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View Full Version : How do I tighten the front lift ring?



Boatman
08-12-2002, 07:54 AM
I tried searching the site for the answer to this one, but didn't find the answer, so here I am.

I'm using mooring whips on my 96 Sweet 16 and using the front lift ring as the attach point for the front whip.

I noticed recently that the lift ring is a bit loose (will slide around on the deck by about 1/8" side to side).

Any quick tips on how to go about properly tightening the lift hook?

I didn't have time to look closely at it before I put it away and the boat is 2 hours away at the moment - just want to be sure I'm prepared when I get there to fix it. Thanks - Brad.

Rootsy
08-12-2002, 08:23 AM
hmmm last time i managed to contort and WIGGLE my little arse up under the deck i found a small compartment at the front where the lift ring extends down to the bracket. There should be a nut on top of the bracket and one on the bottom to lock the lift ring in place. so you'll need two wrenches and some double joints...

Ranman
08-12-2002, 09:50 AM
Mine is a bit loose also. Anyone who has seen me knows I am not about to get under the deck of my 18 at 6'4" 255lbs to tighten it. Hey Jamie, you'd prolly fit under the 18, I've got a job for ya next time I see ya. Otherwise, I'll have to hire some special talent for the job.

"Oompa, Loompa, oompity doo..."

James Scott
08-12-2002, 11:06 AM
When I restored my Z-22 (since sold) I removed and replaced the bow lifting ring (repainted deck). tools needed included a #2 philips, pipe wrench; I used a 14", and a 15/16 wrench. The lifting ring was attached to the stringer system via a piece of 5/8-11 threaded rod. It sounds as though the 5/8-11 hex nuts,used as stop nuts,have backed off (at least the top one) and the supporting rod loosened. Size of rod may also be 1/2-13 but I can't imagine something that small being used to lift a boat. In that case though you would want to bring a 3/4 wrench with you.
James Scott

JP BRESCIA
08-12-2002, 11:50 AM
I have the same issue. I am sure you can tighten it, the problem is getting to it. In my most recent attempt of jamming my body into the bow of the 18 was very scary. It was past 10:00 PM and after a few attempts to get to it, I figured I would try with my arms first. Like superman trying to fly into the bow! I was about 1 foot away when I got stuck at the shoulders. I wiggled, wormed and scooted but couln't get free. I am not bothered by close spaces(I cannot spell the term for this) but my heart rate certainly soared. I was stuck for a few minutes until I was able to get some leverage with my toes up under the dash.

Suddenly, the loose lifting ring doesn't bother me anymore :D

Tom Davis
08-12-2002, 11:57 AM
Here is the problem:
The lifting eye on the 16 is a one piece design (to save money), it will lift the boat up, no problem, BUT if you put a big side load on it. The eye will move no matter how tight it is because the hole in the deck is larger than the threaded rod going through it. End of story....

Here is the solution:
Get a lifting eye assembly from Donzi for a 22. It is a two piece design that consists of a collar that screws to the deck like a grommet, and the lifting eye goes through it enabling it to take the side loads that your application demands (on a whip).

Just my .02

T-Bone (Winni Bandits)

Rootsy
08-12-2002, 12:07 PM
randy,

even for me it is a tight fit to get up in there... least in the 16. my front ring is tight it is my rear one that needs attention and thank god it is easier to get at.only reason i'll be heading to the bow anytime soon is to toss a few bags of lead shot up there to do some playing around with CG location...

Boatman
08-12-2002, 12:14 PM
I was afraid that the nut was somewhere up inside that narrow bow channel. I'm a bit claustrophopic so it'll be a nasty moment.

Boatman
08-12-2002, 12:17 PM
So if the lifting eye truly only supports vertical loads, then I guess the easy answer is to attach the whip (and mooring lines) to the bow winch cleat and save myself the hassle?

cummins
08-12-2002, 02:38 PM
My 22 has two nuts and even after barely getting back out after tightening...it still moves. Not sure if I want to make the trip again :D
Cummins

Greg
08-12-2002, 06:58 PM
I had to make that trip in my 18'. I'm 6' tall and by the time I got up in there the soles of my feet were even with the back of the dash. Just wait till the nuts on the bottom of the seat pedistals come loose, that is when the real fun begins. Do your neighbors have any skinny teenagers that could be bribed?

Last Tango
08-12-2002, 08:10 PM
Toonafish would be the perfect person to do this. She is of slim build and petite stature. Can't imagine a better person to go down below in a Classic and tighten up yer nuts. Sorry, Toona. I couldn't resist the last shot, cheap and narrow minded as it may be. But you REALLY ARE the best person for this job. I can't wait to beg you to tighten up my loose lifting ring on my 18. See you at Eufala!

MOP
08-12-2002, 09:48 PM
A nice under deck fix is to take a piece of 1/8 S/S 125 thick about 8 an inch circle, drill it in the center for the lift eye rod. Then drill 1/8 holes all over the rest, this alows the glue to get a good grip on the plate. Clean deck and plate with acetone. Bend the piece to match the deck contour, use a piece of 1/8 0r 3/16 plywood a coulpe of inches larger than the plate covered with wax paper and sprayed with PAM no stick. Bum the PAM from your wife the glue will stick to almost anything, spead the glue just a little thick. I have used PPG glue, its as strong as 5200 and not as messy. On a mooring the eye gets alot more of a beating, its getting pulled sideways not up as intended. This will spread the load and not wear out for quite awhile. The idea is to get the piece in place and centered, then chock it with just enough pressure to force the glue to spread well. Try to chock it straight up so it stays centered. Let it cure two full days. :D You need a really thin really good friend :confused:

tailwind
08-12-2002, 10:04 PM
Special wrenches - no problemo. Send a drawing or sketch etc. and it's on the way. CNC cut to your specs!

Randy