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RedDog
01-13-2004, 07:13 AM
I currently only have 1 battery - located axially at the starboard transom. I was thinking of turning it to a lateral (crosswise) position and adding a second battery (and switch) adjacent to the original. Is this too much battery (weight) concentrated at the stern corner? Where are the batteries and switch located on other 22s? Any suggestions? http://www.donzi.net/photos/floyd-battery.jpg

Thanks

terry
01-13-2004, 07:22 AM
RedDog,
its a good location, 22's like bow lift and that helps. Just make sure you secure it down well and put 5200 in the screw holes before you run them in to keep any water out to prevent rot.

roadtrip se
01-13-2004, 07:54 AM
Tim,

I've got dual batts from the factory.

They are staggered. One on the starboard side
in the rear and one on the port side up front.
Ironically, my twin engine boats were set up this way, too. I'm not sure it makes a big difference in weight balance, but thats the way they are.

Something else to look at are new boxes. My plastic GIL boxes started to come apart. I have a set of anondized Teague boxes now that look great and are really solid. They weren't really that much dough either.

Can't wait to see the green machine in the spring.

Todd

RedDog
01-13-2004, 07:56 AM
Thanks Ted - I was a little concerned that having both on 1 side might not be the best for balance - it sure would be the best for ease of rigging though

pmreed
01-13-2004, 03:49 PM
Tim, My setup is factory like Todd's, starboard rear, port forward. The switch is mounted starboard side on the engine compartment's forward bulkhead...easy to reach from the back seat.

Phil

RedDog
01-13-2004, 05:44 PM
Thanks for the feedback - I think I'll mount 1 each side near the stern and mount the switch on bulkhead at front of the engine compartment. Port side, I'll have to put the battery forward a little more to clear the drive trim pump. Looks like cables from the battery to the switch will have to be about 6-7 feet long. Hot to the engine - I dont know how long yet.

Would love to see some photos.

Also looking for opinions on boxes. All the little rigging upgrades I have been doing are adding up so I better go the inexpensive route for now. What about the plastic-enclosed boxes like from Tempco or Attwood ($10.00). I guess the plastic boxes could be screwed down instead of using the supplied weak plastic strap tiedown. Or should I at least go for the open frame style with the stainless rods up the sides supporting the top frame and lower tray that screws to the deck? Seems I saw this style somewhere for around $20 each.

Then, second bidge pump? I'm sure I'll have questions on this later (e.g., tee to common discharge line, need for check valves, etc)

RickR
01-13-2004, 07:59 PM
RedDog:


Or should I at least go for the open frame style with the stainless rods up the sides supporting the top frame and lower tray that screws to the deck? Seems I saw this style somewhere for around $20 each.

YEP!

RedDog
01-13-2004, 09:02 PM
Thanks Rick - what took me a hundred words to ask you were able to give me the correct answer in 1 :p

Tidbart
01-14-2004, 07:05 AM
RedDog,
Keep in mind that if you add another battery in a different location and a switch on the bulkhead that you are adding a significant amount of wire the starting circuit. The additional wire leads to additional voltage drop. This must be considered when rewiring your batteries. You may have to increase the wire size to accommodate the additional length. :D

Bob

Ranman
01-14-2004, 08:11 AM
RedDog,

I run the Gil superstocks in the 18.
http://www.gilmarine.com/products/batbox/index.html
They are not as nice as the Teague's, but they've been pretty damn durable and are reasonably priced. I would recommend these for you if your on a budget. A high-quality, middle-of-the-road battery box. As for the cables, this might sound silly, but it worked VERY well for me. I used "hi-performance", car stereo cables for the battery connections. By using something like a Monster Cable, you get a very nice cable that is extremely flexible and easy to work with. Standard battery cables are typically tough to bend and route. I used either 2 or 4 gauge cable and soldered on high quality brass ring terminal connectors for all of the connections. Also, with this cable, because of the high strand count and quality of the cable, it is well suited to handle the high current loads with minimal voltage drop. Good luck with your project.

Here's a pretty good shot of my setup.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/ROakBilgeClean02.jpg

RedDog
01-14-2004, 08:11 AM
Thanks Bob - I have since come to that same conclusion. I think now I will mount the batteries each side in the stern, the switch close to 1 of the batteries AND increase wire size. While the switch will not be as convenient as a bulkhead mount, this position should eliminate several feet of cable.

Budmann
01-14-2004, 04:30 PM
I have a 22 that looks just like Ranman. I don't care for the transom or bilge because I didn't have enough things to bolt them in with. I like jumping waves, so I wanted to make sure they were thru bolted thru the main stringers.

Just my two cents

Air 22
01-17-2004, 07:44 PM
Check out Dr.Dan's sweet set up. wink He has dual's mounted near the backseat bulkhead(fwd eng comp) one on each side.. for easy maint..etc. Awsome looking Teague teal box/cases too... :D

MOP
01-17-2004, 09:14 PM
Hey Dan I have seen your sweet rig, post a pic of your install for the guys to oggle at.

Phil

Dr. Dan
01-18-2004, 06:18 AM
:p Awe I'm blushing.....actually they are "Eddie Marine Boxes" I had them fusion coat them Teal and I wanted the super Bling Bling effect so I went with the Polished Covers over the Teal Boxes. It really cleans up the install, mine are mounted just above the Bilge Pump/Float Switch on a little shelf that was in my boat to begin with,low & between the stringers. I enlarged it a Tad and did Parallel (front to back) Dual Batteries with a Perko Switch on the Starboard Bulkhead. I have had Zero related issues with anything related to the Batteries. However, as a practicality....don't ask me for a jump...they just aren't accessible for that with the covers on...and they do take a fair amount of dexterity to play with some of the tight spaces...but the "Coolness Factor" makes up for it!........... I'll have Lizard load some pics(damn firewalls, I am an idiot)

Still Stock Power For Now.......

:cool: Doc