Valve selection?

[Cuda]

I bought the cam, lifters, rings, main and rod bearings today.
We disassembled the heads. They look good, and the valves don't look worn or burned at all, but there is pitting from rust on the stems, so I had better go ahead and replace them. What kind should I buy? Is any stainless ok, or something else I should look for? I'm going with the stock heads instead of getting vortec, I may do another engine with vortec later.

Forrest, I was reading an old post where you had a valve hang in the guide, did you ever pinpoint the cause of it?

[Forrest]

Cuda, those were 441 heads that had iron valve-guides, and aparently the machine shop the put the head together, set the first set of valves (genaric stainless) up too tightly in the valve guide. I have since had bronze valve-guide liners installed (highly recommended if you don't have bronze valve guides) and have never had a problem since. In that set of heads, I'm now running Summit "house brand" stainless-steel valves which are really made by Ferrea (http://www.ferrea.com/), and I would buy the same again.

[MOP]

I am far from being current on who's who on valves, you are right to ditch anything with any signs of corrosion. Springs should be very carefully inspected if re-used, myself I would use what the cam manufacturer or the more knowledgable members recommend, cheap insurance. The last thing anyone wants to do is swallow a valve.

[BUIZILLA]

I've been running strictly Ferrea's for 8 or 9 years now.

J

[Cuda]

Are those the one's that are $14.95 per valve?? eek!

[Cuda]

I just mic'd the stems on the valves. I knew Gm put 11/32 and 3/8 valve stems on their valves, but I didn't think they would mix them in the same engine! The intakes are 11/32, and the exhaust are 3/8. Is this normal? I can see the benefits to both, the smaller to be lighter, and the larger to conduct the heat away. I'm glad I checked before I bought.

[Cuda]

Forrest, what was the cost of the bronze inserts?

[Ralph Savarese]

I have a set of those heads I bushed the heads to 11/32 just for valve avalability and more flow past the stem.

[RickR]

In East Tennessee it's $100 for bronze inserts and labor.

I would also cut guides and install teflon seals; $48 labor+ $18 for seals.

[harbormaster]

Hey Cuda.
Just take it to the machine shop! A good machine shop will steer you right!

[Cuda]

I prefer to buy my parts myself. That way I know what's in it. If I go with the inserts, obviously I'll have to go to the machine shop. I'm hunting a new machine shop right now, I wasn't thrilled about how long it took them to just boil and hone the block and turn the crank. Then they told me the pistons and head were junk. I know damn well the pistons are ok, I know what a broken piston looks like. :) When I asked them what made them think the pistons were junk, they said because the rings were seized on the pistons. When I asked to see them, they said the pistons were still in the hot tank! Huh??????? Well then just when did they inspect them? And then to top it off, when I picked up the pistons, they had never been in the hot tank. Then just for kicks, they said the heads were junk too because there was a valve stuck. Well, a few squirts of PB blaster and a couple whacks with a brass drift freed that right up. They basically just wanted to sell me a new long block. This ain't my first rodeo, I rebuilt my first engine when I was 15, that was the only way my dad would let me buy a car, he wanted me to know how to fix them. That knowledge I first learned 33 years ago has saved me thousands over my lifetime. Besides, I'm rather enjoying it. :)

[Rootsy]

Cuda,

did you mic those pistons? top and bottom and at 90 degrees to see how much taper and runout there is in each one? how are the crowns? how about the wristpin holes? did you have them checked for cracks? how scuffed are the skirts? these are very important notes and measurements because you must set the piston to bore clearance when you hone the bores... This is why most if not ALL GOOD machine shops WANT the pistons in hand when they finish the bores... otherwise you risk siezing a piston when things heat up... ooooor i bet it is safe to say in this motors case... piston slap due to excessive clearance in the bore or the wristpin holes... which can result in cracked and broken skirts, rings and wristpins and holes... after all we are talking about a clearance of around .0015 - .003 inches for the bores... depending on application (automotive, marine, racing...)... on the flip side.. how are those bores? runout and taper?

i for one never reuse pistons and pins in a rebuild that is going to be run every day, hard, for a long time under tremendous loads and isn't coming apart every season to be freshened (ie a limited use racing motor)...

new pistons AND pins are cheap insurance...

yes it seems that GM likes to use 11/32 AND 3/8 valves in the marine motors atleast... my 217 castings had 11/32 in the intake and 3/8 sodium filled in the exhaust side... they use the same retainers and locks though.. the 3/8 valve tips are necked down to match the 11/32...

[Cuda]

The pistons show no damage at all, the skirts are fine with no evidence of them slapping. I'm having the pins pressed out and cleaned up. Where do you buy pistons, because the one's I've looked at sure aren't cheap.

[Rootsy]

you can get a set of kieth black / silv-o-lite hypereutectics for less than 300 bucks w/ pins and rings...

i go through PBM for most of my stuff but you can order from summit racing and jegs if you have the part number...

[GeneD]

I don't have to bother answering anything when I got Rootsy around. You go boy!
Did I tell you that I was born in Brooklyn? NYC though...in fact...it was September 16th, 19XX. Can't let you all know how old I am, might ruin my reputation. (As if I have a good one to ruin)