PDA

View Full Version : Stainless Rub Rail



boldts
12-26-2000, 08:14 PM
I am planning on ordering new stainless rub rail for my 18' Donzi. My question is, there is not a corner piece on my boat and I am wondering what tool I need to make the 90 degree bend on both rear corners since it appears that there is no seam or break in the rub rail there?

Scott Boldt

GEOO
12-26-2000, 09:27 PM
Scot, I have never tried to bend the railing. However , I saw Ship Shape Boat's show on installing a railing. They cut a piece of plywood the shape of the curve; Screwed the cut plywood down on to a larger piece of wood. Then screwed off one end of the railing and used a clamp to pull in the other end of the rail to the shaped plywood. Finish screwing off the railing. When the railing is removed it holds most of the curve. Don't forget to put silicone on the screws to help keep them from vibrating out. GEOO

Looped
12-26-2000, 10:04 PM
I saw that one with John Greviskis about a month ago. He also got into how to butt the ends together for a clean seam I believe. If your really interested in it, it is show #5002 for 10 bucks or so on the
SHIPESHAPETV.COM (http://www.shipshapetv.org/videos.htm) site.

Craig

boldts
12-26-2000, 11:08 PM
Thank-you gentlemen. I'll go to the Shipshape website and order that show on tape. I'm not sure, but I believe Taco has a installation video also. I thought maybe someone had worked with this type of rub rail and had a insiders view on how to shape the rub rail.

Scott

Scott Pearson
12-27-2000, 09:19 AM
Boldts,
I know that a Boiler maker would be able to bend them to form the hull perfect. They have some pretty cool tolls of the trade.

(NJ)Scott

BigGrizzly
12-27-2000, 09:56 AM
Been there done that. Its a real bear. Copy curves of the bow and stern complete corners and all start with the bow piece in the center, then the complete stern. When sone just fill in the middle. Its much easier to shorten a streigh piece then a prebent corner. There is less chance of a bad seam in the middle of the stern like they did to my Criterion. Oh yea make the corners slightly tighter, just a little bit.

Looped
12-27-2000, 10:32 AM
The only problem that Boldts may have with a seam on the center of the stern is he has a Barrel Back. I will be running into that same "arch" situation once I get to that point of the restoration.

Craig

Forrest
12-27-2000, 11:31 AM
The original rub railing was made of aluminum which is easy to work into any shape using a soft headed mallet. Stainless steel rub-railing would be much nicer but would be very difficult to make that arch bend on a barrel back.

------------------
Forrest

BigGrizzly
12-27-2000, 01:06 PM
After thinking awile, I would use an aluminum rail. The aluminum cups under the deck seam and makes caulking invisable and helps keep water out.

[This message has been edited by BigGrizzly (edited 12-27-2000).]

boldts
12-27-2000, 10:33 PM
Thanks again for the suggestions. Some of you have commented on the arch of a barrel back. My 69 has a straight line where the rub rail runs across the stern. The fiberglass on the deck forms the rounded look from the back. What would I look under to find a boiler maker? Sorry, but the only thing I know about boiler makers is that it is a name for the Purdue University. I guess I need to pull a section of my rub rail off and see what is underneath it. I didn't know there was any sealer under it. Fasteddie sent me a e-mail to give him a call about the rub rail. Been busy with family this week, but I want to call him before the end of the week.

Scott Boldt

BigGrizzly
12-28-2000, 08:52 AM
Bolts just saw a bender for flat stock in the Enco cat.

Scott Pearson
12-28-2000, 08:58 AM
Boldts,
Dont know where you would look for a Boiler Maker but their out there. Alum. you can bend yourself. Stainless you will need someone like a Boiler Maker.

(NJ)Scott

Rich
12-28-2000, 06:45 PM
Scott,
Talk to Chris (CMDA)
He bent the original style aluminum 'J' rail on his boat and it came out great.

------------------
Rich

CDMA
12-28-2000, 07:27 PM
I have a 18 2+3 barrelback and I replaced my rubrail with aluminum. The barrelback was so simple. I sat there for half an hour trying to figure out the best way. Finally I just started in the center and worked out alternating sides. Was easy and came out great.

Chris

The actual hard part which just takes time is getting the butts really tight.

Len
12-28-2000, 09:20 PM
What about employing the hydralic mandrels of a local muffler shop and their dies with a template? Yes, no?...

HOWARD O
12-29-2000, 01:35 AM
My brother and I did his when restoring his boat. The aluminum rail was very easy to work with and with one person holding the end up and slowly walking around, the other would fit it and tap with a hammer and piece of 2x4. It was so easy we couldn't believe it....came out perfect.
http://www.donzi.net/hull.cfm?id=164

boldts
12-29-2000, 06:54 PM
I see that many of you watch ShipShape TV. A couple of weeks ago I saw a product on a commercial between segments. It was a composite material for filling holes in fiberglass. I didn't catch the name of the product and it was being advertised as next to the real thing. Anyone know what this was or can you give me the name of a product you use for this purpose? I'm trying to make the hull last a little longer until I save the dollars for a hull restore. Thanks in advance and from all your comments on the rub railing, I'm going to buy the aluminum material rather than stainless steel.

Scott Boldt