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RH
08-09-2002, 08:30 PM
Just got the Hornet out to clean and get ready for a run after 4 weeks in the building. Detailed and checked battery, went to put the outdrive down to check the lower unit fluid and the toggle light on the dash is on, hit the switch and hear the solenoid click, but no up or down movement for the outdrive. I cleaned the battery terminals, have a full charge and still no luck. I cleaned the wire connections from the tilt mechanism to the electrical blocks and still no tilt. Is my tilt motor trash or in need of a rebuild? I am not to familiar with the Volvo as I have only had Mercruiser and straight inboards in my past. Thanks for any comments or even smart remarks!
PS... Unit is a 1972 Volvo 270 outdrive with tilt and no trim.
RH

Gearhead99
08-09-2002, 08:36 PM
Check and see if you are getting power to the motor. You'll need someone to hold switch down when you do this.

If you're not getting power to motor. Check relay connections and limit switches.

MOP
08-09-2002, 09:01 PM
Did you try the UP to see if it was just a one direction problem. The solinoids can click and still not make contact, one direction contacts or new solinoid. If it is a both direction problem. Try tapping on the motor head the brushes stick when they are getting tired, if you get it to work by tapping get new brushes. The motors are nice quality, you usualy can keep them working longer than most.

mattyboy
08-09-2002, 09:08 PM
I had a similar problem, with mine it was the switch also, mine sometimes quits, I hold the switch down for about 15 secs then push it up and it works fine, I find it happens when you don't go all way up it won't go down until, it goes up till it hits the bumper. just some things to check

Matt

RH
08-09-2002, 09:42 PM
When I went to take the trailering bracket off of the outdrive, I noticed that the tilt mechanism was inactive. I then lifted the outdrive manually and the drive came down 3/4 of the way and then held. It was after this that I tried to get the tilt to work. It will click both ways, up or down. I did notice that after several tries, the light goes out and no clicking. Then I shut the key off and turn it on again, an boom it lights up again and starts clicking, but no tilt action either up or down. We tried tapping the mechanism while operating the switch with no luck. Is it possible to disassemble the unit and clean the brushes or get new ones?
RH
PS, thanks for all of the help, it is really appreciated!

tailwind
08-09-2002, 10:12 PM
Hi RH:

Hope you have your Volvo unit sorted out by now. I agree entirely with MOP with the trouble shooting aspect. These Volvo drives were and still are almost bulletproof, even considering age! From what I hear the new Volvo drives are even better. Having read your post thoroughly, I would offer the following checks be made:

1. Not having this particular wiring diagram handy, you mentioned the up and down relays "click" when the switch is moved. This would eliminate the switch. Additionally the switch & relay coils should be ok.
2. Check the relay contacts - voltage (12 volts) at the motor when the switch is activated. Or check for continuity at the contacts. If we are ok so far, we could have a possible motor problem. My first guess will be a loose or corroded ground ring terminal fitting, if you see low voltage at the motor, check this now.
3. If everything is still ok at this point, pull the motor, and change the carbon brushes, whatever is easiest for you. Bench test the motor with a battery or charger upon reassembly.
4. This should get you going, however if not, and if your brushes were worn to a point where the brush springs contacted the commutator, you may have a nick or separation in the armature commutator. If so only two options, replace the motor, or armature. You should find brushes at any reputable auto starter rebuild shop for $10-15.00, and also quotations for complete motor rebuild.
5. My guess will be a loose or corroded ground termination; however I have seen a lot and don't gamble.

An interesting note: Realizing that we may have a nick or "dead spot" in the armature commutator, Beechcraft Aircraft in their emergency procedures for landing gear extension call for pulling the gear circuit breaker prior to using the hand crank lever. Once we hit upon the good spot on the commutator the motor would start up and perhaps break the wrist of the pilot, already in a semi emergency situation. BTW , takes 50 plus turns reaching behind the right passenger seat to get the gear down in a typical Bonanza.

If you run into any problems checking it out, email me, will be in and out for the remainder of the weekend but will get back!

Cool Running
Randy
:)

RH
08-09-2002, 10:36 PM
Thanks Randy! Here are some more revelations that I have been thinking about. My brother and I thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed the engine compartment during the July 4th Holiday. I have been hitting the wooden boat scene for the past month with my woody and just got the boat out this week to get ready to run for the weekend. I thought that maybe I loosened a connection, but they all seem to be snug. I did run the boat for the weekend after the 4th without incident. For kicks today, I installed a new cap, rotor and plug wires for good measure and was getting ready for a trial launch this evening. I cleaned the contacts on the wiring connections and need to get a new test light tomorrow morning when the stores open. I have a Chris Craft service manual that I have been pouring over this eveing on the 270 drive. Nice pictures and parts diagrams, but they do not show the inside "guts" of the tilt motor. Anything special about taking that apart? It has been acting up a bit this summer, but has always worked. Thanks again for your help. As for the cranking down your landing gear, I can only imagine what a pain that was. I spent last Friday in a Turbo Arrow heading to Norhtern Minnesota to spend a day on the water with a friend who has the ultimate boathouse for his collection. Great plane ride with a good friend who is one heck of an accomplished pilot.
RH

tailwind
08-09-2002, 11:03 PM
Hi Rh:

Tubo Arrow - One sweet AC, will get up and go, alot like our DONZI's! Ever get a chance, rent the old movie "Cloud Dancer" with David Carradine. Good video, mostly Pitts Specials in a competion envirionment, still a cult film at our aerodrome. Best scene: David rescues a potential buyer drug smuggler on a CA HIWAY, after being shot down by a P-51 Mustang , good airshow coverage, brief oncore by Hoyt Axton?

Hearing now that this may be an ongoing problem, forget the test light, and get even a cheap volt ohm meter tommorrow at radio shack for $15.00. Although the connections may look ok, dont be afraid to strip the wires back and crimp a new terminal fitting on. I know, more bucks for the tool and connectors, but you will need these in the future, trust me. While you are there at radio shack, pick up some 16, 14 & 12 guage stranded hook up wire, small lengths, also butt connectors (blue).

If you have a wiring diagram, fax it to me: 601-982-3335, and will go from there. Again, my bet is on a corroded conection - I say this because of your mention of an intermittent problem which has recently surfaced. Hang in there, no worries, together we will get it sorted ASAP.

Randy

MOP
08-10-2002, 06:06 AM
Volvo uses two wire motors just reverse polarity for up & down they use the case for ground, try supplying a ground to the case of the motor, pull one bolt and and run a wire to the battery negitive. If it works you should clean up the mounting surfaces but you can run it off the new ground if that fixes the problem. Almost all DC motors on boats use the case for ground and it is often over looked, alot of good motors get rebuilt for nothing.

mattyboy
08-10-2002, 08:17 AM
the red light is only on when the drive is not fully down, it only stays on a couple of minutes then goes out if you cycle the key it will come on again, I think I have the book on the 250 shouldn't be too different for the 270, I could fax it to you on monday, sorry no fax at home
let me know

Matt

RH
08-10-2002, 08:47 AM
Thanks to all! I appreciate your help on the gremlin in my engine compartment. You guys gave me the courage to dig a little deeper than my comfort level allows! After a nights rest and contemplation, I awoke this morning and took the electric motor off of the tilt unit. Hit the switch and it spun freely. The wires are "molded" into the motor and I could not get them off. I cleaned them as best as I could. Reinstalled the motor and wham-o, thing works. Buttoned everything up and went to try it again. Same thing. Started over again and cleaned everything as best as I could and reinstalled. Works again and I put it through a few up and down cycles. I am off to the ramp to see if it will hold together and check out on my plug wire, cap and rotor job. Being a neophyte at mechanics, this is giving me a sense of accomplishment. Definetly out of my comfort zone, but everyday you learn something new about yourself. Thanks again for all of your comments, suggestions and support. It is what makes this site pretty special.
RH
PS Mattyboy, I have the outdrive manual from Volvo. Thanks again!

MOP
08-10-2002, 12:47 PM
Hi still think it may be case ground, try adding a good clean ground to one of the motors attaching bolts.

David Ochs
08-10-2002, 08:32 PM
RH, Coincidence would have it, I just went through this yesterday. I have a post last week regarding this issue. Yesterday, I cleaned every single connection on the relays, switches, and the three wires going to the motor. Also, with the unit out of the boat, it's easy to remove the cover on each of the two relays and clean those contacts. Son of a biscuit!, it works again. That is while it's on the trailer, could be another story on the launch ramp. Good luck to both of us.

Donzified
08-14-2002, 08:41 PM
Tie the drive up with your dock line (take the load off the ram). grease the ram ,run it up and down with no load,repeat,repeat.Got to keep that suff lubed.

on_plane
08-14-2002, 10:29 PM
I have the same problem with my tilt mechanisms. Motors run but drives will occasionaly ( at the beginning of the season) click like they want to go up but can get past some resistance. I take the motors off, squirt penetrating oil or the like liberally into the worm gear bearing :rolleyes: ( it is the only place i can get lube in because mine are frozen in the transon plate!) and run a few time without any load on them. Does the trick.

By the way, you can get nice rebuild kits with new brushes, etc (around 20.00) for the motors from Arco Marine in Florida. I just bought some kits for the old obsolete electrolux motors that I have.
Good Luck.