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harbormaster
08-12-2002, 05:22 PM
I thought some of you guys would find this helpful. (While Others might find this hilarious!)

To pull the outdrive (Alpha 1 Gen II)

1. Raise the outdrive to trailer position.
2. Put the shifter in forward position
3. Drain the fluid from the drive. The plug in on the forward bottom of the drive (see photo).
taking the resevoir cap off speed the draining,
4. Unhook the Speedometer pickup tube. It twists on(see photo) Lower with the trim the drive to the ground.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/speedo.jpg

5. Loosen the top 6 nuts
http://www.donzi.net/photos/upperdrivebolts.jpg

6. Pop caps off of the trim cylinder mounts and remove C-Clips
http://www.donzi.net/photos/lowerdrivebolts.jpg

7. raise a tad with the trim.

8. Remove the top 6 nuts and washers.
The drive should slip right off.

Inspection.

1. I stuck my hand into the gimbal bearing and rotated it. It made a grinding noise. Can you say new gimbal bearing? in the picture the gimbal bearing is the shiny thing in the middle hole.
Also There was traces of water on the wrong side of the shift rod. My mercruiser guy says to replace the bushing on that also. There is an replacement upgrade that should keep it from happening in the future.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/transomscot.jpg

2. I examined the U-Joints and they look like they have been replaced..
http://www.donzi.net/photos/ujoints.jpg

3. The final step is load the outdrive in my neighbor the mercruiser mechanic's truck, and then repeat the assembly process. Wasn't that fun?
Seriously i started this at 4:15 and even stopped to take photos. It is now 6:25. Piece of cake.

Greg K
08-12-2002, 06:31 PM
Just when I was thinking of replacing the lower unit's housing..or the entire lower unit...keep them coming with notes.
The lower fin on my unit is curved some prior to my ownership, and has some knicks in the leading edge from a rock that I encountered.

oldLenny
08-12-2002, 07:11 PM
Nice post! Graphically informative.

Is this a "lttle boo-boo" or a big one?

How "FAST" is(was) she with the 350 Mag?

Cuda
08-12-2002, 07:20 PM
I thought you were only removing the lower. Yes, removing the whole drive is about a 15 minute job. When you go to put it back in, be sure to have some extra hands around. The shaft is a bi&^h to try to put in. Those u joints are there for a reason. :) It took three of us to get it back in. Two for lifting, and one to put the shaft back in place. We had a little trouble with the shift lever too, but it may be different on a GenII.

tailwind
08-12-2002, 07:26 PM
Hi Scott:

Many congats on your outdrive removal!, many members would have spent over $300 to
$500.00 for the removal and re assembly. Perhaps this will form the beginning of the tech
manual, we discussed months ago. You could have been charged several 2 or 3 hours for
this service, however, having done it once, you could probably do it again in 45 minutes.
This type of technical assistance is invaluable to all members, we all need to get our digital
cameras out and document our repairs as you have done well here.

In addition Scott, you will now be able to service both the U-joints, and grease the gimball
bearings yourself - More money saved. All in all be able to keep that Merc Alpha drive going
strong from now on.

One question? The transom.jpg, doesnt look like our Donzi 18, was this from another boat?

Again Scott: very nice job, you should challenge the rest of us to provide such details for future reference.

On another note, has the Whaler sold yet? Will call tommorrow for details.

Best regards,
Randy

harbormaster
08-12-2002, 07:45 PM
Yeah Randy the transom photo was a messup. I have now fixed it. I am replacing the gimbal bearing.
The Ujoints are the new seal bearings.

The whaler has not sold yet. call tonight on my cell 832-347-8839 or the office tomorrow 281-336-3458

tailwind
08-12-2002, 07:56 PM
Hi Scott:
Thanks for the update and reply: still impressive, keep up the good works here. Am currently
back inbound and should arrive tonite. Watching the "cubs" on the monitor, got to get to the gate , more later.

Randy

Rootsy
08-13-2002, 08:02 AM
the GEN II u-joints are sealed and non servicable unless you replace em...

when you reinstall the drive, doing this by yourself is not difficult (on an alpha at least) but takes some finess... you need a block of wood to get the drive to the proper height and you want to get it close to the transom assy.. get the shaft started through the gimble and push the drive forward toward the studs gently (the drive will be wobbly).. reach around with one hand while holding the drive steady and make sure the shifter fork is in forward (straight ahead). once in forward spin the prop slowly and push the drive onto the studs as the shaft splines slide into the coupler. Make sure you grease the spines with merc spline grease also (the blue stuff). oh yeah.. use some grease or bellows adhesive to hold the water port O-ring in place... Wouldn't hurt to check motor alignment while you have the drive off either...

this takes a bit of gettin used to and be patient with it... i've always found it easier to do myself than to have 2 or 4 extra hands in the way... well of course unless it's a bravo or a trs wink

Digger
08-13-2002, 08:14 AM
good stuff there Scott! thanks for the post.

Jamie is the Bravo tougher just because of the weight? Or is there more to it than that?
thx-

McGary911
08-13-2002, 10:23 AM
Scot, Thanks for taking tht time to document this. Should be a great resource for those of us that have never pulled an alpha (I've only messed with OMCs). If you save just 1 person from staring at a drive that won't come off thinking "what the hell did i miss?" it was well worth the effort. Granted, it's not an arneson conversion, but I don't think it would be out of place in the technical section.

HyperDonzi
08-13-2002, 10:38 AM
just remember, anyone can take apart anything but putting it back together is always the hardest part. you stopped and took photos at each step, it wont be to hard.

ps. i like the avitar flames!

Rootsy
08-13-2002, 11:51 AM
ooops nother point i missed... if you've gotten all the bolts off (6) and the trim cylinders off and the speedo hose off and it is in forward and you cant get it to break free... make sure that the skeg won;t hit the ground and pick the drive up a bit and drop it... basically let it bounce... and eventually the gasket will let go... in this case i'd also make sure the engine alignment is correct and clean the splines and apply spline grease liberally... don;t slam the drive but just let it gently fall to jar itse;f free.. but watch for it to come loose, generally it'll be a gradual thing... wouldn;t want it to get away from anyone and land on any toes!

as for the bravo vs alpha... the internal designs are different and the gears, shafts and clutches will handle more torque... more steel and larger case = more weight...

RickR
08-13-2002, 02:11 PM
Digger
The cable end linkage is different on the Bravo. It is easier than a Alpha with a alligator type connection that releases and grabs automatically.

Just guessing but I'd say 50#s for a Alpha and 70#s for a Bravo wo/prop. Hanging the drive overhead makes the job go MUCH easier. Like an I beam and come-along :D
http://www.donzi.net/photos/rryan17lift.jpg

BTW Always clean up the o-rings and bellows end (I use a light coat of Hylomar on them)
When tightening the the 6 mounting nuts use a chris/cross pattern and a torque wrench.

Moody Blu'
08-13-2002, 11:32 PM
poodle you always come up with the funniest cracks! :D wink LOL

tailwind
08-14-2002, 08:06 PM
Hi Scott:

Hope you will have good news upcoming concerning your Merc Drive! In the mean time, Got a few folks over tonite in the pool, and who if anyone will remember "Blind Faith" ?

Regards,
Randy

Digger
08-14-2002, 08:53 PM
Rick, Jamie, thx-