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Forrest
06-29-2000, 12:05 PM
OK Donzi folks, here is a question that maybe one or more you engine guys can help me with. The 'ol Magnum is getting to the point where she's going to need a fresh pair of small-block Chevrolets. Presently, both engines are two-piece rear main type (pre-1986)with TRW flat-top forged pistons, 76 cc heads (intake gasket matched), CompCams 280 Magnum cam, Weiand Stealth intake, 600 CFM vacuum secondary Holley marine carb. The port engine has a fair amount of piston slap, but runs fine, and the starboard engine recently got a good amount of salt water in the oil from a crack in the cylinder head. The head was replaced, the short block was flushed in place, and the oil was change twice before putting the boat back in the water. Now, using 20W50 Kendall GT-1, the oil pressure ain't what it used to be and the harder you run it, the lower the oil pressure drops while at the same time, the oil temp goes up; however, the water temp stays normal (150). Switching to straight SAE 50 GT-1 has helped greatly, but I know that I'm running on borrowed time. I would just like to "borrow" enough time to make through to October. After all, I have two engines and if one gives up while out in the Gulf, I can always limp back home on the other. Without a doubt, until the engines are replaced, I will have to do *much* more leisurely cruising between 2500 and 3500 RPM than running FW.

The big question is, which small block Chevrolet crate engines do you recommend that I purchase and from where. At first, I considered building a couple of SECO Performance Center (http://www.secoperformance.com/)/Wheeler MotorSport 383's like I did for my X-18 and use Vortex heads, but I have decided that I don't need any new upcoming drawn-out projects. I looked at some of the deals on the Internet(of course) at Marine Engines, Inc. (http://www.marine-engines-inc.com/gm04.htm). This crate engine looks great and the price is right, but I will need flywheels and Volvo couplers for the one-piece rear-main-seal type engine and go to electric fuel pumps. I can handle that. I would really like a Vortex 383 (I think). The only one that I was able to find is over at Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center (http://sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=465), but it is not marine, and I would have to open it up and replace the head gasket in addition to the flywheel coupler thing, and also it doesn't have the cast-in brass water-passage insert in the intake manifold, and I'm not sure about the cam. Shipping is free from these folks, though. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on which way I should go or what I should look at, please let me know. Please don't recommend anything with aluminum heads. The warm salt-water down here is murder on aluminum heads and intake manifolds . . . though I would love to have engines with the new fast-burn heads. I'm sort of looking the around $3-grand per engine range but that is not set in stone. I won't need to purchase carburetors, ignition, Stainless Marine cooling parts, etc, since I already have that stuff. I'm looking to do a quick turn-around once I get the parts and get the boat back in the dry storage. Thanks.

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Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 06-29-2000).]

PaulO
06-29-2000, 01:15 PM
I have gotten some prices and specs from SECO on building me a 383- not bad. I am now speaking to a couple of local guys to see how prices match up. The 383 GM crate motor is delayed and won't be available for at lease 4 months.
PaulO

Jamesbon
06-29-2000, 02:17 PM
Forrest,
I have a set of the Fast Burn heads on my 388 stroker. (Also added fresh water cooling...wasn't too hard) I'm curious as to how they will perform and will let you know. (of course I'm dropping my "fresh" engine off to the machinist today so he can fix the mistakes he or his crew recently made....)

When using the Vortec or Fast Burn heads, do I need to route cooling water through the two water jacket holes located in the rear of the intake manifold? (They're usually blocked off on standard small block intakes)

I would look to GM or maybe SECO for a "crate" engine. If you haven't done so already, grab a Hot Rod or Super Chevy mag....there's usually some good ads in there. I would think most machinist's would install marine head gaskets if need be....

Craig
06-29-2000, 02:41 PM
Forrest,
Didn't read the whole post as I was kind of in a hurry, but if you're looking for good price on a marine crate engine, you might want to give Chamberlain, Inc. a call 1-800-262-2929 (in Orlando). They treated me pretty good with one of those F engines you like, but I'm sure they sell others. Might be an option. Hey, any 800# is worth a call!
Craig

seano
06-29-2000, 03:47 PM
Hey Forrest,

Did you try www.dallasexportsales.com? (http://www.dallasexportsales.com?) I don't know much about them, but they do build a 383 that puts out 425hp and 460 ft/lbs of torque at 4000 rpm! Boy, that magnum sure would fly with a pair of those babies! If you talk with them, let me know what you think.

PaulO
06-29-2000, 04:00 PM
Forrest,
I have been searching for the best deal from someone who appears to really know this SBC stroker thing. I have just ordered a Long block from a place in Wash. state that has some great specs, seems to make a lot of these things, is the best price when you compare the parts, and splits the shipping. I ordered a stage2 383 and it will be ready next Friday! $2,855.00 with worldproducts s/r torquer heads installed. Here is the link:http://www.drs1.net/new_page_2.htm
PaulO

Emmo
06-30-2000, 12:16 AM
Forrest, now is the time to call Dick Mastery for a couple of 400 hp Yanmar diesels! http://206.150.187.82/ubb/biggrin.gif

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Emmo mailto:emmette@emmette.comemmette@emmette.com</A>

Forrest
06-30-2000, 10:15 AM
That's one heck of a great deal, PaulO. I take it you are getting them to install a marine head gasket during assembly. What did they hit you for shipping? Also, did you order an engine with a two-piece rear main seal (pre 1986 block)?

Seano, another deal on some serious power. By the time I down-grade to World Products iron heads that engine would be close to budget, too. Shipping will probably cheaper from Texas than from Washington . . . I' have to check.

The factory GM crate motors are starting to look expensive when you compared them to some of these deals.

I really do appreciate the great info, keep it coming.

Thanks . . . and wouldn't those Yanmars be nice. ca-ching!!
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Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 06-30-2000).]

PaulO
06-30-2000, 11:14 AM
Forrest,
Yes the price includes marine head gaskets as well as an oil pan with a welded-in windage tray. They say that there is often interference problems with the stock bolt-on tray. Also includes new valve train, timing cover, balancers, block core charge, and of course, all new components. He says the shipping charge from Wash. to NY is $300 of which I pay $150 also already included in the price I posted. Most importantly, they answered all my questions from piston type to camshaft selection to quench etc..
PaulO. If you call, ask for Mike

Forrest
06-30-2000, 01:50 PM
PaulO, I just talked to Mike. Very helpful, straight forward "no attitude" advice. He was telling me about your engine and how they split shipping . . . World Products heads, stainless valves, they check cc's, choice of pistons, they recommend a cam for your application, etc. It looks like I'll want mine built for the same 5200 RPM top-end that you are getting. Probably, the same exact build. So far, this looks like the way to go. Dyno tested if you want it.

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Forrest

Riley
07-13-2000, 03:42 PM
Hey Guys,

Very informative thread! I am considering a crate engine for my 99 18' classic. However, I am in the dark to the difference in auto and marine head gaskets. Could somebody fill me in?

Thanks!

Forrest
07-14-2000, 10:49 AM
A marine head gasket for a Chevrolet is made of stainless steel. The automotive version is made of just regular 'ol steel and will rust and leak when it comes in contact with salt or mineral rich water. Small block Fords use a composite gasket and for that reason, it really doesn't seem to matter.

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Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 07-14-2000).]

Riley
07-14-2000, 05:43 PM
Forrest,

Thanks for the info. I have one other question for you guys: What the heck is an "anti-reversion marine cam"? My dad and I built several warmed over small blocks for older wood boats, and in our ignorance always ran automotive cams, as well as head gaskets. All of our engines were fresh water only, and we never had any problems. Were we just lucky?

Thanks,

Chris Riley

AVickers
07-15-2000, 12:52 PM
Depends...

For most wooden boats, a rather mild engine is what gets installed. Automotive or marine, the cams don't have a lot of overlap, so reversion usually isn't a problem.

As for the gaskets, I've done a couple of old Chris Crafts and they both had closed cooling systems w/ heat exchangers. Running anti-freeze in the system will protect the head gaskets. In fact, automotive gaskets will work in systems that don't circulate sea water or fresh water in them...

The gaskets go away cause there are no rust inhibitors in plain water. The saving grace for the engines you built w/ automotive gaskets may be that the water level inside the engine drops when the engine isn't running and the gaskets aren't submerged. Therefore, water can get at them to cause corrosion both chemical and galvanic...

AGUESS
08-04-2000, 02:23 PM
Just received my new Ford 351 non HO marine engine from Chamberlain, Inc. Jack was great to work with and delivered on time. 1-800-262-2929 if anyone needs to check on prices, etc.

Owen
08-06-2000, 04:52 AM
Where can I get one of these?

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=943763&a=4289178&p=25684134&Sequence=0