Water Pump Rebuild

[Murphy]

I need to replace or rebuild the water circulating pump on my 86 SBC. I've never rebuilt a marine water pump. I know they have different components than an automotive type. Anyone done this got any tips, and also a source for parts?

Thanks,

Murph

[Murphy]

Thanks for the reply Scott. I'm looking at the belt driven water pump on the front of the engine. Your basic marine automotive-style water circulating pump. Didn't know there was any option to this. I'd like to know more about the SST.

Thanks,

Murph

[GeneD]

Now hold on one minute here...
Eliminating the circulator pump on a chevy doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
I was having an overheating problem in my 305 once. I couldn't figure it out. I was getting good flow from the drive pump, but the motor would get hot.
I traced it down to an automotive circulating pump someone had put on the motor. In fact, the corrosion was so bad, there weren't any fins left on the pump.
After getting a brand new pump from my local Merc dealer, the problem went away.
A new SST circulating pump shouldn't cost more than $100, and it is well worth it. It has brass/bronze vane pump, and SST backing plate, SST shaft and coupler. And you never have to worry about it ever again.
Bypassing the system, will remove, (and MP did talk about removing the pump entirely), the pulleys on the pump that help drive the power steering and alternator.
Though I haven't read the Stainless Marine thing about the bypass, I would think that removing and replacing the bad unit would be the easiest way to go.
My own 2 cents!!!!
Oh, and if you don't have a Merc dealer close by, NAPA should sell them. My local NAPA dealer has them in addition to other Merc parts such as gaskets!

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

[This message has been edited by GeneD (edited 01-25-2001).]

[Forrest]

Circulation pump by-pass/crossover kits such as those made by Stainless marine do work very well. An extra benifit is that they eliminate a pulley, and gives extra clearence to everyting on the front of the engine. One thing to be aware of is that unless the thermostat has at least three 3/16" holes drilled in it, the cooling water pressure in your engine will be as much as 30 psi when the thermostat is closed which can cause problems with you gaskets. The balanced type 143-degree thermostat supplied by Stainless Marine in their by-pass/crossover kits do have these holes, which may not be noticable at first glance. When it comes time to replace one of these thermostats, make sure that you either drill the replacement thermostat or purchase the now one from Stainless Marine.

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Forrest

[BigGrizzly]

My new motor has this set up for now, untill I closed coolling system it. Only problem is that most cheveys run 40 degrees hotter on the right side when run a circ pump it slows it down just a little. All of them do it so we put in a orfice to keep it even. My motor is critical because it builds heat in a hurry. normal engines arn't so bad, but its there. Another trick that hipo builders don't readally talk about

[BigGrizzly]

This is a 502 big block.

[Blewbyu]

'Poodle-when you send that pic to Geno, would you mind copy me in?
Mahalo-Jeff

[Murphy]

Other Scott -

This would make a good Tech Article. Maybe you could send some pictures to Harbor Master with details of the changeover (belt rerouting, etc. Sounds like a couple of other people could contribute as well.

Regardless, please copy me on the photo of your setup also.

Thanks,

Murph