have a variable resistor instead. When I put the Unilite distributor and ProMaster coil on my boat, I had to use two resistors because they did not need the voltage that the coil for the dual point ignition needed. By the way, I got no increase in speed or power from the dual point to the electronic ignition. But I've had no trouble with either one.