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JP BRESCIA
08-01-2002, 05:45 PM
I developed a small gremlin this past week. I went to the ramp for launch on Sunday and suffered some ramp stress. I backed in, hopped on, started the boat, unhooked, floated off, tied up. 30 seconds :D Wife parked the truck while I warmed up. When we went to pull away, I put the lever to reverse and it stalls. Starts right back up, slowly go into reverse, stalls again. I am now having visions of being spotted by another board member and end up being the 80th ramp story posted for everybodys amusement. For the third try I went a little quicker with the lever and it worked. Backed up for a little bit... neutral... stalls again. Started up, slowly pushed the lever forward, goes right in gear, doesn't stall, fine.. Go for a ride... pull up to a dock, slow down.. move the lever into neutral position.. stalls..... :mad:
I always noticed the rpms would drop dramatically for a split second in and out of gear. I believe it is on purpose to reduce stress on the gears/clutch. I read my SELOC manual and it think my problem is cutout switch. I disconnected it to test the shifting to see if it made a difference. I tried each way twice and it worked fine with the switch disconnected. I didn't want to test it too much and break my drive. After an inspection of the switch, all connections look fine and the roller lever moves ok. By the way, I did check to make sure it was adjusted correctly to the cam lever. My guess is that the switch is bad.

For $31 I will just replacing it with new, but could it be something else? All related feedback is welcome.....

Thanks.

HP 600SC
08-01-2002, 07:03 PM
Obviously it is an Alpha.....right?
You have figured it out for sure. They
go bad from time to time.
Let us know if that fixes it.
Ted M.

JP BRESCIA
08-01-2002, 07:51 PM
Yes. It's a 1981 Alpha and from what I can tell by the sealant and paint, the switch looks original. I'll reply with the results.

RickR
08-01-2002, 07:57 PM
Before you replace the switch do a complete shift cable,throttle cable and cutout switch adjustment following the instructions in the manual.

Then fine tune with the Donzi in the water (a load makes the drive behave differently)

JP BRESCIA
08-01-2002, 08:05 PM
I checked the cam for any needed adjustment and it appeared to be ok. With the lever in full reverse and the clutch engaged, the roller was at the top of the cam. I think this is where it needs to be.

What causes some doubt in my mind is that the motor stalled going from forward into reverse. My confusion is b/c I do not know how the switch works.

JP BRESCIA
08-01-2002, 08:08 PM
test

MOP
08-01-2002, 09:04 PM
I ditto the adjustment route, also if the cable to the drive has developed to much drag it will trip the switch. Remember a switch is just a switch nothing magic either it works or it does not. Yours is working so I would go on to other checks. The cam spring tension getting weak, the cable drag, shift shaft in the drive. I think one of these are your problem. You may not be getting it fully into gear if you have drag in the system. A bit from each adds up, how old is the rest of the boats parts.

JP BRESCIA
08-02-2002, 09:57 AM
Thanks M.O.P. for the insight about the switch. I spent some time thinking about my issue and I think you are correct. Like I stated above, I do not understand how the switch works. Is the switch supposed to just break the circuit for a second, or does it break the circuit indefinately as long as the switch lever is pressed in? If it is the later, then my switch works and it is some other problem. Probably the shift cable into the drive, huh?

Back to the manual.

AVickers
08-02-2002, 10:31 AM
I had the same problem w/ my Alpha...thought it was the switch and/or adjustment, but it wasn't. Turned out to be the lower shift cable had gotten water in it over the years and the resistance between the cable core and the outer housing was engaging the interrupter before a shift would take place -- especially going into reverse -- resulting in stalling problems. Turns out that the interrupter was engaged for a longer period of time than the "blip" that was required to unload the dogs in the foot and the engine at idle couldn't run through the problem.

Rather than replace the cable (cheap bastard), I pulled the core and cleaned out the housing w/ Berryman's Spray Carb cleaner. I then lubricated the housing and core with a high-quality water-proof grease and reinstalled everything. I also replaced the bellows and the small seal around the shift lever in the foot. So far this year, the inside of this area of the foot has stayed dry and the Alpha is shifting as good as its POS design will allow...

In retrospect, you might be able to clean and lubricate the cable without pulling the drive. Motorcycle shops used to have a brake/clutch cable lubricator tool that would snap over the end of the cable such that you could shoot oil into the cable housing. If they are still made, something like this might be used on these rigs...

Forrest
08-02-2002, 10:53 AM
Yep, you got to have a smooth and freely working shift cable before you can do any adjustments.

If you don't have the correct adjustment procedure, here are some links which tells exactly how to do it:

Alpha lower shift cable adjustment (http://www.amarket.com/f520.htm)

and

Cutout switch adjustment (http://www.amarket.com/f531.htm)

In fact, here is a bunch of good info on other topics (http://www.amarket.com/help.htm) as well.

MOP
08-02-2002, 06:25 PM
There is a cheat to get a little more life out of and to unstick stiff cables. I did some heavy equipment work awhile agoooo! It was winter and I was having trouble with the cranes control cables binding. So I grabed a grease gun, I was in the middle of greasing every fitting I could find when an old timer cam over and told me I was wasting time grease gets hard in the winter. Ok then what he smiled and said use anti freeze, half heartedly I followed his istructions. He was right the cables were like new on a hot day. I have freeded up fly bridge, drive, shift nad throttes for more years than some that are reading this. Cables that almost had no motion what so ever. It is a very simple procedure that I have passed on to many guys over the years. Go to a florist shop and get a decent sized wad of the real sticky puddy they use for the displays, take the cable loose and point it upright ans secure it. Now get a glob of the putty around the cable at the top of the jacket, take a piece of thin plasic about 3 inches wide and 8 inches tall stuff that you can bend real easy. Make a bead of the sticky stuff down one of the long edges. The trick is to get the whole biz sealed to the cable with the top open, once sealed good pour anti freeze into the slim funnel you made let it sit over night it will seep down. 99% garentee your cable will free up like new. Did you ever step on anti freeze? Is it not a slick as S---!

MOP
08-02-2002, 06:29 PM
JP I believe on Merc its a one shot deal, on OMC there is a pack that studders the engine to make sure the clutch dog goes fully in.

JP BRESCIA
08-02-2002, 08:15 PM
Thanks for sharing the family secret M.O.P.. I already have the new parts I plan on replacing. I will try your method on the cable and keep as a spare.

Thanks again for your feedback. I should be finished tomorrow. :)