New deck coring - done (pics)

[Jamesbon]

The first pic is the deck after we removed any and all rotten balsa core. Anywhere there was a deck fitting, the core had either rotted or disappeared. So make sure you seal the core where there's a hole.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc1deck.jpg

In the second pic, you can see the 3/4" scrimmed and scribed Diab synthetic coring material we used to replace the aging balsa. The Diab core easily formed to the contours of the deck.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc2deck.jpg

In the third pic you'll see the 1808 woven roven mat we used under and over top of the new Diab core. http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc3deck.jpg

The fourth pic illustrates the addition of new core under the dash board. Apparently the factory didn't use core under here, consequently, my dash used to have a label saying "no step." Not anymore!
http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc4deck.jpg

I also added core to the underside of the stern deck. It used to be a little flexible when stepped on.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc5deck.jpg

In the last pic, you're looking at the finished product. Well, allmost finished. Tonight we'll grind off any excess mat, then shoot with white gelcoat.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/nsc6deck.jpg

[Forrest]

What a job!

Looks good Nate!

[harbormaster]

Lookin Good Nate.

[Looped]

Nathan,

On the first picture you have 2 ribs running from side to side to keep the deck formed the way it should be, are those factory ribs or did you come up with them? This past week I have removed all of the decking parts & screws from the deck to the hull and popped the deck up with my deck having all of the balsa coring gone from it and those ribs would work out perfectly for me to bring the form back while re-coring. 36 years of weathering can really make your deck take on a new shape! :rolleyes:

Great shots you have there, I hope to be at that stage soon...
Craig

[Jamesbon]

Thanks fellas.

Craig,
As far as I know, those ribs were installed from the factory. They're also on the underside of my engine hatch.

[ThrillSeeker]

looks great cant waight to see it done!! wink

[HELLERBOY]

looking good,the end photo will be worth every bit of a 1000 words. :cool:

[HP 600SC]

Wow Nate!! Lookin good!! Can you come over and help me with the Little Cigarette?? http://www.uniquehardware.co.uk/server-smilies/contrib/blackeye/double0smile.gif
Bond......James Bond.

[clayman]

Man, I thought I had a big job, your really into that boat, looks great!
thank the Donzi gods I didn't have to split the deck-hull.
James

[RickR]

Looks GOOD!!! Is all the work interfering with your summer boating :D ?

[glen]

I have a '66 Donzi 16 I am restoring that needs the deck core replaced. One thing I have been worried about is once I remove the deck and cut out the old core, how do I keep the fiberglass skin from distorting? I am concerned that if it is twisted or tweaked and a new core bonded in, it will permanently hold that shape and not fit back on the hull. How flimsy is it when the core is removed? Any special tips for bracing the deck when working? I have also wondered how to make the balsa wood conform to the curves of the shin rather than the other way around, and I see that you scored the material you used. Can this same technique be used on balsa wood? Can you elaborate on how you cut and scored your core?

Glen

[David Ochs]

Nathan,
Nice work. Did you use epoxy or polyester resin for your lay-up?

[MOP]

Hi just curious if anyone is using the phenolic honey comb. I worked with it for a few years, quite a few back on aircraft. it is exceptionaly strong and light, must be for planes. And it contours well.

[RH]

Big nuts on the coring job! I have an unbeleiveable admiration for your efforts! That is one major undertaking! Keep up the good work. Remember, inch by inch - everthings a cinch!
RH

[Jamesbon]

Ted,
Seeing how I'm so busy, it'll be tough for me to find the time wink

RickR,
No matter what, I always find time for boating and "bikini'ing."

Glen,
We'll need to enlist the help of our Donzi family for that one. Fortunately we didn't have to remove the entire core. What we left was enough to keep the factory contours. Although, as you can see in the pics, we did have to support the deck in several places to keep the original shape. And yes, the skin is fairly flexible.

However, I removed all of the core from my hatch, and believe me, it's shape is gone. I haven't figured out what to do with that yet. Either my glass man will have a solution or I've been kicking around the idea of building a light aluminum hatch, then covering with my custom "engine hatch pad." Kinda like WA-LO.

Special tips for bracing the deck? Before you remove the core, get real familiar with the natural contours of your deck, then brace it up as best as your memory serves. Off the top of my head, GeneD and Matthew Reinhart have done a full deck core. Check the "technical" section if you haven't already.

I'm guessing that balsa core conforms to shapes due to the small size of each piece. In my case, the scrimmed and scribed coring material has a net like backing material that keeps it all together. It comes from the factory in 32'x48" pre scribed sheets. All you have to do is cut it to size with a razor knife, then round the edges for the mat to lay on.

I opted for the Diab core in lieu of the balsa, just for future "rot proofing." I believe Diab is identical to Kleglecell or Kleg (sp?).

David,
I used polyester for this step. However, the new transom consisted of epoxy resin and Space Age Materials' product Fiber Lite Ply. Again, I opted for synthetics to combat rot and water saturation.

Thanks RH! I can't take all the credit, however, I've been at my glass man's side about 80% of the time invested so far. It's been an itchy learning experience. And yes again, inch by inch is a cinch, but a whole 21 feet gives me a headache :rolleyes:

[McGary911]

Here's a thought. While the deck is still on the boat, it would seem pretty easy to make some cardboard templates of the deck contour every 18" or so. Mark where each template was taken on the deck Transfer these contours to some 2x8s that could be laid down on the ground to make a cradle to support the overturned deck. im just using 18" as an arbitrary guess. The flimsiness of the deck would dictate the needed distance. Too many cradles better than too few, for sure. Then you can do anything you want to the underside of the deck.
I've never split a hull before, but if I had to, this cradle thing would cross my mind.

Does this make any sense???

McGary

[GeneD]

Nate,
Awesome job...
Contact me ASAP...
727-804-6547.

[GEOO]

Nate,
Nice job. Makes me want to redo the X-18.