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View Full Version : Correct Stickers for 67 Sweet Sixteen



Nat Bozarth
03-29-2002, 01:10 PM
Does anybody know how to get a hold of correct or even close stickers for a 67 Sweet Sixteen? The ones that came off the boat are not in any condition to scan. Also the correct location on the hull for them.

FASTEDDIE
03-29-2002, 01:21 PM
Call Richard Weaver @ 207-636-2133 and he will answer all your questions. :D :D :D

Moody Blu'
03-29-2002, 01:47 PM
like this?
http://www.donzi.net/photos/donzi_stickers

Nat Bozarth
03-29-2002, 02:36 PM
Thanx for the clesr pix Moody Blu, while I'm at it, what is the correct rubrail for that same 67 Sweet Sixteen. Am looking at some but can't really find the right profile and we are rather isolated here.

Thanx
Nate

alljet
03-29-2002, 04:14 PM
Richard just sent me the correct ones for my 68 Classic, and they look great. I think you want the British flag rather than the dolphin/lion for your 67. That's what Richard recommended for mine. My rub rail is a two part with rubber insert, so they may have used those back then on some of the boats.

Jim
All-Jet

RPD
03-29-2002, 07:36 PM
In 67 there was no Sweet 16.... there was a 16 Ski-Sporter.

Gearhead99
03-29-2002, 10:08 PM
My 16 was a 1965. It was called a Ski Sporter. The decals that were on it weren't original, I think.

Reason being....there were metal scripts on each side just under the rub rail that said Donzi Marine.

But, when I purchased boat it had stickers. Name, flag and dolphin.

Hope this helps

David Ochs
03-29-2002, 11:56 PM
Nat, Find yourself a West Marine catalog, look for the "Taco" aluminum rubrail. This is the exact replacement for our older boats. It's relatively easy to install. I think I bought (3) twelve footers and (1) six footer to do mine.

oldLenny
03-30-2002, 09:46 AM
David O.

Which one is "perfect" of style #1? Which width?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=64220&store_num=24&store_name=Cabinet%20%26%20Deck%20Hardware&subdept_num=843&subdept_name=Rail %20Fittings%20%26%20Rub%20Rail&class_num=910&class_name=Rub%20Rail&outlet=

David Ochs
03-30-2002, 06:21 PM
Lenny, Sorry about that. I'll be seeing my boat tomorrow(Easter), will check the width of the rail, I think it is the 1". It is the #1 style, sort of has that little lip at the bottom.

David Ochs
03-31-2002, 03:20 PM
Okay, it's confirmed, the rail is 1" wide. The moulding comes pre-drilled at 6" o.c., however the holes won't be the same distance from the end on each piece. Therefore a little thought is required on the layout. Doing the corners wasn't as difficult as I anticipated, having at least one other helper is a must.

Nat Bozarth
03-31-2002, 07:43 PM
Hi Dave O., Does the little hook at the bottom of the rail get notched out for the corners and bow?

Thanx

Nat

Scott Pearson
03-31-2002, 08:06 PM
Ok...Guys,

The Rub Rail you need for your 16 is not 1 inch. It measures 1 inch but dont be fooled. The rub rail you need is 3/4. The # is TAC A110151. Also it does not get notched out at the bow or the transom. This stuff bends pretty easy. It will bend right around the bow. Find the center first and then hold it at the center of the bow. Then bring it around to the side of the boat. DONT bend the rail yet. Screw the rail to the side of the boat and work your way foward to the bow. Once you have one side screwed in then you can bent the rail around the bow and work your way down the other side. Do the same for the back and then you can fill in the centers on each side.

Also do yourself a favor and fill the old holes with resin or West System. Your new Rubrail holes will not exactly line up with the old ones. And even though there suposta be every 6 inches it turns out that some of them are not. You will thank me later on this one.

(NJ)Scott

David Ochs
03-31-2002, 11:02 PM
Scott is right! I dug out my old receipt for the rail. It is the 3/4". What threw me is that the actual overall width is 15/16". Nice for you to call that one Scott.

RPD
04-01-2002, 06:16 AM
Scott, what happens if you don't fill the holes (since they are covered by the rail)? Just curious.

oldLenny
04-01-2002, 11:26 PM
Thanks for the facts David O and Scott P. Much appreciated! Oh, and the "hints and tips part as well".
:D

Scott Pearson
04-02-2002, 06:47 AM
RPD,
#1 You could get some water in the holes that could rot out the wood that is laminated behind the glass where the screw go through. Then in a few years your screws are walking out and your pulling the deck off to fix the problem. I used 5200 on every screw and the deck to hull joint.

#2 You can get some water into the hull...no big deal.

#3 Some screws will be close to the old holes or even in the old holes...It just tightens everything up a bit and makes for a neat job.

But then again....I do go over board on everything

(NJ)Scott

Nat Bozarth
04-02-2002, 07:39 AM
Hi Scott, many thanx to you and everyone else on answering my questions concerning rubrail, stickers etc. When you fill the old holes can you shoot some West System goo in the holes with a syringe or does the mixture have to be thicker and actually spread on the existing holes? Also if the wood laminated to the joint to accept screws is tired is there something I can coat a fresh strip of pressure treated wood with and place it on the inside of the hull so as give the screws a good bite. The deck is on very well now and might never take it off soon.

Thanx

Nate

David Ochs
04-02-2002, 08:45 AM
Nat, I found the original backing of the shoebox joint on my boat to be flimsy at best. It was thin, almost like paint stick material glassed on. Since the lid was off when I was restoring the boat, it was easy to replace, ended up laminating on (2) 3/16"x1" strips of oak. (probably overkill). The rubrail ended up being through fastened with stainless oval head machine screws with nylocs on inside, they're not coming loose. If you think of using machine screws, you might start sucking up to a skinny neighbor kid that can hold a wrench! Good luck.

Scott Pearson
04-02-2002, 06:14 PM
The filler has to be a little thick so it wont run out of the holes. I guess you can put wood behind what you have. Or even better, use Divinasel (Spelling). Or just through bolt the deck. That will work also.

Let me know how you make out.

(NJ)Scott