PDA

View Full Version : Fresh Water Flush ???



FI38ZX
07-23-2002, 10:48 PM
Bought a 99 38ZX w/ 525SC's today.

Should I have the flush kit installed???

Somebody reccomended Sea Strainers with flush kits on the top.

MOP
07-24-2002, 03:25 AM
In salt it is a must, being a marine tech for alot of years I am a bit extreme with my flushing. I have replaced the drain petcocks in the block with 1/4 turn mini bronze secocks that I found at the local hardware. I run it for about 15 minutes and dump one side of the block at a time for about 3-5 minutes. The dumping I feel removes any rust or debris that get sucked into the cooling system. I have removed cast iron risers after 5-6 years only to clean up paint and reinstall. If you are not flushing you are ready for new risers and manifolds in 4 maybe 5 pushing it, so what happening to the rest of you iron mass? If you do not dump run the engine at full temp for atleast 15-20 minutes to get all the salt out, if the thermostat is not open the block is not getting flushed.

Hardonzi
07-24-2002, 09:50 PM
I agree,I flush for 15 min. every time.I think 25 hrs. on my 180 are just flushing hrs.

Donzigo
07-24-2002, 10:04 PM
Let me be the third to offer the same advice. I flush EVERY SINGLE TIME WITHOUT FAIL, at least ten minutes each engine, with the engine at operating temperature to get the salt out. First starboard then port engine. Don't flush them together.........not enough water to do the job.

boldts
07-25-2002, 02:27 PM
Could someone tell me how to add an in-line engine flush so it can be done from say a salt water dock? Say Sarasota for instance. Can the drive intake be shut off and then the engine run on fresh tap water? Would doing this destroy the impeller in the drive? I guess the ears could be put on while the boat is in the water right? Just running ideas through the head to get around this anti-salt water thing I'm going through. :D

Bryan Tuvell 33ZX
07-25-2002, 02:55 PM
I agree, flush every time and I have a hose rig that I use my SALT AWAY with EVERY time, yeah, some say use it once in awhile, $32 will buy a gallon of consentrate.
Warm engine to temp and turn knob from rinse to salt, soap comes out, when consentrate bottle starts to turn light blue kill it.
Then take the spray bottle you made of it using your Dollar Store spray bottle and spray the rest of the external hardware and engine sompartment, spray rinse with hose, then get a beer! :D

SCOTT B, if you have a strainer a tap in is easy, if not I will let the pro's answer.
Bryan

Digger
07-25-2002, 03:22 PM
congrats on the purchase!

YES on the flush. I am also a firm believer in the additive. (I use salt-away also)

enjoy and welcome to the board-

boldts
07-25-2002, 04:34 PM
No strainer that I know of. Just the usual gas/water seperator.

Moody Blu'
07-25-2002, 09:02 PM
Go for the strainers and flushers!!!

boldts,
I figured out a viable solution for flushing IN the water.

youll need a y type valve and a connector to a water hose.

now, disconnect the hose where your outlet is for the strainer. cut about 2-4 inches off the hose and install the y type valve,take the cut piece of hose and put that back onto the strainer and proceed to clamp down the hoses. WALAH your half way done.
Now youll need some type of fitting that will connect to a garden hose and a piece of hose to go form this fitting to the y valve.

theres two ways you could do this.

1:you could get a garden hose type fitting and connect it to the remaining valve opening(on the y side) and simply hook the hose up in the engine compartment.

OR

2:you could get one of those through hull garden hose hook ups for a more profesional look....

now when you want to flush the motor shut off the valve for the drive and turn on the garden hose valve.....

follow me?
I think im gonna do #2

MOP
07-25-2002, 09:56 PM
That method is not good for anyone with a drive pump, with a drive pump just Tee into the pump line with a hose connector with a valve in the hose connector line just for safety. I have seen the caps come off when running it will over heat you. Hook up the hose open the valve turn on the hose this will send water down to you drive pump and flush your engine. I think this may help the pump a little, kind of like a back flush. I like to make these up out of standard copper stuff from the hardware store. I screw clamp the whole biz to the transom and easy to reach from the hatch which should be open. Clarify my guy stocks the real good 1/4 turn inline ball cock valves brass and S/S, the setup seems to last a long time.

boldts
07-25-2002, 10:29 PM
MOP,
I understand what you have suggested, but what about the salt water coming in through the drive intake holes. Do you use the ears to block the intakes? Wouldn't just using the ears with the tap water at a dock flush the drive, engine and exhaust along with keeping the drive from pulling in salt water? I'm looking for a way to flush my engine while attending a salt water gathering with out putting her back on the trailer. :( I can see the advantage of adding the valve for on land flushing though and probably would be a great way to get anti-freeze into the engine quickly for those sudden freeze warnings we experience here in the north. The strainer probably should be a winter project this winter also. Thanks everyone for the lesson and suggestions. :)

FI38ZX
07-25-2002, 11:42 PM
I agree, I fushed my old boat everytime. I'm buying the sea strainers with a center wing nut for easy access( Alot of eel grass on the south shore of Long Island) with fresh water flush attachment. Kindof stinks I have to lose the boat for a few days a week after I bought it.

Thanks for all the advice, I'll post some pictures in a couple of days.

FI38ZX

Bryan Tuvell 33ZX
07-26-2002, 05:21 AM
There is also a service bulletin on the correct flushing procedure, RPM etc. Very informative.
http://www.sterndrives.com/bulletins/bulletins.html
Bryan

MOP
07-26-2002, 05:21 PM
Hi the hose pressure is usually much greater than the drive pressure. I've had guys argue the point so I took the hose off my drive reved it to 2500 shot water about 6 feet. Then turned the hose without a nozzle on, it had a ton more volume and went about 10 feet but looked like about four times the amount water on the dock. My theory is you get to back flush the pump due to the extra pressure from the hose.

MOP
07-26-2002, 05:36 PM
Good info in that bulletin, I'm close with 1000RPM and 20 minutes and using my block dump valves. For those of you that want to check the bulletin its way down the bottom of the list.

fasttrucker
07-26-2002, 06:26 PM
installed a teague marine sea strainer. the mech put on a fresh water flush but my in+out marina puts the boats away after u leave.so i can only use the flush when i have boat put on wash out rack.

MOP
07-27-2002, 11:32 AM
Thats the idea to flush in the water it works fine! You will not pump any salt water to the engine when running on the hose. Try it when done open a block petcock and taste the water. I never quit flushing till I taste just fresh water which I find is about 15+ minutes so I do it for 20. I trailer so just taste whats coming out.

Tomahawk
07-28-2002, 10:40 AM
Thanks for that site info Bryan. Lot's of good stuff there.