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View Full Version : Ehaust Instaled Prolbems .... HELP



Mark Albers
07-29-2002, 07:45 PM
I have a problem with my new exhaust set up :confused:

As you can see I have instaled the Hardin manifold
The riser is @ 1.5" off the center of the existing transom hole
and
The the new riser is @3" from the stainless M tips (they will protrude 5" in from the mounting ring on the outside)

How do I make the curve to bridge the two pieces ???

http://www.donzi.net/photos/dnzex1.jpg
http://www.donzi.net/photos/dnzex2.jpg
http://www.donzi.net/photos/dnzex3.jpg

Mark 311 :cool:
Sarasota - - - W F O (close to the factory and far from a dream)

Ralph Savarese
07-29-2002, 08:32 PM
Is there enough room to make it up with flex hose? If not One inch manifold spacers will bring you out and down the amount you need.
Ralph

Mark Albers
07-29-2002, 08:48 PM
Ralph wink

I have @3" from edge to edge
Will 4" flex hose hold its shape thru the tight bend ???

Maybe I could weld 2 pipe on a bevel to make the bridge

Thanks

Mark 311 :cool:
Sarasota - - - W F O (close to the factory and far from a dream)

Ralph Savarese
07-29-2002, 08:56 PM
BB chevy correct? If so stainless marine makes spacers up to 1" thick with the head angle that should put you in the ball park!

Ralph Savarese
07-29-2002, 09:00 PM
Well if you dont want to go with that idea plug the holes with 3" pvc pipe caps for now and re bore . Repair in the winter!

Mark Albers
07-29-2002, 09:01 PM
Ralph wink

1" spacers
Could you elaborate ???
Not sure how a spacer will make the bend ???

Thanks

mark 311 :cool:
Sarasota - - - W F O (close to the factory and far from a dream)

Ralph Savarese
07-29-2002, 09:02 PM
Spacers between the head and manifold

MOP
07-29-2002, 09:58 PM
Late comer, Mark E-mailed me these photos earlier. The problem is not side to side offset but up and down offset and the short diatance to the tail pieces. Has anyone seen any type off wedge blocks offerd by anyone to tip the tips upward? This would alow Mark to make a curve rather than an S bend which would relieve the stress on both the hose and the tail pieces. I had offered a suggestion of cutting circle blocks out of Starboard the size of the flanges then cutting them through on an angle to insert between the tips and the transom to angle the tips upward. Any IDEAS!

MOP
07-29-2002, 10:06 PM
Mark check you mail! POOR ATR WORK COMING!

Mark Albers
07-29-2002, 10:23 PM
M O P wink

another picture

http://www.donzi.net/photos/dnzex4.jpg

Mark 311 :cool:
Sarasota - - - W F O (close to the factory and far from a dream)

Donzified
07-29-2002, 10:46 PM
A straight shot is the best.Cut new holes.Use alum.plate to cover the new tips plus the over size hole untill you re-glass the old holes.

" Work sucks ...then you die"

" If it was easy every one would do it......then I would be out of a job"

" The world is mad"

Moody Blu'
07-30-2002, 02:07 AM
I use the flex hose, but DAMN its a bitch to bolt up the headers.....

new hose sucks- it wants to stay straight and not flex.., once its heated up and been on for a while it will un kink and keep its shape...

I juts installed new exhaust hose (flexsheild) and it took me 3 hours to bolt up my headers because the header bolts wouldnt line up.(because of the offset hole to the through hull tips.....

MOP
07-30-2002, 07:09 AM
Mark I was perusing some hot boat sites, saw a few where the tips came out straight through canted transoms. The flanges had to be welded to the tubes on an angle so they would come out straight. I poked around a few tip suppliers this morning but did not find any other than straight through. Maybe someone up here can recomend a company that might have them.

HP 600SC
07-30-2002, 07:17 AM
Mark, a straight shot is best.....anything else
defeats the concept of having headers in the first place. Glassing in the holes is cheap!!
cutting new holes that line up perfect is easy
and the best way to go.

Bad-Tat
07-30-2002, 04:39 PM
Stainless Marine makes tips with a 12 degree angle on the flange. CP performance also carries other brands.

Tidbart
07-30-2002, 06:19 PM
You've got one month 'til Eufala.
Bob

Gearhead99
07-30-2002, 06:50 PM
Drill new holes. Use the pieces that come out of the new holes as plugs for the old holes and glass them in. That's what I did when I ran into the same problem.

The hose won't bend that close. Also, as said before, you want a straight shot for zero restriction.

Easy job.

MOP
07-30-2002, 08:01 PM
Mark is there enough tube sticking into the boat to have a shop cut a slight vee and re weld it at a nicer angle. Looking at the pics the hardware would even go back in the same holes. All you would have to do then is to use a wood rasp to relieve the transom for it to fit back in. Does anyone really think that 4" tubes even with a slight kick upward cause back pressure.

Forrest
07-31-2002, 09:38 AM
Mark, I'm not really sure by looking at the pictures on how far off the hole line up is, but I would be inclined to use the enclosed long water-jacketed pipes sticking throught the transom with the trim rings and rubber seals, rather than trying to connect the short pipes to transom tips. If the long pipes are too long, they can be cut shorter, but in any event, be sure to use flappers. If the enclosed black-annodized trim rings don't have enough margin to cover the entire hole, you could have some other trim rings made of stainless-steel with more coverage. Remember, the water-jacketed longer pipes are better for performance and reduce reversion than the short pipes.